Ok here we go, this year I want to stop my capes from slipping
I want to know if I spray the area's that are a on going problem for me being the front of the shoulder arm pit region with denature alcohol or stop rot during the skinning process and then putting them in the freezer should I be good to go.This is under the assumtion that all has been done to right prior to getting to me.
And then later salt and tan.
This is such a problem.... it does'nt always happen but for me once is to much it will ruin a good mount.
Thanks Johnny
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There's no miracle guarantee on any of this. What you MUST do is to insure that you get only fresh hides to work with. That means it didn't ride in Bubba's truck under a tarp all day before you got it. When you get it, you should be able to cape it out and freeze it right then without fear of slippage. When you thaw it out, flesh it and salt it immediately afterwards. If slippage has been a problem, the only cause of it is bacteria growth and you need to take care of THAT problem at the source: the hunter.
just such applications as you are talking about. Fresh, properly cared for hides to work with can be just about as common as the Easter Bunny, and Santa Claus. Ask the guys up in northern Ohio how many DAYS old a cape may well be before they get it from the packing companies.
This is a copy and paste from the Archives, saves me all the typing, and makes it easy to find some of the answers to your questions. Since I posted this, I have added various microphotography articles to www.TaxidermyReference.com, and www.hidetanning.net that allows a person to see with their own eyes as to what has taken place with skin and hair in different phases of tanning. If you haven't already done so, you might want to go to the WHITETAIL DESIGNER SYSTEMS website, www.whitetailsystems.com, and start with the STOP-ROT page and follow the information links from there.
If you are looking for information from which to learn, and be able to sort out facts from fiction, these leads will keep you busy for the next few hours.
If you need further assistance, send me an e-mail with a telephone number, and what hours you are available, and I will call you. These days you will have a hard time reaching me on the phone.
Glen Conley
Mr. Cherney sent me an e-mail to call attention to your plight.
If you start with the leads I am providing you, you will quickly
see that there's nothing to explaining away all the potential causes
of hair slip, shouldn't take but five or ten minutes. Yeah, right!
The info you are seeking will not be found in a nice, neat, easily
and readily understood written works. All the answers are "out there",but all the data has to be gathered into one central point from many locations, and when I say many, I mean MANY.
Use the orange button, enter Yoshan Moodley, read Salting and it's
effect on cellular material. You will need to think in terms of
what WILL occur without the salt. If you don't understand it the
first time, read it again, if you don't understand it the third time,
cross reference until you do.
Start with a dictionary. Look up lysosome and lysozyme. What you are
looking for is the ability of the enzyme lysozyme produced by the
lysosome to destruct it's own cell. If your dictionary doesn't cover
that, throw it away and go buy a new college dictionary.
Use the orange button, enter Hanging Deer, read Mr. Roof's response.
Use the orange button, enter Info On Canning Venison, pay particular
attention to Mr. Roger's information.
Use the orange button, enter Glen Conley. Go to the bottom of the page
and in Search Within Results, enter Glen Conley bacteria.
Information on Hair Slip Syndrome in Blacktail Deer.
http://www.cnr.usu.edu/deerproj/detail.cfm?pID=58
To get your mind geared towards thinking in terms of enzyme effects, check out this website.
http://users.rcn.com/jkimball.ma.ultranet/BiologyPages/E/Enzymes.html
Protein Data Bank is an absolutely awesome website. This link is for the enzyme lysozyme.
http://pdb.protein.osaka-u.ac.jp/pdb/molecules/pdb9_1.html
"Suicide Bags", lysosome, use this link.
http://projects.edtech.sandi.net/miramesa/Organelles/lyso.html
Below is a copy and paste of an e-mail between Van Dyke's Product
Specialist, Dan Moon and me. Dan had sent me photos of a doe that
was showing extreme hair slip, like hand size bare spots. Dan sent
me hair samples, which I did the microphotography thing on. What
showed up there was that the epidermis had been lifted up off the
dermal layer with epidermal cells still attached to the hair shaft.
Dan Moon is a handy guy with a camera, ruptured capillaries were
showing up in his photos. Hydraulic force was the first thing that
came to my mind. It took some digging around, but I was finally able
to locate a guy that works for Hornaday that had an impressive level
of expertise on shock waves and transfers. He had it down to
projectile types, fps speeds and yardages. After listening to his
dissertation, I am not so sure but what some of the same conditions
could not be set up by expanding broadheads. An Indiana deer in
October would have to be a bow kill to be legal.
>>> "GLEN CONLEY" <g.conley@verizon.net> 12/16/02 02:18PM >>>
Dan, before I forget it again, and things are still fresh on your mind,
I need two time frames.
1. How long after that doe was shot did the slipping show up?
Glen the shot was fired at 5:00 P.M. and I noticed slipping at 8:45 ish
and took pictures at 9:00 ish and so less than 4 hours I would say on
the doe.
The buck was less than 20 minutes, but we drug him so I noticed it
right away. If I would have looked the doe over she might have been
slipping right away also. I moved her when I first went out to skin her
and noticed there was hair in the bed of the truck, like a clump a
little bigger than what I sent to you, then I started to investigate
more.
2. How much longer before you took the photos? oops answered that one
above 15-20 minutes max
Give these kids books, and they eat 'em for lunch (Old hill folk saying).
One of the most comon causes of slippage in the brisket area is when you wash the cape in household detergents. The problem is - they are hard to rinse away completely and as the mounted cape dries the soap's residual slowly migrates into these lower areas - causing slippage. The way to stop this from happening is very simple.
Don't wash the cape before mounting - or if you insist on it - use a commercial tanning type of soap that rinses free. Or - you can wash the cape while its in the pickle. This is the safest way. Remove it from the pickle - drain it 30 minutes - then wash it - and return it to the pickle.