What must be done before slipping the horns back into the skull? Whats the best way to hold em in there, and is rope an option? I checked the archives, and coulden't find this one.
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...but I use Bondo for all horn re-attachment applications. To avoid an embarrassing situation where the horn slips off, make sure you smear the Bondo inside the horn sheath as well as on the bone core. Put a good amount of pressure when applying the Bondo so that it gets in all crevises and spaces on both surfaces, then push the horn on hard. I have never had a horn slip off after they dry doing it this way, and I've used the method on Bison, Pronghorn, all of the Texas exotics, Gemsbok, etc.
Bob Mead
I don't know how much you jugheads need to be told, Bondo isn't an adhesive. Have you ever seen a refurbished car that's been in a wreck? Guess what happens to all the Bondo when the metal underneat gets bent? Did you know that WATER will hold two pieces of glass together where you CANNOT SEPARATE THEM? Try it, but don't cheat. No sliding the glass apart, try pulling it apart. Is WATER adhesive? Well, the Bondo does just what the water does in "holding" things together.
With a longhorn, especially, the cores are only 4 to 6 inches long inside the horn cases. That much Bondo can be easily snapped when the customer picks up the horns BY the horn. So if you INSIST on using Bondo, at least nail it on the back side so the horn won't twist. Be very careful the nail isn't near the edge and you predrill the hole as the horn will split easily.
The best way to do this is with epoxy and you really need the long curing rates as they are stronger than the 5 minute type.
I'm assuming the rope you speak of is being used on a European mount to cover the gap between the skull and the horn. Sure, you can use it, but I prefer using white Apoxie to fill the void and I taper it out on to the skull so it's not so obvious.
Now don't go around calling Bob Mead a jughead. Whether you like it or not Geo, the bondo method is an acceptable method of reattaching horns to the core. And it does work. Have you ever tried to pry horns back off of the core after they have been bondoed on? Good luck being successful. Of course there are other products who works as well or even better but don't slam bondo for not being an adhesive. It does get the job done.
And if you call me a jughead too now, I'll be on the next plane to Delaware and I will bondo your head to your butt. See if you can pry it out of there. LMAO. Still love ya though.
How long does a skull have to dry before its safe to fill gaps with white bondo? What kind do you recommend?
Thanks for the replies, this was fun to read! lol.
You don't want to ask me about prying horns off the cores either. That's in the archives. It may well be the "accepted" method of reattaching horns to cores, but it will never be "acceptable". Try this. Cut a mannikin in half, but DON'T SAND IT and DON'T VACCUUM the dust off. Put a dollop of Bondo on one piece and push them together. Wait 15 minutes and stess the form. Now, take epoxy and do the same thing. Bondo is not holding your mannikin together, rather, just like on a car repair where you drill holes, it is filling the micro-cells of the open foam on both sides. When it hardens, it's not "sticking" anything together but itself, but the fact that it's infiltrated the open cells means that it has millions of tiny fingers holding it there. This is what's called "tooth" in the adhesive industry. The dust from a mannikin actually makes a good "filler" for Bondo while epoxy simply is absorbed by it.
Now Evelyn, would I lie to you?
I use Apoxie brand epoxy putty to mend skulls. The skull should be completely cleaned and dry before you start. However long that takes.
You'll have to be a little more cordial if you don't want to get on my fightin' side...I'll give you a pass on the "jughead" comment this time because you have always kept it under control with me in the past. Take a deep breath and relax.
Just because you were embarrassed when your antelope horn popped off in front of your customer doesn't mean the method doesn't work. It means you did it wrong. I've used Bondo for 16+ years without incident.
Also, why in world would someone try to reattach a mannikin without cleaning the bonding surfaces first? That proves nothing. I can reattach a cut deer head and put a 80 pound bag of cement on the top of the skull and it doesn't budge. How strong do you think they should be before the method is deemed "acceptable?" If you're worried about the joint breaking (Elk, Moose, etc), add a 2X4 through the joint into both sides and Bondo it into place, and I guarantee you it will hold.
Bob Mead
Thanks for the backup, Evelyn...
But I didn't do it "wrong". The Bondo simply disBONDED when the prong was lifte and the horn core was twisted free. I, too, did it for 20 years with no problems, but all it takes is ONCE. The last 26 years I've used epoxy and that makes me 5 years ahead of the learning curve I guess.
And as I said above, it may be the "accepted" practice, but it damned sure isn't acceptable. If I have doubts about the strength of any mannikin, I'd do what all the big studios do. I simply cut a slot and put in that 2x4 as you stated but then I REFOAM the slot. (Check Breakthrough for the issue about mounting an elephant and tell me where they used Bondo to secure any of those form pieces.) Now I'm sure you're not going to argue that Bondo is stronger than foam and a 2x4. As far as the "cleaning", that's a rather humorous response to "why in world would someone try to reattach a mannikin without cleaning the bonding surfaces first?" That's what I asked about using Bondo. This forum is rife with people doing things that you and I would find hard to believe.
I think YOUR post began with "George won't like this...". I probably wouldn't have bothered to answer had you not lit my fuse.
I have used good industrial strength adhesive before on mounts that had come loose and I had to reglue. Every now and then things just go wrong. That doesn't mean the method or the supply is faulty. You know what they say sh... happens.
Now be nice. I already have my plane ticket and it takes only three hours to get to you. I have a big bondo can on stand by as well. Don't have me come up there and prove to you that bondo can really do the job well. LMAO
And Bob is right. Who would try to bondo a mannikin together before sanding the surface first. It says so on the can. No matter what material you use, if you don't follow instructions and do the preparation right even glue won't work right.
Now back to my christmas list....... yep Geo you are still on it. For now. LOL
Using 2-part foam to bond the lumber into a mannikin is probably a better method than Bondo...I have used both with good results, but can see the benefits of foaming vs. Bondoing (cost being a major factor). I concede and will probably use it more in the future.
And for the public record, George did indeed gracefully apologize via email, reaffirming my belief that he is a man of integrity and character.
Bob Mead