Can anyone tell me where I can get the steps to use the DP process
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Then pray.
You skin the animal out and you flesh it completely. All toes have to be skinned out to the last joint, ears turned, lips split and nose cleaned out and fleshed thin. If the hide needs to be washed, use a mild soap and then rinse completely. Spin it in a washing maching to remove excess water and then towel dry the skin side. Then you rub DP into every inch of the skin and mount IMMEDIATELY. Use a GREAT glue like Epo-Grip Epoxy. Make all your adjustments right then and DON'T PULL ON THE HAIR FOR TWO WEEKS. Finish and paint as necessary.
Step two: Buy a tanning kit
Step three: Follow tanning kit instructions and tan hide.
I find Dp works best with this method.
Are you the same R that responded to my post in the Training Forum? Regardless, maybe you should take my workshop.
DP works and works fine. I do like Goerge said however I have refrigerated overnite and mounted the next day. Also I am new to this forum. Have been watching and reading for about a month. Incredible amouny of information and quite a few characters.Anyway have been doing deerheads and small mammals for five years part time and have never had a problem with DP. I do 20 or so heads a year and am retired air force and work full time as a letter carrier. This is great also I have limited computor skills but I'll figure it out, thanks for all the info.
The DP will be working long after you are. Give it a break.
I guess Chris is one of those guys that think if it does'nt work for him it won't work for anybody. I don't care which method you use, if you take the time to do it right and take pride in every mount you do you can make "Wildlife Art".
DP works. You MUST thoroughly flesh, soak blood out, and wash until clean. Apply with gloves. Note; only for skins that are in good condition. And on stuff that needs degreasing, degrease first.
I've been following these forums for a few now and was under the impression that Mr. Roof was the creator of the product Krowtann and was frustrated because people couldn't understand his instructions. Why would he endorse another product? My first post so don't be to rough on me. Joan
Mr. Roof? And you never thought you would grow up to be just like your dad.
Joan...George never took credit for developing Krowtann, but he's certainly written a book on here about his humble opinion of it,lol.
Chris is absoutely right...Throw that stuff where it belongs in the garbage.
..to count for anything. The same jerk with then turn right around and tell you that you should use "borax" on your birds or dissolve "borax" in water and denatured alcohol to preserve your fish skins.
It seems some of you've been hardwired that tanning solves all your problems, but remember one small thing as an irrefutable fact. Demistids will destroy tanned hides. Dermistids will not TOUCH a DP hide. You must retreat your mounts at least every two years to prevent dermistid infestation if you tan. You never have to treat a DP hide.
PERSONALLY, I love a tanned hide to do all my big game mounts on. I like the way it handles, stretches, and dries. BUT it will be a very cold day in a very hot place when I tan a squirrel, coon or fox. Now that's my PERSONAL take and you're entitled to yours, but if you have to hide behind your keyboard or insult someone without taking credit, you fit right alongside whale dung in my book.
I MUST SAY, I'M A BIT BAFFLED ABOUT DP. I WAS TAUGHT 11 YEARS AGO TO DO BASIC TAXIDERMY USING DP. I'VE SINCE DONE MANY MANY MOUNTS WITH NO PROBLEMS....ELK, MULEDEER, BEAVER, BOARS, OTTER, CARABOU.........
AND SOME 150 DEER WITH NOT THE SLIGHTEST PROBLEM. JUST LUCKY........
THESE 11 YEAR OLD MOUNTS LOOK AS GOOD AS WHEN THE WERE DONE. I WOULD LIKE TO INVESTIGATE TANNING FURTHER. BUT FROM MY PROSPECTIVE IT SEEMS LIKE A LOT MORE WORK, WITH ARGUABLE BENIFITS?
JUST AN OPINION!
SCOTT
I am new like Joan so dont hurt me.. I have just ordered my set of booklets to investigate taxidermy and george was kind and help me with my first deer tail.. But this subject here seem so controvesial that i had to ask WHATS DP? A form of tanning?
SKINNY
It stands for Dry Preservative. If you want to see the whole spectrum, try this:
Scroll down to the bottom of the "BEGINNERS" category
Click on SEP 2001
Scroll down to 9/6/01 and read "Wet Tan, Dry Tan, Dry Preservative". I think it's all in there.
I believe that the problem people have with DP is that they think that since it is on the hide, the hide is now indestrucible. NOT! I don't tan, everything that is WT/DT we have sent to Wildlife Gallery or Carolina Fur Dressers. I prefer dry preserve because I know what the condition of the skin is before I use it. My boss has been in the business for almost 40 years and I respect his opinions and prefernces. He swears by DP and so do I. Yes a wet tanned moose cape is a heck of alot lighter than a DP cape, but the finished results speak for themselves. In the long run it is easier and less expensive to use DP.