Submitted by Chris on 9/5/99. ( CASaqaunut@AOL.com ) 205.188.208.69
The Monster Lobster. Yesterday I bagged the big one. 26"+ from the tip of the front horns to the end of the fan on the tail, the antena's are almost 30" long. I need to preserve this big dog some how!
I need advice quick. It takes up the whole bottom shelf in the frig and my wife is not to happy.
I have already taken the meat out of the tail section, but nothing else.
Please send copy via email.
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This response submitted by frank on 9/6/99. ( basswtrout@aol.com ) 152.163.188.66
Breakthrough Magazine has a great article on how this is done. Contact them on the right issuse.
This response submitted by John Bellucci on 9/7/99. ( ArtistExpr@aol.com ) 152.163.188.226
Hello Chris,
Yes, you've got a "keeper" there. Whenever I've worked on a lobster of this size, it was not uncommon to disjoint all the larger limbs, and remove the meat. After preservation, the pieces were then reassembled, and after drying the joints are rebuilt with a scupting epoxy.
To get into the large claws, you may do well to cut an access hole on the underside of the claw, using a Dremel and a fine titanium drill bit -- the bit being used as a cutting implement here. Make the cut oval in shape, and large enough to easily remove the claw meat.
The claws can either be left open - as it is on the underside - or you can pour in a bit of urethane foam, let it rise to fill in the claw, cut it down and replace the cut-out section with Mohr's Jaw Juice as an adhesive.
Open the underside of the body cavity and the tail and remove the meat and innards from these sections, again using foam to fill-out the empty cavities. We used to fill the voids in the shells with mache', but these days urethane foam works wonders, and is lightweight! It also allows you to run wires through the foam as an aide to reattaching all the pieces.
**All of this foam "filling-out" is only done AFTER the shells are preserved!**
A good formula for preservation of the parts, is 75% Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol and 25% Glycerine. This will insure full preservation without the shells becoming brittle over time. I feel that Denatured Alcohol is too harsh in that respect.
I also, DO NOT RECOMMEND the use of Formaldehyde!
If you want to go that route, Bruce Rittel nows sells a Formaldehyde Substitute, that is non-carcenogenic ... not cancer causing ... as Formaldehyde is.
Hope this has shed some light on this issue for you. Good luck with your project!
Oh by the way ... the meat that you remove? If done carefully, you can go ahead and steam it and enjoy it with some drawn butter ... although a big guy like this may be a little tough! Enjoy! John B.
This response submitted by John Bellucci on 9/8/99. ( ) 205.188.208.135
Upon recieving an e-mail from Chris for additional information, I thought I would repeat those requests here for all.
As far as freezing the lobster ... if you are interested in trying to save the meat for consumption, it would be best to freeze it in water. Otherwise, you can wrap it in wet, white terrycloth towels, then wrap in plastic, and freeze.
As for the urethane foam ... WASCO carries the best version of this stuff. It comes in a two-part, liquid form -- Part A and Part B -- and is mixed in equal amounts. While not as sticky as that used in construction, it will adhere to any untreated surfaces. It would, therefore, do you well to apply a wax separator to the outside surfaces of the shells that are to be filled.
A good choice would be the Synlube 531, also sold by WASCO. This is a non-silicone, wax spray separator. It is sprayed on the surface a couple of times allowing it to dry between applications, and before proceeding.
Yes, the lobster in all its parts, are completely soaked in the preserving solution for at least a day or two, if not longer. This will allow for full absorption of the alcohol into the "structure" of the shells, as well as any remaining "soft-tissue."
The glycerin will be especially helpful in keeping the antennae from becoming too brittle. They may eventually need to be replaced if the lobster mount isn't protected from prying fingers ... so it's best to encase it under glass when it is finished!
This leads to a final step, after reassembly and drying, of restoring the color to the lobster. You will have to re-color the thing, there are no two ways about it! Study some live lobsters, even photograph them for reference purposes. The shells will lose color whether soaked in a preservative or if they are just dried out. The color will fade. I can guarantee you that the color has already changed from when the lobster was alive and vital! All natural colors fade upon death ... in ANY species.
The only other thing I can suggest is to find the Leon Pray book: "Taxidermy" as this has an illustration of how to prop-up certain parts of the lobster mount as it dries.
If allowed to dry on a flat surface, all you really need to do is make sure: the tail section has a gentle curve or "arc" to it, and that the side legs are placed in the proper position. Again, photos of live lobsters are invaluable for this.
Index cards, bent at the proper angle, and placed under the legs and the claws, are a real simple but effective way of propping these parts up until they dry. Make sure to leave it undisturbed until it does dry, and check it every day -- making any necessary adjustments -- until it is dry.
When it is dry, and before it is painted, seal the entire lobster with Polytranspar Fungicidal Sealer, available from WASCO. It comes in an aerosol can, and is applied in several light coats. It will not only seal the shells, but will also act as a primer for the painting steps.
This response submitted by John C on 9/8/99. ( ) 204.180.103.77
What about injecting the feelers and legs with INJECT A-CAST? We use this stuff on DUCKS and other birds. Would it not work on legs and feelers, a small wire could be ran into the feelers for reinforcement. Just a idea that jumped at me, WHAT DO YOU THINK? John C
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