Submitted by JG on 3/6/1999. ( )
I've only mounted a few fish but I seem to have a hard time knowing how much bone/skull to remove so the form fits right after its tanned.its hard to tell from the video and books I have .I seem to have a hard time locking the form in position.Any suggestions appreciated .
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This response submitted by John C on 3/6/1999. ( taxidemist118@hotmail.com )
The eay clue is, if its meat it has to go! This is where 99.9% of the people make thier mistake, it is leaving meat. Remove everything till you only have the skin and skull cap remaining, even thin the esphogas down remove the bits from the back of the crusher teeth and with cutters a lot of the gill cover support structure where it extends into the head. Keep rising in cool water and you can see the clinging flesh. <nextP>
What about the inside of the lower jaws? Remove that meat also. After this your body should fit correctly
.Good luck John
This response submitted by Paul B. on 3/6/1999. ( stuff-it@worldnet.att.net )
I use these pins alot on fish, they work very nice for securing head to form. I generally use 2 right through top of head angling back into form. Give it a try I'm sure it will work for you too.
I'm also sure they are availible from WASCO .
As far as how much bone/skull to remove, I've found the more the better for me. I carve my own bodies though, so not sure if this will work for you.
Paul
This response submitted by kenny b....fancy fins taxidermy on 3/7/1999. ( vctylane24@aol.com )
good advice so far.another clue that you have got enough
bone out is when you test fit the mannikin you should see
the tip of the mannikin when you look in the eye socket
thats why people like matt thompson have included in their
mannikin measurements a center of eye to base of tail length.
also the tip on using upholstry pin is a good one as well
as sturdy t-pins.because you never want the head to cock
down on a mounted fish.i also dry my fish upside down to
keep this from happening.
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