is it ok to just sand the depresions on a deer form? because trying to pull a cape over a completely sanded form is hell. i know a taxidermist who doesnt sand at all and uses latex caulk.but im afraid of drumming.havnt had one to drum yet.
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well i scuff my forms thoroughly and define my form to an extent and yes the hide does slip over a dry form like hell but hey i put adhesive all over my forms wich in turn makes it slide over with ease and also never lets loose once it bonds that mount is there to stay.
One of the primary reasons for sanding the forms (as with ANY cant pulled from a mold) is to remove mold release agents like wax. Sanding serves double duty as it not only removes that wax but also removes the 'self skinning layer' that foams get when cast against smooth surfaces like fiberglass (like the mold). Scuffing that self skinng layer gives the paste / adhesive etc something to grip too... it provides some tooth.
If you are REAALLY opposed to sanding - contact the manufacturers of yoor selected form. Find out what release agent they use. If it IS wax, you can remove it with a solution of Tri Sodium Phosphate (TSP) and then attempt to mount without sanding it. You had better have a n adhesive that bonds well to that unsanded surface though.. definately do some tests and see how well each releases before committing to the project.
get yourself one of the cheap sand blasters, @$50 from sears...etc...it'll clean a form up in about 10 min..
Prime your form after sanding with your hide paste.
will sand that form lickety split. It will take no more time than sand blasting. and will leave far less mess to clean up.
Take a form and some cape scraps and do a test on the different methods of gluing and the different "glues". You may be surprised.
A few years ago when Black & Decker came out with their Navigator saw , I bought one and use it around my shpo , mainly cutting off skull caps on deer . When the blade starts to dull , usually after quite a few deer , I found that the long blade makes a great mannikin rougher , I can have a mannikin done in a third of the time than with sandpaper . Not throwing sales pitch for the Navigator , but it is a good all around shop saw , and I use it more than I do my bandsaw .
i wire brush the entire mannikin which doesnt take long and i always apply lots of hide paste.but just wondering if sanding impresions only would it still bond.and thanks you guys for helping.ive learned tons off of this site.
Most taxidermy suppliers sell them. Cheap and effective! Jeff F.
Forget the sanding. Just spray with Mannikin Prep.!
Seymore
with a small torch that you can get from any hardware store. Just
pass the torch over the form. It eliminates the wax and makes it
twice as easy to sand. Some spots will flare up-just blow it out.
I started this a few years ago and its great.
i rough my forms with a hand held wire brush and sometimes the stout ruffer . when I'm ready to mount i put the trash bag over the form slide the hide over the form then pull the bag back off through the mouth opening.I use Epo-Grip epoxy and putting it on prior to mounting is not an option in my opinion. hope this helps. -James
i rough my forms with a hand held wire brush and sometimes the stout ruffer . when I'm ready to mount i put the trash bag over the form slide the hide over the form then pull the bag back off through the mouth opening.I use Epo-Grip epoxy and putting it on prior to mounting is not an option in my opinion. hope this helps. -James
Nothing like toxic fumes....I either drag a sawzall blade and spray with prep...A insulation spray works fine also and is a lot cheaper...