I finally took the big leap and removed a harlequin head instead of just cleaning it the old fashioned way in place skinned down to the bill. My question to the experts is, do I then scrap the skull clean and dry it before packing it with clay? ALso when I insert the super glue into the edges of the skin to attach to the skull how do you deal with the whispy spider web trailers ? I just rolled the the glue onto a long pin and after getting some on the pin justed rolled it until all the whispies were contained in the drop of glue. I can see how with some practice this is a great technique. I have learned a great deal from this forum. Thanks for your help. Cheers
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Why not just use an artificial head? You've already gone through the steps necessary. Instead of taking the time to clean a skull and bill that is going to shrink and discolor use that time to prep and paint a good quality artificial head and use that. NO shrinkage, NO painting after drying....NO problem.
As far as the little whispy strands of membrane remaining on the head skin I usually trim those off with a pair of fine tip scissors. Use VERY little glue and you will enjoy the results FAR longer than if you used the original head.
Good luck!
Isn't working with the head much more fun this way? I think you've already got the basic idea, and all you need to do is use this method more. It will come easily to you, I'm sure....Yes, you do need to clean the skull completely before filling it with clay. And by the way, since you have been using the original skull for all this time, it's only natural to continue using the original skull with this new method. I agree, artificial heads are easy, but they are expensive, sometimes they don't fit, and you have to wait for them to come in the mail. I like to use the original skull, and I just clean it and rebuild it like you did with your harlequin. I remember how excited I was to learn this new method....mostly because I hated to sew up duck necks, lol! Have fun:oD
Becky
I have mounted my fair share of Harlequins they have fleshy bills!Even if they don't look like it. Do your customer a favor and put an artifical in that bird, being a HARLEQUIN it might be a once in a lifetime bird for your client.
-northern wings
NO having to drill out the nostril openings, NO trouble finding the right size skull, No problem filling air bubbles in a poor cast, NO problem making sure the lower mandible has the proper edges (like in spoonbills for an extreme), NO problem seeing both parts of the bill (vs. one piece plastic imitation), NO problem painting the bill before you place it back on.
Both ways have their merits. You could even place the cleaned skull after it was freshly skinned in a frost free refrigerator and it would be freeze dried before you could order and receive a cast bill which MIGHT be the right size.
I also quit using clay on the head - don't like the shrinkage. You can set the eyes in the orginal skull exactly like those you removed and don't have to rely on how the artificial skull was built (all skulls purchased are not necessarily accurate).
Try both methods repeated times and you will develope your own style.
I rebuild the head with sculpting epoxy instead of clay execpt for the eye sockets where I will eventually use clay or epoxy when I assemble. The epoxy lets you basically create an artificial head just like the one you buy, except it will actually fit!It gives a great surface to glue to, you can drill out the back for securing the neck, and it is durable. I even peel the bill back a tad and get some sculpting epoxy under there, so my skin, beak, head junction is SOLID.
Why not cast the original skull? It will be the same size as the original,will eliminate any shrinkage and can be painted before re-inserting.Seems the Taxidermologist above has a lot of problems with cast heads that could be overcome if he took the time to learn how to cast well.Grinding a nostril and replacing the nasal post can be a lot easier than rebuilding shrinkage and rebuilding the original nasal post that shrunk away in the drying time.You can make a mold of a duck head in less than an hour and then cast many repros from the cast at a cost of pennies in time and materials.It's called learning to be a better taxidermist.You will rarely find a natural duck head on a mount that is equal to a WELL DONE cast head...note the words WELL DONE.Learn the new lessons of your craft and become a better taxidermist. Good luck....JL
I have cast my own bills on a few mounts - as they are indeed the same size as the bird that I skin. But, I am still left with drilling the nostril to be like in life - take a close look at a real bill and tell me how you can drill that precise hole. Secondly, try and mold the filter apparatus on a shoveler - I don't care if you are THE BEST moldmaker in the world, it cannot be done as well as the original.
Also, using a cast bill for the exact duck it came from is a plus. But, to say you can re-use the same mold for the next duck doesn't solve the problem that Anseriform bills come in all sizes. Believing that all mallard bills come in the same size is exactly like believing all humans fit the same size shoe - size 8 D, right. How many people on this forum have that size shoe?
Besides, who said you couldn't paint the real bill before mounting up the bird?
We do need to argue/discuss about Taxidermy at times - it isn't always about Cecil. Paul knows I was simply pulling his chain to show the other side of how one might interpret this phase of bird taxidermy.
Ha ha, JL, you must not know who the "Taxidermologist" is.....I think he knows just a little bit more than you think! Mr.Savides happens to be my favorite bird taxidermist of them all, and we could learn a Lot from his advice. Every time I read one of his posts, I learn something new. For my next duck, I am going to clean out the skull and put it in the freezer for a while...what a great tip! I agree that using the real head is perfectly fine, if you do it correctly. Some of us have tried using artificial heads, but stick with using the original heads for personal reasons. We just like that way better:o)
Becky
Maybe I'm confused but I didn't think Taxidermologist was Savides?
JL knows for sure - he also likes to stir the pot on occassion. I have always said, there is many ways to skin a cat, and many more ways to stuff him. The ultimate end product is what counts. Each person must make their own decision and live with the end product. I grimace every time I see a particular goose mount where I used a "large" goose head made by Frank that was at least 3/4 inch shorter than it should have been. The head looks like more like a Richardson's goose on a true B. c. canadensis body - see http://www.oceanwanderers.com/CAGO.Subspecies.html
I will never use a commercial head again unless it is so close in size it almost a clone - and it is a great cast done by myself. For the record, the first cast head I did was for a penguin I mounted in 1984 where the entire skeleton was saved and I cast the head and toes to make a full mount.
Becky, I thought you were from Pennsylvania?
I cast alot of heads myself and never have problems picking up details like the filters. Seems it would be more work rebuiding a shrunken bill than dremeling out the nostrils.
I agree with Jean
the moment you have removed the original parts,,ie the head or feet ,and replaced it with a commercial "Mickey Mouse" reproduction accessory--you know the sort,,one size fits all,,it has lost all value to scientific collections and collectors.
The ten or twenty bucks you pay to use a repalcement part, halves the long term value of such mounted specimens to collectors.
Thats bad business investment ,,so keep that in mind.