Let me start off by saying that I am a beginner. I have mounted fifteen or so ducks. I also have searched the archives for this question with no luck. I want to mount a mandarin standing. In the past I have always made the neck too long. I am using rigid forms with wire and necking material bought from a supplier. The obvious answer would be just cut the necking material shorter but I just can't make it look right. I want the relaxed look with the head tight to the body. How do you pros keep the head close and what do you use for neking. Also how long do you cut it. I apologize in advance if this is already posted somewhere or if this is a stupid question. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Kevin, As a matter of fact I hate mounting birds standing or swiming for more reasons other then just that. Anyway Im not going to tell you how I do it because I dont feel that I have the best methods for that either, but I am interested in how everybody else answers it. So we can call this my question too ,and if it is a stupid question Im guilty too. I have been doing this for a while and I just have never really mastered those low head relaxed poses.
put back what you took out, just bend the neck in a tight s, if his head is going to be tight to the body I use a smaller wire, good luck
right, always measure your neck length and the girth from top to body and put back what you take out. Study the carcass of the bird and bend the neck the way you want the mount to be and then you can see how it actually is in real life under the skin and feathers. Using a slightly smaller gauge wire is a good idea if it will still support the head. Hope this helps.
When I try to put back exactly what I took out the bird seems to have a full length neck just bent in a tight S shape rather than having a relaxed look. I hope yall understand what I am trying to explain. Thanks to everyone who responded
Do what Mark and Ken say, your problem is in the taxiing of the skin! Before you tighten the neck against the body, pull the skin up and forward. The skin moves on the neck. I hope you can follow this. Or maybe someone else can explain better.
Bonnie
One of the strangest things I ever received turned out to be a real blessing in disguise. I was given a mallard to mount that had been put in the freezer before it was fully dead. (The guy swore he thought it WAS dead.) Anyway, it hunkered down and pulled it's neck all the way down and then got frozen in that position - looking absolutely perfect.
This is what I discovered when I dissected it without moving its neck: (I saw an opportunity and jumped on it!)
1) The neck was pulled ALL the way down into the "V" of the wishbone so that it appeared to exit the body VERY low down on the breast.
2) This, in effect, took over an inch off of the apparent length of the neck. (On a big duck)
3) The crop was shifted around to the right side and was actually resting ON TOP of the neck, completely filling in that section of the S-curve in the neck to where it was almost level with the duck's back.
The combination of all of those factors made the neck really appear to be shorter, and if I hadn't seen that crop on top of the neck I never would have believed it could do that. Since then, though, that's how I pose all of my low-necked ducks and IT WORKS.
is to look at a carcase with the neck still attached and set it into place. It makes a very natural bend and sits between the wishbone. Also notice what happens to the neck when the head is turned from side to side. Thnis will help get the right additude for any position the bird is in.
I see you post every now and then, thought I'd say Hi. Been a long time since we talked. Mark's Taxidermy in Tenino!
I see you post every now and then, thought I'd say Hi. Been a long time since we talked. Mark's Taxidermy in Tenino!
Posted twice again, my bad.
I prebend the neck before inserting it into the skin. I also use rigid forms and foam neck material. Another problem I have noticed with some mounts is that people have the neck going straight into the back of the skull or artificial head. This results in an unnatural bulge at the back of the head, almost like a cobra ready to strike. Even on a Mandarin, with it's large crest, this bulge is noticable. Keep the head attached to the neck the next time you skin out a bird. Now bend the neck into the natural "S" curve, and note that the neck seats in between the back of the mandible and the throat pushes forward. Rebuild this area with clay, or I use a piece of 1/4" foam neck material to mimic the top of the windpipe. I can send you a picture of a Mandarin I just completed to show you that it works.
Look at the carcass of a bird with neck attached. Notice where the last movable vertabrae in the neck connects to the body. Now compare it to your mannikin to make sure the neck slot is cut back far enough. I also carve plenty of foam out of the clavicle area. You have to keep in mind that with bird anatomy you must improvise sometimes contrary with what the carcass is telling you. That is because a wire & cotton neck will not snugly slip into the correct place without having a little extra room. All extremeties & length of carcass measurements should be accurate, everything in between should be approached with an open mind and not being afraid to improvise!
-Mike
I failed to mention that I'm always carving on rigid bird forms to adapt to what I want. Good words Mike!
I saw something somewhere a few days ago and thought it might be from you. 'Glad to see you found the Taxidermy.net forums! Have you been on here for a long time and I'm just now noticing? (Sadly, this is very possible ... I can be pretty unobservant at times.)
I used to post a lot of stuff but nowadays I usually let it slide, unless I think I can contribute something that hasn't already been mentioned.
I usually visit about every night for the past year or so. I'm doing some projects in Kentucky right now and have been doing alot of traveling, so from time to time I may disapear from the web for a month or so. Time to get a laptop! God I miss the Northwest!
-Mike.
Hey Mike .... Actually, I HAVE noticed the posts that you have made from time to time. I have Mike V. and tragopan forever linked in my mind.
I meant to say Mark, not Mike ... I am claiming it as either a senior or a blonde moment. (What was the question?)
I was thinking that I've just recently noticed postings by Mark Haskins, who is only "down the road a piece" by taxidermist's standards, anyway. Maybe he will see this.
Sorry for the confusion. Do you ever hear anything from Rip C. anymore? 'Just wondered what became of him ...
I just saw Rip at the S.C.I. convention in Reno. He's doing very well with his bronsework. N o more Taxidermy though. If your name mistake was due to blonde hair,then that is what makes blondes so special in the world we live in!L.O.L.
Mike.