I have used DP and liquid tan. My question? I read were some people kill animal, skin, flesh, and dry preserve and mount. Do they not salt them? When i use DP i skin, flesh, do all spliting, and salt. Then rinse and put in solution of water, salt, borax, DP, and lysol for a few hours. Then rinse. Then tumble damp dry and rub in more DP and mount. When using DP, do you mount and do not touch till dry? Does it take awhile for hair to lock?-(When using DP)Seems like when you first get it mounted, hair comes out easy? But, after it dries, you can't pull hair out? Is DP better for bug proofing verses liquid tan? I know the tanned mount looks better, more alive. (my opinion only)But, i have great looking DP mounts that people love. no cracks around eyes or around horn burrs. (I have seen some pretty rough mounts were DP was used, but was it the DP or the mounter? Cracked eye lids and 1/2" gaps around horn burrs)But, i have seen some tanned mounts with no hair left, bugs ate them up. Sorry so many questions. Just looking for suggestions and opinions. I try to read on here everyday and have got lots of help and ideas, thanks to all. (AND PLEASE NO SLAMMING AND BASHING, JUST OPINIONS and maybe some help and answers.)
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JLT I`am no pro only been doing deer for about 3 years but here is what I do, flesh, wash in skin prep and bacteriacide then towel dry and then rub in DP and mount. then let dry for 2 to 3 weeks. as for the lysol I don`t think it is made with the chem that it once was, so I`am told it want work for killing bacteria. As for as how the deer looks I think it is the mounter.
I'm amazed that you haven't suffered significant hair loss in all the steps you take. I'm really not sure where you'd have picked some of those steps up. First and foremost is the salt. Salt is an astringent and pulls moisture from the hide. Once that happens, it's not going back in easily. Lysol is a St. Christopher's medal. It contains no products whatsoever that can't be done with EITHER borax or DP. (DP has borax in it along with talc and some other proprietary dry ingredients -mostly odorless talc) DP works by acting as an astringent (exactly just like salt). While drawing water out, it allows thoseof drying agents, like talc, to speed up the preservation.
The condition of any mount is relative to the skills of the taxidermist. You'll likely find those same problems in tanned hides. Regardless of the method used, none of them is intended as a "walk away" method. You MUST taxi the skin each and every day until it dries to the point of locking itself in. DP is notorious for having a period of loose hair. From 3 to 10 days, hair can be easily pulled from the hide, KEEP YOUR HANDS OFF. It will reverse itself and the hair will become locked in.
George, look back at my steps and tell me what you would do. I do skin, flesh, split, and salt. What would you do different after that? If using DP? Thanks JLT
I skin, wash with a mild soap, spin dry. Then I flesh it, split the lips work the cape just as if I'm ready to mount it (I am), and then DP it. I mount the animal, groom it, and then leave it alone until the hide sets.
If you are using DP, there is no need to salt. Skin, flesh, split, then DP and mount. That's it.
One caution, don't DP then freeze. If you must freeze it, leave the DP off til you are ready to put it on the form. BP
You're reply wasn't there when I looked the first time. LOL
When skinning can you use a little DP to help in pulling and getting flesh off and then roll up and freeze? Then get the form and thaw back out and go on with the mounting. What mild soap do you use?
it after using DP, you run the risk of it shrinking in the freezer. I DP'd ONCE before freezing, it never would stretch back out to the original size.
I've never had a problem fleshing that required needing it. All you need are some REALLY sharp scalpel blades. If it gets dull, toss it, and get another. They are inexpensive and I can't stand a dull blade. BP
Or even hardwood sawdust on the hide if you want to keep the skin from being so "slippery".