I read instructions in the archives that suggested a better(?) way than the instructions from McKenzie. Basically, he drilled up into the antler through the skull cap and bondo'd the square tubing into both the antler and skull. He then cut the antler off leaving a piece of the square tubing in both the antler and the skull.
This seems much easier than the instructions from McKenzie, but I don't see it working if the pin that is secured inside the antler has to be bent to match the antler angle (per McK's instructions).
I'm getting ready to do my first detachable elk antler mount and I'm leaning towards the first method as suggested by the user here. It seems to me that it would be much easier to get the antlers in the exact position.....as long as the rod doesn't have to be bent.
Any thoughts...suggestions?
Thanks,
W
Return to Beginners Category Menu
I do it the first way. I buy the heavy antler tubing and pins from Jonas and also throw away thier instructions. I personally think the McKenzie system sucks. I use long strand Kitty hair type bondo instead of regular bondo and I rough up the sleaves and notch the holes so the kitty hair sticks better. I also attach the antlers onto the mannikin after I have the sleaves bondoed in and then saw them off because that way you save some time and the antlers are easier to handle together when you are making sure they clear the wall. I use JB Kwik epoxie to glue the pins into one side of the sleave otherwise there is to much slack. It works great.
after drilling the hole for the square tubing....they are bondo'd in after taping the ends off with tape. My question, what keeps bondo from plugging up the hole in the antler which would prevent the pin from being inserted?
I'm having trouble picturing this! I guess I just need to think it through.
contrary to what people believe NO ONE MAKES ROUND TUBING THAT FITS SQUARE TUBING. If you use the instructions, you drill the PIN sized hole through both the skull and the antler. Then you oversize the PIN SIZED HOLE IN THE SKULL. In that hole, you install the square tubing stock that fits the machined square stock at the bottom of the pin. NEVER BONDO IT. Bondo is just too soft for big antlers. You should use a good epoxy and fiberglass chop so that it doesn't wobble the holes out. Next, you put epoxy in the antler hole and install the machined pin that has glue grooves so that there's never any slippage.
One you use the McKenzie pins and follow their directions on installation, you will have a positive fit with absolutely no lateral movement.
Now you can jury rig anything that works for you and you can "save" money, but only you can decide if it's worth your time.
the light bulb just lit up in my pee brain
I just tape the ends of the square tubing with a little duct tape and push them into the kitty hair filled round hole that is drilled in from the skull side. Kitty hair is chopped matte with resin, just already mixed. I have tried the McKenzie system and I think it takes more time and does not work as well as the Jonas pins the way I do it; BY FAR; plus the Jonas pins costs less and are stronger. When you cut the antlers off, hollow pin and all you are basicly done. I mount more elk than deer every year, and almost every elk I mount gets shipped with detachable antlers, many , many scoring over 330 which believe me is alot.