having problems with tear ducks opening up and also would like to know if i can rehydrate a recently mounted deer head and fix ducks that have opened up
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You have to take care or the first problem in your final fleshing by thinning the tear ducts paper thin less leather no shrinkage. Then ensure you have them tucked in all the way . What works for me once I have them thin I position the hide and work the tear duct in with a T-Pin or small tool once they are tucked I run a Brad in the foam a couple pins on the outside to hold the hide while the paste is setting will hold everything in place. As far as rehydrating yes you can but if they are not thinned they will still shrink a lot. But rehrydrate and ensure they are tucked and brad and pin should look better than what you have. Hope this helps.
NEED A 3-186 TO POSSESS ONE OF THESE AND WHATS THE LIMIT?
Al, I agree with Elmer that thinning the tear duct after tanning is the key. When you think you have it thinned enough thin it some more! I mean paper thin and out about 1/2 inch from the actual tear duct. The difference I have with Elmer after that is I don't use T-pins. I build a little mound, perhaps a little oversize with all-game, sculp-epox or whatever that depicts the tear duct. USE REFERENCE! Also I put some in the hollowed out area on the form where the tear duct will fit. After mounting DON'T LEAVE IT ALONE! Come back to it every now and then for the next few hours and shape it where you want it. When it sets it will be FIRST CLASS! As for the response from Smart- A** on this post either that was some kind of a sad mistake or this person is out of their mind! This is a site for helpul information not this nonsense.
fill you duct with clay and form a small ridge on the outer surface of the manikin with clay also insert a t pin and push in the duct and as the skin dryies form the clay downtowards the duct. i have super results doing this.hope it helps
I find the biggest reason for this shrinkage is both thickness and that clay. The duct (I too chuckled at "ducks", honest mistake, but we can still giggle) has a fold on top that needs to be split, and then shaved. Bedding the skin in clay makes it worse, as the clay can move as well. I trust the shape of the form on an accurate form, or build it back with Apoxie sculpt. But I let it harden before I mount it, so the skin can glue to it without movement. Lastly, check the skin size, as a tight fitting cape on a larger form will lead to all that pulling as well.