A few days back I saw someone referring to how they carved the Bondo just after it catalyzed. I should have put it there, but didn't.
If you use Bondo as a filler around your antlers (my preferred method), it is a must that you also keep Cabosil on hand. You should also keep a dispenser of plastic freezer wrap.
When you get your antlers bolted down as you want, mix your Bondo "hot" and add enough Cabosil to give it a thick mashed potatoes consistency. I use a short (6 inch) spatula and I place the Bondo on the skull and roughly shape it as I want the skull to appear - even under and around the antler burrs. As soon as I get it roughted in with the spatula, I tear off a sheet of plastic wrap and cover as much of the head surface as I can. This allows me to use my hands and form the skull area as I desire. I stretch it tight as I can without deforming my sculpting.
When it kicks off, I immediately remove the plastic. This will reveal a polished skull cap and any high spots can be easily be removed with a kitchen knife. If larger jobs need repairing, the Surfoam tool will cut through it like butter at this stage. Then you can let it set and just remove the entire skull in one piece with the Bondo hardened.
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Another little tid-bit of useful technique I had not used before. Good idea! Thanks.
..Far out!
George, how do you access the screws or bolts to remove the skull plate
from the form? At this point, arn't they covered in bondo too?
Dave
I don't usually drill the holes until after the Bondo cures. I ahve the skull cut so it sets on the manikin, BUT you always have exceptions. On skulls cut incorrectly, I mount them to the manikin and when the Bondo kicks, I take a scalpel and just cut a recessed hole for the screw removal. When I remount them and begin work on the hide, I just clay over those holes as well.
Please excuse my ignorance, but what is Cabosil?
Just better if you click that orange SEARCH icon in the left column and type "Cabosil" in the Google block.