I am new at mounting ducks and geese, and I really dont want to spend a whole lot of money just to mount my own birds and friends birds. What I want to do is make my own fleshing machine. I have a number of small motors ranging from 1/25 hp to 1/4 hp. My plan is to use the 1/25 because it is a 3 phase which on low is extremely slow.
What is the rpm of the standard degreasing-fleshing machine motor?
What size and grade wire wheel do you use?
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I built my own bird flesher 4 yrs ago and I can't see a reason to change. It is a 1725 rpm motor(out of a washing machine I think)and I opt for 3-6 inch FINE brass wire wheels stacked together on a work arbor available at a good hardware store.Stacking the wheels spreads the surface so that burn through is prevented.Before fleshing run the machine and run a piece of wood across the wheels to run any long stray wires to the surface so you can nip them even with the other wires.A stray wire can slice through bird skin quickly.Happy fleshing
I'm growing accustomed to the arguments about saving money, but since you're "only mounting birds for yourself and your friends", is sure hope you aren't trying to save paying the USFWS that $25 for the migratory bird license. If you are, you're going to spend a whole more money. Your state guys also frown on unlicensed taxidermists who have more than their legal possession limits in their freezers.
You can save alot of money if you are creative. Im new in taxidermy myself and I built a flesher for 35 dollars. Bought a motor from Grainger and a wheel from Van Dykes. Just be creative, if you are into taxidermy you must be creative. Good luck and happy fleshing.
I have been a Taxidermist for 28 years and from my experiences I have learned that for a superior mount you must remove all fat, meat, tendons and bones that you feel comfortable with. I know this is alot to deal with as a novice but you might as well start now. I highly recommend using artificial heads, wings and feet if possible. Forget about using the old method of removing fat with scissors the results are poor at best. You must be able to break up the fatty tissue especially in the areas that have tightly compacted quills. I made my degreaser using a 1/3 horsepower, 1075 RPM motor from the blower fan of a Heater/AC unit. It has a 3/8 inch shaft and you can mount a fine brass wire wheel with shaft clamps or by threading the shaft for nuts and washers. If the the motor is a variable speed use the high speed since it will not grab as easily. The key is to use light pressure to break the tissue without tearing the skin. If you can not build a degreaser at this time a fine brass wire brush will work to break up the fatty tissue. Once you feel you have the tissue broken up the next step will be to wash the skin to degrease it. I will only use the non toxic method now by washing the skin in Dawn dishwashing detergent, rinse, soak in Kemel-4 by Knobloch for an hour, rinse, wash in Dawn again and rinse. I highly reccomend Liqua Cure by Knobloch for tanning instead of Borax. Excellent results! If you do not have a tumbler you can get by by using your clothes dryer at home on the air cycle only! Remove as much moisture from the bird as possible with towels, put the skin in a heavy duty garbage bag, add 2 to 3 lbs. of cornmeal and 1 lb. borax, inflate the bag and tie in a knot. You can also use fine corn cob grit. For snow geese use borax only otherwise it will stain the feathers! Only use about half the bag since you do not want a large area for the skin to bounce around in. It can damage the feathers! Fill the dryer with about 4 to 5 large dry bath towels and the bag with the bird skin or skins. For one duck tumble for an hour to 1 1/2 hours. Larger birds or multiple birds will take much longer. When dry, blow the the residue out of the feathers and skin with compressed air. Hope this helps!
Andrew, I hope you are just mess'n with him. The poor guy is gonna rip those birds to shreds.