Submitted by tyler on 6/15/99. ( )
i have a question on building a tumbler . I am a welder by trade so i have the capabilities to fabricate a very nice tumbler but im a little foggy on what kind of harware i need to make one . I know the basics like MOTOR, DRUMB,GEARS OR SOME SORT OF PULLIES but i would really like some ideas on what it is exactly i need and althought i could prbably fab up the main frame myself , it would be nice to get some ideas from others so that i could make my tumbler more efficent by using ideas from people that already been using the finished product like they say two heads are better than one , heck i wouldent mind using 2,3,4,5,6 heads , thats alot of brains at work HAHAHAHA. Thanks alot Tyler
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This response submitted by John Bellucci on 6/15/99. ( ArtistExpr@aol.com )
Tyler,
Here is an old post I put up on the subject. I've copied it here for you. As is so ofet the case, many of these subjects have been handled ... you just need to look for them.
Get a 55 gallon drum, plastic or steel. Mine is steel, but plastic may be easier to work with. I'll give you the "recipe" for my type of drum.
You need a door cut into the side of the drum, about 11 to 15 inches across by 10 or so inches high, (or bigger!) and cut it out in the center of the side.
To the interior of the door opening, I've attached, with sheet-metal screws, strips of masonite to form a lip to keep the door from falling into the barrel.
I attached window catches to act as locking mechanisms to hold the door in place on the barrel.
You need to attach wooden "baffles" onto the interior of the barrel, running lengthwise, screwing them on from the exterior walls. Baffles are wooden strips (furring-strips), that allow the skin to bounce and drop along with the corn cob grit or sawdust. Without them, the skin would hold against the interior walls by the centrifugal force of spinning.
Centered on each end of the barrel, I've attached, with sheet metal screws, pipe stands with a short length of pipe screwed in place on each stand.
That's it for the barrel.
For the base, I built a framework of two-by-fours to surround the drum with a couple to three inches of room to spare around the inner perimeter.
A cross-piece on the bottom of the framework holds an old washing machine motor: 1 1/2 to 2 horse, I forget. There is an electric cord w/plug clipped to the terminals on the motor. Anyway, this is set in place at one end of the base of the framework, below the barrel.
On top of the ends of the framework are attached ball-bearing rings that fit over the pipes coming from the ends of the barrel. They are held in place with sheet metal brackets, curved to fit over the bearing rings, and screwed into the end two-by-fours.
Finally, a washing machine pully, placed over the barrel at one end, runs from that end of the barrel down to the motor below. The tumbler is started by plugging it in. I've been meaning to install a "start-stop" switch for years. I'll get to it one of these days!
How does this beast hold up? Dandy!! It has been through at least four major moves, and been repositioned in my studios countless times, and is STILL standing.
How does it tumble? Dandy!! I've used it to tumble everything from: pheasant, turkey, duck, goose; lifesize: squirrel, raccoon, fox, coyote, bobcat, cougar; deer capes and lifesize deer, elk capes, moose capes, and lifesize grizzly bear, to name a few things!
Do I like it? you bet!! I have wanted a "tannery" size tumbler in the past, and may still build myself a 4' by 6' tumbler one day... but for now, I'm content with my "little" beastie!
Hope this answered your question somewhat. Good luck to you... John B.
This response submitted by George Roof on 6/15/99. ( georoof@aol.com )
Tyler,
I made my first tumbler similar to John's, but I got tired of having to scoop out the old sawdust and borax when it needed replacing. The unit I now use has a 35 gallon plastic drum with a removable top. The unit is driven by a single motor that connects the two drive axles (about 24 inches) apart by a belt and pulley. The axles go through the frame and have 4 inch "v" belt pulleys and the motor sits in the middle slightley lower with its own 4 inch wheel. On the axles, I have 4 rubber lawnmower wheels keyed to each axle.
I used 5/4 pressure treated deck boards to cut 3 baffles about 3 inches wide to fit inside the contour of the drum. I attached them through the drum wall with #8, 2" countersunk sheet metal screws. I used countersunk washers under each screw and slightly countersunk the wall of the drum . The whole unit sets underneath my work bench to save space and operate while I work on the counter. I have a common household switch/socket box that it plugs into right under the counter.
I just pull the barrel out off the rollers, put my work in, and reinstall the barrel, and flip the switch. When the mix gets old, I pull the barrel out and dump the whole mixture in the trash.
This response submitted by Doug on 6/15/99. ( Doug@ibm.net )
George,
Where did you get your Drum? I've been trying to get a hold of one
but i'm at a loss as to where i can get one. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Doug
This response submitted by Carl on 6/16/99. ( spinneyc@klis.com )
Try Van Dykes for the barrels , I know they used to sell them
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