i just attempted my first deer and it was split all the way down the back... i started sewing with 14lb fireline and a regular sewing needle it took me two hours just to get the y cut sewed the in started down the back and after my thumb was bleeding for 3 holes from the back of the needle i just gave up . was i using to small of line and needle and i was sewing a 1/4 or less between each stich any help would be great
thanks
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First off, I don't use straight needles for just that reason. I use sail needles. They are triangular cut for piercing heavy canvas. I use the semi-circular ones because I don't like pushing a needle.
This needle will have another problem, however. It will chafe the side of your finger from leveraging it through heavy hides. SO, I made me some "sewing fingers" out of doeskin. I guess you could use just the fingers off a work glove, but I wanted the elasticity of doeskin so I made my own. I have one for my right thumb, index finger and middle finger. I can sew for hours without any problems whether I'm using 14 or 30 pound doubled Fireline.
Hey John, Welcome to the wonderful world of taxidermy! Just get a six inch straight needle from McKenzie or other supplier, they have a very sharp 3-sided tip . Also, are your capes thin enough on the edges? I like to hold around 1/4 inch from antler to end of Y. Then I open up to about 3/8 all the way down. On fall/winter deer You really dont need to use a really thin thread, Hilton Eppley Forms has a really good waxed cape thread thet I use on almost every thing I Mount. Keep things simple! P.S. when you are sewing, remember to pull your stitches tight every couple of passes.
I get extra capes from a meat processor who splits them all the way. After a few marathons, I decided to sew them up off the form up to about four inches from the ears. Works much better for me.
Thin the edge enough so the needle will push through with ease. Never use the thread to cinch the cape to stretch shut. The cape should be stretched by hand to fit to make sure you don't have to pull it together by sewing. With a thin edge, you can poke the needle through with two fingers. I struggled on every cape I ever did until a judge at the show gave me this tip.
I take a very fine awl, (Pointed screw driver looking tool), and lay out the cape and match up the sides and push the awl in the skin all the way around the seam. I put them about every 1/4 to 1/2 inch matched up and down. It takes a few mins to do and then you mount it up. You can use a large carpet needle that is not sharp to then sew up the skin without risking poking yourself or having to use pliers or any force at all.
Try it, I bet you will never go back to doing the seams any other way.
I use two needles. One 4" straight glovers type needle to start the y on the left side. And One 6" straight glovers type needle on the right side of the y. The left side has about 18" of waxed sinue to make it to the end of that cut. The right side has about 4ft of waxed sinue which is long enough to make it to the end of the cape. I also use a "sewing palm" from C.S. Osborne to have a better surface to push the needle through if I need it. It also works well for gripping the thread while I pull the stitches tight.
Joe
Get a sewers palm from a place like Research Mannikins, and some good 3" curved needles. They will go right through with ease.