Hello everyone!
Over the past several months I've seen and replied to many topics on washing a bird. It seems in general, alot of you guys are putting WAY WAY WAY too much effort and thought into washing a bird. The simple facts are...
1) No matter how long you spend washing a bird, if you havn't physically (NOT CHEMICALLY, cause those things just don't work) removed the fat and membrane from the inside of the skin, you are spinning your wheels. I used scissors for years, but now use a wire wheel. I also find it odd, how many people who use a wire wheel who don't know HOW to use a wire wheel. I've seen people sit infront of a flesher for literally an hour and then I look at thier skin, and it doesn't even look as if it's been touched.. Yet, to them it's been de-fatted and they are ready to move on. Ideally, you should be able to see inbetween every feather butt on the skin all the way to the skin with no fat what-so-ever. Realistically, that isn't going to happen every time, but you should make a darn good effort, and once experienced on a wheel, this should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes per duck sized bird.
2) Washing is the next step. And this is where the actual degreasing takes place. Bird skins are tougher than you'd think. After you have emulsified the fat and membrane on the inside of the skin, chances are it is a disgusting mess. This has to be cleaned. I use a large stiff plastic bristle brush (I think it is a welder's brush cause I brought in the welding section at Tractor Supply) and I initially rinse off as much of the goo as possible under running warm water.. Then I turn off the water, douce my skin with an ample amount of Dawn and start scrubbing with my brush.. and scrubbing is what I mean. Turn the skin inside out, and get after it.. This is one of the most important steps for a clean skin. Plus, it is added insurance at fat removal that you may have missed with the wheel. Once you have broken the membrane on inside of the skin, you can generally scrub the fat away and really clean the feather butts good.
I do this for about 10 minutes, and let the soap get good and frothy. Then I rinse again, and turn on the shower spiquet, and continue scrubbing for another 10 minutes to scrub under fresh water. Then I turn my bird right side out, and repeat the process on the feather side. Yes I said scrub those feathers. Check around every shot hole for dried blood, scrub it away if necessary. Get a toothbrush and straight dawn for the really dried stuff that is being stubborn. Whinks and hydrogen perxoide are convienient, but honestly, a toothbrush, soap, and fresh water will clean any blood stain. If you are going to Whinks a bird, DO IT BEFORE YOU SKIN IT. mix some whinks and water in a bath, and let the bird soak until it whites up.. This will not hurt the bird. Whinks on a skinned bird sometimes has a stiffening effect on feather tracts. Anyhow, I've now scrubbed inside and out for a minimum of 20 minutes or so. Then in a shallow pan, I mix a good warm(almost hot) Dawn bath and put my skin in. For about a minute I shake the pan to agitate the skin and then let it sit for about another 15 minutes or so.
3) RINSE. In the same shallow vat/pan, pour off the soapy water and start to rinse. RINSE RINSE RINSE.. and then rinse some more. Rinse the inside of the skin too. Then after a few minutes and you are satisfied it is rinsed well, fill the vat with cold water and put the skin back in and let it float. If you have done your job right, all the feathers should line back up, and you will have a very nice looking floating skin. This is also a good time to make one final inspection for caked blood anywhere on the skin.
4) drain the water. I use a washing maching on the spin cycle to remove the majority of the water, but blotting between a good towel works well too. Just becareful not to crimp any feathers.
At this point you are done.. Your bird is washed AND DEGREASED and is ready to be dried and mounted. Tanning is not needed on a bird skin (If you playing with ostrich or other ratites, we might reconsider,) Borax or DP will do just fine.
As far as drying...
some people use a solvent at this point to displace even more water and make the feathers dry faster. I too have done this in the past, but recently have moved away from it. A good tumble mix or a little time with a hair dryer or shop vac will fluff the skin just fine.
Make sure you get your feathers dry all the way to the down. If during the process your skin gets crispy, wet it down with a squirt bottle, but the feathers have to be dry....
Anyhow, hope this helps
Jon
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That took some typing. Anyhow it is a good reminder to those who are already bird taxidermists and a good lesson for the new guys.
Todd B
I can't believe with all of the books and videos available, almost none give that much information, or stress the importance of what is without a doubt the most important, and often most neglected step in mounting a bird.
thanks for this - it's great! and very thorough. as a UK beginner, however, i've never heard of Dawn - am assuming it's a US product - is this just a liquid soap?
Just one of the better liquid dish soaps on the market should suffice.
J~
Thanks for helping and getting us back to the basics.