I'm new to taxidermy. I just started this past Dec. and have caught on quickly and do good work. I'm already getting jobs from other people with great feedback, but still have some questions. First I use a preserve on my hides and was wondering what advantages I would gain if I tanned my hides instead (and how hard and time consuming is it). Also I have thought of buying hides that I see for sale on the site but not sure what I would have to do to the hides before mounting. I always see either salted or tanned. Do I have to preserve and rehydrate a salted hide, and for the tanned hide do I have to rehydrate and just mount it. Any help would be great and thanks for your time.
Tony
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Tanned capes can be thinned better and easier than a dp cape
A tanned and properly thinned cape will also show more detail that is molded in the form.
To properly thin a tanned cape you will have to invest in a fleshing wheel. The $450 detail wheel works fine it just takes a little longer.
The big advantage in a tanned and thinned cape is the reduced amount of shrinkage around the eyes and lips.
Probably get blasted for this but I like Krowtann for in house tanning.
I don't care what some of the "pros" say
Krowtann produces a clean white cape it's easy to use ,just follow the instructions and you don't have to be a chemist to use it
is to try to tan something so you can find these answers out for yourself. Leather vs. dried skin is and always will be a personal choice. Tanning can be as easy as a brush on overnight process, no extra work, just time. It is easy. There are those who DP everything and believe that why do anything extra if you don't have to. And those who tan everything for the security of knowing that the raw skin is now stabilized forever. And some DP small critters and tan the larger game. The test are still out as to if one is all you need, and the other is better. However, history shows that tanning is far soupier for the long hall, vs. a raw biohazard that is just dried out with some powder.
When buying a salted hide, you need to rehydrate it, and may have to touch up on fleshing, wash and DP. Or if you want to tan it, rehydrate, pickle, shave if you want, neutralize and then tan with any process you want to use. If buying a tanned hide, it may be wet and frozen, then just thaw and mount. If tanned but dried, just rehydrate and mount.
Another tip here for free, when starting out, beginners are told that their work is very good by friends, family and customers. These well wishing supporters know nothing of the finer points of taxidermy and are just being nice. Be brave and take a mount to your States competition show and get a fair assessment of your abilities by a professional. Say thank you to the customers, but never let them be the judge of your quality. They will take just about anything, and there is a danger in that if you go by their words of praise, and not ever really been assessed by a pro. A pro's opinion is just one opinion; many opinions from different pros will fine-tune your quality. Then your customers will have something to brag about.
Not sure why people think spending $35 for a commercially tanned cape is a big deal.
The biggest reason I do my own tanning is it dosn't take 6-8 months to get the hide back and I won't have to worry about it getting lost or chopped up. It's done over night and I can mount the next morning. I personally like John Rhineharts Tanning Cream available from McKenzie. You don't have to pickle it, just flesh it, salt it over night, wash the salt off and tan it over night. I get unbelievable stretch and a great tan. I think Mr. T did a great job answering the rest of your questions.
Okay here it goes. Mr T. "tanning is far SOUPIER". Damb, the last thing I want is a soupy mount.LOL And "a raw bio-hazard" get real.
Tony, I did my first mount in 1975 with dp and have done many thousands since with it with 100% success. Many of these mounts are still with us today. In this 30 plus years of taxidermy I have used everything out there and still do. I use commercial tanneries for most of my african work, simply because it is to hard to do inhouse, I also have a auto tanner, that I would highly recommend if you want to do your own. But most of what I do is still DP. Simply because it works. I have never had nor dealt with a single bug in any dp'd mount. But I have dealt with dozens of insect damaged tanned mounts as well as acid rot, and hair slippage with tanning.
I get so tired of inexperinced people saying crap that they know is not true on here. Wether it is about DP or krowtann, people should find out the facts. And the facts are it all works. Each method has advantages and some disadvantages. I have had raw capes tacked on a wall last for decades, go figure, not even a bug in them. If you are having consistant problems with any method , it is you, not the method.
Yes I like dp, because if you bring me a varmit that is not rotten I "WILL" get it back to you 100% of the time. Even red fox with it's whole tail and both ears intacked. If you want it tanned we will tann it but no gurantees.
Try different methods and decide which you like to work with.
Dang, and I said I would never comment on this topic again. I am so easy.
"tanning is far soupier" Dam, the last thing I want is a soupy mount.
Anyway I just spent 20 minutes going off on this dp vs tanning thing again and my computor ate it and dang if I'm going to type it again. Just rest assured though you guys just missed out on one hell of a good rant. F%&$! computors.
%^&%$ F&^%$ ass&^$ computors. Heck it wasn't there a few minutes ago. %^&^5 Gateway, piece*& %$#@
Relax. Dont blow a gasket.
Wow you guys responded quick, Thanks. And I think I might give tanning a try for the simple reason that you can't choose the best way for you till you try all your options. Now one more question. I was looking in my catalog and I was thinking of trying either Lutan F or Krowtann. Is one better then the other or is there something better out there? Oh Mr. T I hope to go to a show here in Ohio next year for that reason. I missed this years. Does anybody know if they are good about talking to you and pointing out how to better yourself? Thanks again for the quick responses and I hope I can help someone else in the future the way you all help us beginners.
Thanks
TONY
Try them both over time, they both tan well. Krowtann is easy, Lutan needs a pickle before it, while the Krowtann has a pickle in it so to speak, not a green one though. If you are like most people, you will try several tans down the road until you land on what you like. And then you will change again. The same goes for hide paste, forms, and eyes, even tools. The State show may have a judge that will tell you in 10 minutes or less what he or she see right or wrong in your work. He or She may tell you how to do changes the next time you mount something, however they only have a few minutes to chat with you, because others need to see the judge too, so it will not be to in-depth, but enough for you to chew on. I do not know how the Ohio show operates; you should ask someone that attends the Ohio show. As far as what is {best} for beginners, do not worry about getting the best of materials until you can take the worst of materials and make a great mount. We can buy the best of materials and produce shabby work. You will eventually fall in to a slot like the rest of us, and have your own opinions on what works for you.
I too have done both and still do. I would like to see your mounts, I also live in Ohio. Maybe you could drive to my shop and Ill show you both methods. I still have my first W.T. mount,tanned with powder, besides the fact that Ive improved tons the mount still looks better than some of the crap ive seen around here! I mostly use a wet tan now,but Ill do a powder every now and then.
ill tell you what helped me most
live reference as far as realism goes
people can tell you this or that
and i dont care who they are
when you start going to competitions you start hearing people asking
what does this or that judge like
wow thats one hell of a thing
learn from all areas you can but always go back to live deer reference as far as what you are trying to achieve
p.s.look on the site www.hidetanning.net
good reading and info on tanning and other stuff
paule
Hey, thanks again guys you all were alot of help. And Todd I'm pretty busy with my full time job but if I ever get a chance I would like to come check out your shop, and I wouldn't mind your thought on my mounts. Where in OH are you located.
TONY