OK. I got no response to the first message I ever posted on this forum - probably because it was buried deep in another posting.
Basically I am getting back in taxidermy (ducks only)after a 15 year break and have been researching this forum EXTENSIVELY for a week. Learned lots of good stuff and opinions. I will be trying a lot of new methods/techniques once my supplies arrive and I can get back to it. Will probably post several questions over the next few weeks.
Firstly, concerning tumbler mixes (although I "tumble" by hand). I'm one of those who uses gas, always have and love the results. Please no lectures, I've read all the opinions I can stand on whether to gas or not. I'm looking for discussions concerning diatomaceous earth after the gas wash. Is it compatible, any safety concerns, results? Is the stuff you can get at the pool supply as good as that from the Taxidermy companies?
Also looking for more discussions on plaster of paris (PoP). Does anyone out there still use this method? I've always used PoP after my gas but can't find much here on the subject besides most people thinking it is nuts. Saw one response about it leaving a dull or dusty appearance, but I have not found that to be.
One note about my past use of PoP. I self taught myself taxidermy from an OLD book ('50s or '60s?) that prescribed this method of gas then PoP but never mentioned precleaning skin in detergent (dawn or other) before the gas. Thus, I never washed ANY of my skins (about 30 birds or so). I only defatted by hand (very thouroughly), wiped excess, then went directly to the gas, then to the PoP, then blew out the PoP. All my birds turned out great and still look good today (no leakage), some are 30 years old. PLEASE, no lectures on the importance of washing with Dawn, I plan on extensively washing now that I know better. I'm wondering if that by now washing/rinsing, then gassing, then using PoP, will the PoP possibly "clump" since there may be some water left in the skin (even though the gas should displace the water).
OK, I know I asked for no lectures on gas, but I have to throw in my 2 cents on the benefits of it. Because I never washed my skins first (wrong I know, but I was "taught" this way and I WILL now wash), you can only imagine how greasy they were when I put them in the gas. And I mean bad, some looked like vitims of the Exxon Valdez. HOWEVER, they all came out fluffy clean after the gas/PoP. To me this speaks to the virtue of gas or other solvent in the taxidermy process. I'm not trying to convert anyone; I know gas is not a degreaser, but hey, you can't tell me it has NO benefits besides water displacement - I've seen it work wonders, thanks to my ignorance. Again, I WILL WASH EXTENSIVELY IN THE FUTURE, please no lectures.
Back to my point, opinions on ditomaceous earth and/or plaster of paris? I've searched the forum and read lots on sawdusts and cob grit but not seen much on these two media.
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Thank you for reminding of the methods I abandoned 35 years ago. Once you come around to modern taxidermy, you're sure to enjoy it.
Diatomaceous earth should cause no problems as the cellular structure is almost pure silica. The fact that diatoms are encapsulated in the stuff again should not cause any particular problems. I'm ASSUMING here, but I supposing that you're using it for the insect proofing qualities, but those are far inferior to borax and or dry preservative. And one hellava lot cheaper in the long run.
I suspect your questions are going to have some pretty tough sledding here on this site as very few of us are even familiar with the antiquated procedures you've already spelled out. (I notice you don't want lectures, but don't mind giving them as with your "gassing".) Young taxidermists today have been taught by people who never knew such things either so you might not expect much help. Those of us who WERE around during those primitive methods have moved on decades ago. And if you doubt the wisdom in that, just look at the specimens using your methods and then check out the websites of guys like Stefan Savides and Dave Luke. John Janelli and Stephen Rogers are well versed on these historical methods I'm sure and they might be able to help you specifically.
I think Research sells it for tumbling, but I'll not heard anything about it's results either.
While, I haven't practiced in 15 years unfortunatly, I still have kept up with the industry and am well aware of the new and improved practices. Like I implied, I learned from a not so great source years ago as a poor kid. Even though my methods were atiquidated, I'm still quite happy with the results even though some of my mounts are 30 years old. I am looking forward to starting again, but by doing things better and, in some cases, correctlly. I AM one of those who will try new things (I actually will try a bird without a solvent wash) and am looking forward to any help you guys can give.
Sorry about the lecture thing. I realize it seemed hypocritical to say I didn't want any but ended up giving one - a little one; I'm not tryng to convert anyone - as I typed my past experiences I felt it was a good point as to the pros for solvents, seeing how my method was a worst case type scenario. Again, I will try a bird with no solvents and will have no problem skipping them altogether if I like it. Also, I can take a lecture (as long as I'm not being bashed), its just that after reading past posts I was trying to soften the potential blows I may receive especially considering my antique methods.
As a matter of fact, and PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE don't take this the wrong way George. Because I EXTENSIVELY researched the archived forum before I finally posted a question, I was really kinda scared that you were the first one to respond. Thanks for going easy on me.
Back to the diatomaceoas earth. I got the impression from some past post that it was used for a tumbling media, although it didn't really click to me. That's what my question centered on.
And i was warned not to EVER breathe the D.E. in. As you already should know D.E. is ground up fossils, also known as diatom fossil flour, and my supplier told me that the silica would slice up your lungs a little at a time if you breathed in in, it is like breathing in millions of mini razor blades.
It however is amazing absorbent, i guess that is one reason why it is so bad in the lungs, dust or whatever gets mushy when wet but silica will keep damaging the lungs, ( that last little thought was just my own personal theory.)
Some Deer farmers feed D.E. to their deer, as an organic, scentless insect(mostly tick) repellent and feces insecticide. I don't know if it works but they do it. So you may look into one of the bigger feed ingredient suppliers in your area, provided you are in a semi-sgricultural area. Also it is the major ingredient in some "oil absorbing mixes' that garages uses, or "stall-dry" type mixes that horse people use. So depending on what you want to do with it you might get along just as well using an oil absorbing material, if you can find the fluffy powdery kinds
Griz, I've also worked with it before as an additive to our cement grout when plugging drill holes at a Superfund site investigation where creosote was used extensively (I believe its oil absorbing qualities were a safeguard of sorts). Am well aware of its nasty makeup (we wore masks/repirators) as well as what it is (biologist of sorts). That's kinda why I'm interested in it. I was wondering what its application was in taxidermy. Is it something used for helping with "bugproofing" a mount; if so, how do you use it? Inside the skin along with borax or DP. Dusting of the feathers also?
Is it used for "tumbling"? If so, what are the advanteges over sawdust or cob grit?
You can't believe my P.R. anyway. I only bite those who ask the dumb questions. Yours were good valid questions and I really don't bite.
The only bugproofers we have now are the borax based or dry preservative based ones. Everything else has been made illegal by the EPA. I usually "dust" my birds with DP before tumbling them. I coat the inside of the bird with DP AFTER I've tumbled the feathers almost dry. Then I use a "birdblower" to finish the feather drying. I use corncob grit instead of the old staple hardwood sawdust. The wood tends to attach to the primary feathers while the cob will simply fall away when the feathers dry.