OK, next question

Submitted by Davey J on 7/7/05 at 11:26 PM. ( ) 69.149.244.148

...is on using real skulls/beaks. I've always used the real thing and "gotten to them" via an incision on the back of the head. I would build it back up with various cotton materials and flexible styrofoam wraps. I plan on trying the total skull removal via cutting around the bill. (I did find it interesting reading past posts that some of you say you can actually pull the skin over the skull without using an incision; I almost never had luck with that. I guess I am too afraid of damaging the skin). Anyway, I have several questions concerning the total skull removal process.

What do you use to rebuild with (knowing I have to have a good "base" to glue the skin to around the bill)? I'm assuming a clay or two part epoxy, which would also help with any caulk use should I use it, such as on crested birds. Is the SLo-Zap CA any better than the original Zap-A-Gap?

Do you rebuild totally or leave a "socket" to add clay/epoxy later when you set the eyes during mounting?

Finally, I've never "built up" my bills. Because in the past my skulls were attached to the skin, I would clean it well, borax, rebuild the skull, then mount. Because the skull is now detached and the skin probably back in the freezer, do you let the skull/bill dry out real good and thus let the bill shrink then build up the bill at the same time you build up the skull? What do you use to build up the bill? I've read past posts (not much instruction, only opinion). If I read correctly, the entire bill usually doesn't need building up, only portions. I'm having a hard time picturing how to get small amounts of whatever media to "stick" to the bill. Is it something that needs to be applyed, let dry, then kinda, whittle/grind into shape?

Again, I am not looking for lectures on the pros and cons of real skulls verses fake. You guys have posted MANY discussions on that. I'll probably try the fake ones in time, but I want to see how this goes first - I've always kinda leaned to natural side of this issue. Any actual INSTRUCTION will be appreciated.

Also, please don't misconstrue my questions/letters as being crass or defensive. I can't tell you how much I've learned from this forum and enjoy reading other people's opinions on how to do things(although I have little tolerance for those who seem to only bash others). It's just that after researching this forum EXTENSIVELY for the last week, I can't help but notice how many times someone will post a question only to have tons of replies where people "get on their personal little soapbox" but the question NEVER actually gets answered.

Thanks again - great forum.

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Davey, you're a hard nut to crack

This response submitted by George on 7/8/05 at 10:26 AM. ( georoof@aol.com ) 64.12.116.132

Most people don't get away with that "tell me what I want to know, not what you want me to know" attitude. As you see, THIS POST has set here for sometime and only because I feel sorry for your dumbass (LOL) am I going to answer.

I agree with you about inverting the skin. Very few species will invert without tearing. I, too, use the dorsal cut on birds I intend to use the real skull on, but many taxidermists cut underneath or along the side of the off side of the mount. Since I hook my neck wire back into the skull, the top dorsal incision is the only one that works for me.

I don't know how your ducks ever looked realistic without repairing the shrinkage in their bills. I use Apoxie. The colored epoxy works best as it's smoother and creamier than the Apoxie Sculpt Natural. Stay away from the Black if you don't want a mess. The color transfers to everything and you'd better be wearing gloves if you don't want to tint your hands. The Flesh and the White work exceptionally well for repairs. You don't "whittle" or "grind" anything. You use small dabs of it and you keep your hands extremely wet. Then you smooth this Apoxie out to fit the contours. You only repair those areas where obvious lines of shrinkage appear.

You know you can use the real head if you incise the skin as if you were going to use an artificial head. Though I still don't understand your attraction to the flame of antiquated methods, removal of the head allows for better cleaning and drying. The head can be repaired with Apoxie Sculpt, eyes built into the sockets, bill repaired and head painted before reinstalling it just like the artificial heads.

You're so adamant on using those old methods, I'd be greatly interested in hearing how you react when you finally wake up and use the better, more modern techniques that have become the accepted standard. You seem to have chosen the "Amish lifestyle", but I still can't fathom for what reason you'd relish being stuck in time.


Thanks George

This response submitted by The Taxidermologist on 7/8/05 at 8:25 PM. ( ) 24.3.179.164

I have no time to spend writing up instructions for someone who doesn't want a lecture on anything and is adament on continueing to use extremely outdated methods. Plaster of Paris was a published method of washing birds "Webster, F. S. 1884. How to Clean soiled bird skins. Pp. 77-82 in Third Annual Report of the Society of American Taxidermists, 1882-1883, Gibson Brothers, Washington D.C." But in 1884, Gasoline as a substance probably wasn't yet placed in the Dictionary. After scraping, and absorbing with sawdust, corn meal or Plaster of Paris, the birds were swabbed with turpentine (Or naptha or benzene) and fluffed in Plaster. The difference was though, I believe, the Plaster of the day was not nearly as finely ground as what is bought at Wallyworld. No person I am aware of currently uses Plaster of Paris to dry bird skins.

I would suggest Davey join the NTA and go to Sioux Falls where he can argue with lots of bird taxidermists that his method is lots better than those currently being used.


To The Taxidermist

This response submitted by Davey J on 7/9/05 at 2:44 PM. ( ) 69.148.45.133

Thanks for the history lesson. It was informative. But like George, you are 100% missing my point/intention. (Read my last post on "crying".) I am not a taxidermist. I AM a duck hunter - "dyed in the wool; won't hardly hunt anything else; "God Forbid" should I ever get divorced, the term duck hunting WILL be in the divorce papers."

YES I know how I did things years ago was outdated - that's why I'm here now asking questions now that I am going to start mounting again. I enjoy mounting my own ducks, which came about years ago when as a kid because I couldn't afford the prices then plus I was kinda dissapointed with the work my local taxidermists did on birds. My mounts from years ago still look good and are holding up well. I KNOW they are not perfect and could have been done better; they weren't meant to be competition pieces. I am in no way advocating anything, trying to imply I know what works best, or would even dare compare myself or work to you guys who truely devote your time and effort to this great pastime/career. For goodness sakes, I am only trying to improve myself. I'm not gonna jump back into this (taxidermy)so I can be a master and compete with the greats. I'm just a lowly duck hunter who likes having ducks on the walls, on the coffee tables, hanging from the ceiling, over the mantle, etc. (OK I take back the mantle part - I know better.) I'm not trying to step on any toes. Some of you guys can be so touchy!

Concerning Plaster of Paris, I simply stated that's how I did it ( DID it, like in the past). This post was specifically put here to get some feedback on DE and/or PoP as I had seen little in the archives. I've read plenty on sawdust and cob grit (good discussions)so I didn't really request feedback on those. I'm a pretty smart guy; it doesn't take a brain surgeon to figure from the archives that other media is better and that PoP is not used anymore. Just looking for some simple feedback such as a responses that anyone who has used both (PoP and corn grit/sawdust) sees a remarkable difference (even though I assume that to be true) or PoP has been found to be bad for you or the skin because of....


It is The TaxidermOLOGIST

This response submitted by The Taxidermologist on 7/9/05 at 8:11 PM. ( ) 24.3.179.164

Many of the bird specialists have come and gone after posting their opinions as to what methods work and which don't. After most the info is already in there, we get sort of tired typing in the same old answers which have been answered over and over in the archives. Lots of great bird taxidermists have given their info in the past. I would suggest you spend a few weeks reading every post under the bird category. When you scroll down to the lowest post when you click on birds, all the past posts are there. READ EVERY ONE. Pay attention to the better responses - hopefully you will recognize a good answer from a poor one. I have read them all - every one since July 2000 when I found this forum, and evry one from 1998 to 2000. There is a wealth of info there. Good Luck.


Taxidermologist

This response submitted by Davey J on 7/9/05 at 9:59 PM. ( ) 69.148.45.133

Sorry, my mistake. See how easy it is to think you read one thing but it really was something else? Anyway, I couldn't agree with you more. As you probably know, you can't always find everything using the search button. I spent at least 15 hours just "searching" before I decided to go back through the old postings. I'm around the middle of 2003 as far as reading them all; it takes forever just to get through a few months of postings, but your right, there's plenty of good info on there. I do plan on reading them all (I also tend to write a lot of notes down also as I read them, and would advise other newbies to this site as there is tons of tuff to take in).

Even though you guys get tired of writing the same stuff over (I know the feeling from participating in other, totally unrelated forums), us newbies thank you. I was trying to get a few answers before finally ordering supplies to restock my limited leftover stuff from 15 years ago. I've almost forced myself back into taxidermy - I've got way too many birds in the freezer, some of which I do not want to loose due to freezer burn. (Yes I've seen some great tips on that subject although I'm not worrying too much as I always prepared birds for the freezer real well).I have more questions, but most can wait til I've read everything and/or start actually mounting again.


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