After Care of A Mount

Submitted by Chad on 10/26/99. ( )

As most of you may know by now I am new to this. Just been at it for a few month. But now I got something different to ask. I have just had a few customers so far and they are asking me about what they should do to take care of there mounts after they get them home. I tell them the basic things they should know. I tell them not to clean then hide with anything wet and wipe down the antlers with a damp cloth to remove dust and if needed use a Q-tip to carefully dust and clean the eyes and most of all BE CAREFUL. Anyway, I was thinking of making up a pamlet to give to my custmors that would tell then what to and what not to do in order to take care of there mounts. Does anyone do this already? and what all would be good to put in this pamlet for the customers?


Chad (

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Hair Sheen or Protex Mt Care

This response submitted by Mark on 10/26/99. ( )


You or they can take either Protex Mt Care or some Hair sheen
and wipe the entire mount down even the antlers, after they
either blow or vaccume the dust off the mount first. Then
apply one of these to help clean and recondition the mount.


"Lemon Pledge" ... or the No-Name, Store Brand

This response submitted by John Bellucci on 10/27/99. ( )

Hi Chad,

I'll reprint here, an answer from a question under "Gameheads" that involved restoring the luster to antlers after boiling. It also dealt with using this same product in routine cleaning. This should serve you well in your question here.

What I like to use to "brighten" and restore the luster to deer, elk, caribou, moose, or any antlers, is the Kroger (area supermarket) brand of Lemon Pledge. The store brands tend not to have as much of the wax ingredient as the name brands, making them perfect for our needs.

Yes, after washing off the blood and dirt from the antlers they can appear dull. I have found that a lemon-oil furniture spray makes antlers looks absolutely perfect! And the aroma is not objectionable at all! In fact, it is rather pleasant :)

After the skull plate has been cut and trimmed and properly fitted into place, but BEFORE actually mounting them onto the headform, give the antlers a once over with the furniture spray. Simply spray them down, and wipe off the spray with a clean white terrycloth auto detailing towel. Give them a little buffing to boot!

**I also take the use of the lemon-oil furniture spray one step further. The last phase in finishing, is to lightly spritz the hair of the mount with the spray, and then wipe it off the hair, in the direction the hair runs ... with the grain. This is next followed by doing the same to the antlers.**

This is also the weekly regimen I recommend to all my clients when they take their mount home ... ESPECIALLY if the mount will hang in a smokers' environment.

I like to explain to them, treat it like a piece of fine furniture. Clean it regularly by removing the dust in this manner, and there will be no serious problems with keeping a mount looking new for many, many years to come. They always appreciate this advice. It lets them know you care about the mount even after it leaves your studio.

Give this method a try. It's quick, clean, pleasant, and produces superior results.

I always explain to a client, if dust is allowed to build up on a mount, the layer of dust will not only dull the appearance of the mount, but it can also eventually draw moisture to the mount, thus beginning a slow deterioration of the trophy animal. This is something one definitely wants to avoid!

This kind of dust removal is first done using the dusting brush attachment used on the end of the cleaning wand of a vacuum cleaner. Vacuum with the direction of the hair, and DO NOT press the brush down hard on the surface of the mount! You want to remove the dust ... not drive it down into the hair or fur.

In short-haired mammal mounts such as the deer and antelope families as well as the big cats, you can follow this with the lemon-oil furniture spray treatment to further remove any traces of dust, and to impart a luster to the hair or fur.

Longer-haired mammals, with a deep and/or "fluffy" coat of fur like wolves, bears, and the manes of African lions, need to be vacuumed first, then gently and thoroughly brushed, re-vacuumed, and brushed again.

The furniture spray can now be used by spraying it onto a clean terry-cloth towel, and rubbing the long hairs between the towel ... much as one would when drying their own hair after washing. This is again followed by brushing and grooming the hair back into a correct hair-pattern.

Open mouths on mammal mounts can be "dusted" using those cans of compresed air made for air-dusting cameras and computers! Don't forget to dust out the mouths when you're cleaning ... they won't look wet for long otherwise!

As for the eyes ... a light squirt of either "Windex", or a glass lens cleaner applied onto a Q-tip will work. NEVER apply the liquid to the eyes themselves, as this could possibly soak into the surrounding hide to cause other problems.

In some cases a Q-tip is not the best choice, as the cotton fibers can be pulled free from any uneven or textured eyelid work. In these cases, I prefer using those little sponge-tipped eye makeup applicators the ladies use on their upper eyelids. These work great! And they leave behind no fibrous residue.

Remember ... just wiping down a mount with a dry cloth, will only push the dust down into the hairs and not really remove it. This cleaning regimen is what I recommend to all my clients, and is what I use to clean my own mounts.

Best to all ... John B.


This response submitted by Shepard Humphries on 5/11/00. ( )

I sometimes cringe when I learn how some mounts are mistreated by people with wonderful intentions. Professional mount cleaning is really worth what it costs!

an alternative oppinion -

This response submitted by Patrick on 7/7/00. ( )

Dear Chad,
I hope I am not too late in getting you this information! I invite you to visit our website and our product which was exclusivly designed for three years, for the use of cleaning Taxidermy Mounts Safely and effectively, Beware of the copy chemicals on the market today ( oil and acid based chemicals) Oil causes more dirt, smoke and you name it to stick to the mount, and acid, well you know what acid does, bleaches and burns the mount.These bases are found in furniture polish and other recommended ways of cleaning Taxidery Mounts, which is not good.
Seybrite Cleaner and Seybrite Sheen & Shield are formulated of a water soluable solution ( Which means water generates the chemical reaction to cause the cleaner to clean so well and once air dry can not be reactivated.
Seybrite Sheen & Shield Has no Oil, or Laqur base again Water soluable, and does not build up after every use, check to see if other products can say that.
Oil and Laqur as in Lemmon Pledge or furniture polish coats Hair, Fur, scales and Feathers, over time drying to a hard candy like coating
But before drying and in some cases never drying, attracts every airborne impurity that flies in the air ie, cigarette smoke, greese
dust etc...
Chad, just as a friendly warning: I sure hope you do some research on this subject sir, before you print up a large amout of flyers on the wrong way to handle these Valuable Trophies (Taxidermy Mounts).
Also, Seybrite has many credentials to prove the Safe, Effective, long standing test of time our products have endured to be marketed for going on our eleventh year now.
First; The North American Hunting Club field tested our Taxidermy Cleaning Kit for six weeks to insure their members were getting a product that was safe, economic and did what it says it does, we passed! as a matter of fact seventeen testers all gave us their written approval and we proudly display their seal of approval on every package, Along with Happy customers comments.
Second; our Product Seybrite has been on the market for close to elevn years now and we have not had a return ONCE! that is saying alot becasue we have sold almost twenty thousand kits to date.
Third; our Product is purchased in bulk amounts 10 or more cases 24 kits to a case, four times a year by several top name Taxidermy supply companies, Van Dyke and Research Mannikins, Denny Dennis Sporting Goods to name a few and we are talking with Cabela's, Walmart, Big K Kmart, Scheels Sporting Goods, Outdoorsman Sporting goods Dunns sporting Goods and Jonis Brothers Taxidermy supply Company now.
These companies would not endorse, sell and restock their shelves with our Product Seybrite if it did not meet strict criteria.
I could go on and on, but I think you get the picture Sir.
Chad, Please be careful what you listen to and/ or read, that you at least first do some research or get a second oppinion, Thank You.
If you went to Colorado, for a five day hunt hiked six miles up into a mountain on horse back, camped in a tent and harvested a beautiful seven by seven Bull Elk (a Trophy Not too many have), dressed it, hiked it down the mountain, got it to a Taxidermist He/ She did a Beautiful artistic job in bringing the Lifelike Charicteristics of your massive Trophy Elk to you, then you decide to clean it, to care for it and listen to the unfourtunate advise of just anyone, and put furniture polish on your Expensive, Sentimentaly Valuable Trophy Elk.... I hope you understand, that would be BAD! A LOT of money, maybe even the loss of the Mount.
And Tests prove that procedure ( Furniture polish and other copycat rip off chemicals) to be Detrimental to Taxidermy Mounts! They are Hair and Fur, Scales and Feathers, NOT Furiture! Furiture polish was designed for Furniture (wood, plastics, vynl) Not Hair! etc...
Please Visit our site, do the research, I will provide you with anything you request ( other than the actual ingrediants) to support your research in finding the way to care for Taxidermy Mounts, Chad
I would gladly email/or fax phone numbers of many satisfied customers and referances, if you need to get other oppinions on our product and services.
Thank You! and best Wishes. Patrick- Seybrite Inc.

This response submitted by Shepard Humphries on 7/7/00. ( )

I use Seybrite as part of my cleaning process. I am surprised by how well it works! I am able to wipe off dried blood and dirt that has been on a mount for 20 years. Before using Seybrite, I used a very harsh and dangerous dry-cleaning chemical called Perc. Even though it is wazzo powerful stuff, it does not clean as well as Seybrite.

DO NOT USE WD40, PLEDGE, PEANUT BUTTER, DRAINO OR ANY OTHER WRONG STUFF. A damp cloth with only water would be better!

If you really care about your mounts, have them professionally done. How much does that cost? If you have to ask...

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