I have mounted 3 full size animals and have not used hide paste yet they turned out fine if it is only used to hold the hide to the form then I dont need it because the hide shrinks and holds tight. I am 16 and have not taken anny classes on taxidermy so I am preaty stuped what it the best manual or video that I can get I am looking at a vhs on ebay can somone look at it and tell me what you think thanks.
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why flesh the fat off skins and why even tan skins, why use stiching, why read the instructions, why use good glass eyes, or quality mannikins?; and on and on. At least you are looking for advise on doing taxidermy properly. Watch the video and read the book, some knowledge is better than none.
The hide will shrink as it dries, but it does that all over. Where there are depressions and indentatons in the form the skin will stretch straight across them. Instead of having creases and contours, you'll have hollow places. The skin may even crack or split at such spots. Use hide paste. It IS necessary. I'd recommend the Breakthrough manuals sold by WASCO. They cover all aspects of taxidermy(fish, mammals, deer, birds, etc.) from A-Z. We can't look at the video unless you provide the ebay item number....eh?
Are you kidding me?
Why use hide paste?
I bet you would drive north bound on a one way south bound road too. Oh, 16 years old. I see. You have this sh(t down, right? As my 3 year old would say, Duh.
16 years old his animals are already turning out fine and he dont need no stickin hide paste.
What is a good paste I am abought to order from mc kenzie.
Hey Stanley..Check out the search button over there for hide paste, as there is a lot of good info in there.
As for you others that replied above..easy on the arrogance? Like a bunch of lions ready to pounce in here for christs sake.
Kind of like taking a test after being out fishing all week.
Part of learning anything is of course making mistakes, but coming back and then saying they look ok.
Then you tell him to search.
Stanley look inthe catalogs.
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You want have to wonder where all your customers went to.You alraedy know HIDE PASTE
As stated, hide paste can really save you some headaches and problems down the line. If you're ordering from McKenzie then I'd suggest you go with the Buckeye Surpreme or Epo-Grip hide adhesive. Both are good products and will bring you good results. Hope your video is good for you. Do remember Breakthrough sells some great manuals that can really help you out along the way. Also, remember to follow instructions carefull and DON'T take shortcuts.(skipping adhesive,etc) Good Luck! Jeff F.
This is a good example what is wrong with this forum. A new beginner ask a simple questions and "THE BIG MOUTH KNOW IT ALLS" want to sling crap at the guy instead of helping. Go back and read what he stated. " 3 life size mounts" what were they ? small game ? life size whitetail ? He also stated they looked fine! how many of you guys that been doing this for years think your work is great and would not even get a score at a show. ?
Stan. As a rule you should always use hide paste regardless of the size of the mount. This will keep drumming to a minimum and will allow you to give your nmount more detail. Keep in mind the hide pastes can only do so much. It cannot work miricles if you uses to large of a form and the hide is streched to begin with. If you are wanting to find vidoes , order or contact WASCO Supply or [a supply company]. Both have instruction vidioes on a variety of game. Good luck and keep sending in the questions.
While I recognized what you were stating I chose to deal with things through a proper example rather than throwing gas on the fire!(haha) Nothing will change around here while the gas is being used as an accelerater instead of a positive energy source. Peace. Jeff F.
a break guys. This is why folks get turned off by the forum !
Stanley, don't be too disheartened by some of this "wonderful" advice from the "experts." For what it's worth, I don't use hide paste either. Have done many, many deer shoulder mounts and never had a complaint. Don't notice any difference whether paste is used or not. This is just my experience and, like anything else, each person is going to have their own preferences.
I just gotta ask,,Greg how do ya keep your ears from drumming,shrink and shifting on forms......
Please inform us on this one...
I gave sound advice(see above). No smart ass remarks or insults given either. Using hide paste is as basic as to good taxidermy as complete skinning and fleshing is. The callous replies(above) stem from the suggestion that hide paste might not be necessary to produce a high quality mount. IT IS! Stanley, you're 16 and admittedly lack a lot of taxidermy knowledge. It's to your great advantage to use materials that the "experts" use. I'm no expert (and obviously Greg F. who doesn't know enough to use hide paste isn't either), but doubting the value of using hide paste is as ignorant(no offense) as thinking you can mount a raw skin that hasn't been preserved with DP or tanned. Buckeye Supreme is as good as it gets. Weldwood floor adhesive is the same stuff, works as well, and might be cheaper. Good luck.
allows you to taxi the skin much easier. Hide paste is a neccessity except with birds. It does stop drumming, gives some slide to the hide, keeps the eye lids where they should be, allows you to work detail into your mounts, and many more things.
Greg F., How do you prep a form by scratching the surface and then get the cape to slide around and fit properly? Scratching up the form turns the surface into sandpaper. There is a proper way and an improper way of doing things. I choose the most simple method that I can that gives me the best looking results. You might want to try some hide paste and surprise yourself.
Simple latex caulk can be used for squirrel sized animals and smaller fish. Buckeye Supreme is my preference for everything else. I don't use DP.
Spread your bleeding heart all over the site and then use a banned suppliers name as an endorsement. No wonder you don't have a name or address. You may be right on some small game not needing hide paste, but realistically, everything SHOULD have it, even those vaunted "small game" animals. I love punks like you with your snide remarks about the "know it alls". If us "knowing it all" offends you, it must be because you know nothing and would rather snipe at us instead of sharing what little you know.
Stanley admitted he was stuped(sic) and was asking for info. He was given some very good information and advice without your sniveling.
all I wanted was some advice and while im typing I was wondering if calk can be use I have a mink and a squirrel that I am abought to mount and I dont have any hide past but I do have calk. Will it harden to fast and what does drumming and txiing meen thanks for all the know it alls and the nice pepole.
Any caulk will give you plenty of time to move the skin(taxiing the skin means to MOVE it.) where you want it before it cures. Drumming is the stretching of skin cross indentations like the "skin" across a real drum. It happens a LOT on the inner(front) skin on deer ears. Deer ears are concave on the front and that big inside curve MUST have a good gripping hide paste or the ear skin will stretch across the depression and there will be a hollow space under the skin. Drumming occurs on lots of other mounts(even fish) where there are depressions and indentations in the mannikin. A good hide paste HOLDS the skin in the indentations and gives the final mount it's lifelike contours. I am definitely not a know it all, but I try to be nice! Good luck...eh?
have to be carefull.