Hey there,
I've searched the archive and found lots of great info on duck mounting. I've done a bunch of deer, turkeys, etc. Everything but ducks it would seem.
Well, now I've got one, actually my brother killed the bird and I kept it with the intent of surprising him with it for Christmas. Being the great procrastinator that I am, I just pulled it from the freezer and hope to get it done. We'll see.
Anyway, I've got two pretty stupid questions here.
1. I ordered a standing Ferebee set for a mallard. This duck looks a lot bigger than the form. It's the biggest mallard (if not the only unless I"m looking in the wrong spot in the catalog). Is that normal?
2. I ordered a "standing" set in error. I intend to mount this bird flying. Will I run into trouble or are the forms basically the same? My guess (or hope) is that the flying sets simply include some wire for the wings. But I'm new to this aspect of taxidermy.
Thanks for any help.
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If you ordered the incorrect form set, return it and reorder or exchange it for the correct one. I have never had a problem doing so. Joe Ferebee Supply has been a responsive firm and I anticipate that McKensie will do the same. It is also best to give them a call and let them know what is happening. The contents of the "set" (kit) will most likely include a manikin, eyes, wire sufficient for the legs and wings, a pre-made neck or "tow" to wrap the neck and a small bag of borax or some other powery absorbant - there may also be an artificial head included. There should also be some form of instructions - in some cases a video tape.
A flying form and a standing form are NOT the same. The primary difference is in the anatomy and location of the legs and back. Flying birds lift their legs thus moving the knee higher and making the back at that point a little wider. You could modify a standing manikin into a flying manikin as long as you know the anatomy. You could also look at the bird you have just skinned and adjust based on how the carcass looks in a flying position.
Now with regard to your observation that the duck you have looks bigger than the form. Mallards (all birds) come in different sizes. Suppliers provide manikins for mallards in different sizes to accomodate for this. The also show how to measure the carcass to get the coirrect approximate size. It is not very precise, so be prepared to do some modifying. Remember also, then when you skin a bird - particularly a duck, the fat comes off on the skin. When you remove the fat and degrease the skin it will be larger than it was before removing the fat - so do not be afraid to purchase a little bigger manikin.
In many ways, a bird is a bird is a bird. If you have mounted many turkeys as you indicate above, a duck will be a snap. Good luck
use the body you were sent. The standing/flying issues... Ah.. I wouldn't worry...in fact I'm not even sure if Ferbee offers a seperate mannikin.. i do not think he does.. They are all just standing. Granting if you were using a flying manniking for a standing bird, then yes... I might consider changing the form (if you didn't feel comfortable making the alterations) But using a standing form on a flying bird isn't going to make any difference, at least none that you are going to notice unless you decide to give the duck a pat down to feel it's anatomy later in life.
Size issues...once again.. I wouldn't worry.. Going smaller to larger is always prefereable to going from larger to smaller. Like CLewis said, once you skin and defat, chances are the skin is going to stretch like a waterballoon. You can do one of two things... either fill in the expanded areas with polyfill or get creative with pinning the feather tracts back to where they are suppose to go. Pinning is the correct answer.. but filling with polyfill is quicker and once again will provide just as good a result.
I know some will tell ya that I'm giving out bad info here.. but the truth is.. a very respectable mount can be obtained without taking it to competition level. There are many techniques and methods that will put out a better quality mount.. but they aren't always needed for standard everyday work.
Anyhow,
If you plan to put this under the tree.. I would strongly suggest you Get-R-Done!
Jon
How much actual difference is there in a torso from a standing bird and one from a flying bird. Granted, I carve my own bodies, but I simply can't imagine a real difference. When flying, at least in many ducks on the initial takeoff, the legs can be down or up, as many ducks use the legs in attaining altitude. Picture it like a small child swinging legs back and forth to get more altitude on a swing.
C. Lewis and Jon are both very informed on bird taxidermy, and I very-very rarely have to bother giving any more information aside from what they answer. I have placed in the archives a good bit of information, and have read every bird post since the beginning, but I have to admit this is the first time I ever saw someone claim that there are specific forms for a standing bird and a flying bird. Leg position can be all over the place in a standing bird - depending on the levelness of the substrate, or activity the bird is engaging in, but I seriously don't see any noticable difference in the body proper. The tail may need a slot carved at a different angle, and certainly where the tibia is attached (assuming you don't wire the femur) but how exactly does the body change. I would venture to say, inhaling and exhaling has as much difference in body shape than a flying bird body and a standing bird body.
I do see the manikins for sale in kits in the numerous catalogues out there but utterly laugh at the contortion that the original maker thinks the bird body assumes in flight. Almost as bad as a lot of mammal manikans of old.
Mr. Lewis, I would love to have an explanation of the difference in the body shape aside from simple thigh muscle displacement. And any other good bird taxidermists are hereby invited to throw in their 2 cents...
Money