I have a friend that shot a deer 2 years ago. The deer had a nice 4x3 set of horns. He was upset to see the g2 broke off on one side. He wanted to know if I could build a new one. Does anyone know how to do this procedure? Thanks, Brady Sutherland
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Not to sound like a wise a$$, but deer DO NOT have HORNS, they have ANTLERS. Sorry, for some reason that really erks me. Anyway, now that I've gotten that off my chest, here's what to do. Start by drilling a hole where your going to start your repair work large enough to install a wire to support your sculpting compound. After you cut your wire to the right length, start re-building your "antler" with sculp all, I've found Epoxy Bond to work great for this. Texture your repair to match the rest of the antler, then stain them. That's about it, but if it's not enough,use the search feature off to the left<<<<<< and type in "antler repairing" there is an abundance of archives on this topic. Good luck! Marc R
Brady the archives will help you but what I do is find a horn that matches close I drill a hole for a wire in both and dremel tool them close to fit and angle then five minute epoxey together then sculpt all that little area lot easier than building a whole tine. Then mix castall and blend area when it starts setting make the blood scratches in it I even put ashes on it to color. THe cast all will take the stain where sculptall won,t.
Marc JUST got IRKED again. What timing! Your tip is a good tip, but I really don't think you are going to find a horn tip that matches an antler. (How did I do Marc?...EH?)
I enjoy reading all Q and A,s except the ones that belittle others. Mark 'hey man' deer do have horns, antlers, racks, some are called monsters, some are called mooses. Brady, Mark made a good suggestion on your antler repair ?. I promise I,m no wise a$$ , and I seldom erk. Yall keepm straight upar.
I'm fairly confident no Texas deer hunter has ever used the word"antlers"in his life! They're HORNS pardner!
The whole horn/antler thing bothers me to, But this guy that says Eh! all of the time erks me.
What wrong with eh, JACK A$$!
Eh, now that aint nice Eh! Eh, Whats next Eh? Eh, look at the plain Eh. Eh Eh Eh Eh HE HE HE HE!...............
Another way you can do it is to mold the opposite g-2. Usually there isn't that much difference between the two. I have seen some just make a quick mold with hot glue and others use silicone,either way would work. You can drill the stub and insert a wire and then just fill the mold with your casting material and push it on to the stub. You should be careful not to have too much casting material in the mold though, otherwise you'll have a little mess. Once hard pull off the mold,clean off the excess and there you have it EH!
Da ya got me Doug but I got carried away with the moment giving advice and thats a great technique Paul I,ve done that before too. But horns antlers who cares EH dougie. See you at the show.Oh by the way I have a 18 3/4 inch perch but I ain,t gonna show it to ya.
Check your email! <`}}}}}}}}}}}}}}< (18 3/4" perch)
Brady, after you install youre wire in the hole you have drilled for youre point, run a bead of hot melt glue around youre wire so that youre epoxy medium can adhere better, form youre point with the epoxy using water on youre fingers to help shape the point. When the point has set up, youll find out that itis much better to put a flat paint mixture on the artificial point first, make it close to a bone color,then after that has dried go ahead and try to stain it.Use a fine steel wool to try to blend the point to the rest of the rack, a Q-tip dipped in stain and lightly rolled along the point will help in giving you the darker pitted creases that look much more natural when you are finished. Keep in mind it may take several days to finally arrive at the color you desire.
I'm new to all this but today received my March/April issue of Taxidermy Today mag and it has an article on how reproduce drop tines by Erich Carter. As I look this over you would reproduce the G-2 you still have and attach it.As I said I'm new to this and find this Mag and other Taxidermy mags very informitive along with site as I read it everyday.Thanks to all!
I did repairs on three sets of antlers, including twom where the main beam had beenbroken adn/or shot off. Rather than use wire to support the reapir work, I drilled a hole in each piece, filled with Epoxy sculpt and inserted a 4-inch deck screw. Let it wet up and measure to match the opposite hole. Dremel it off, fill the opposite hole with epoxy and insert with a twist. On nmain beam repairs, I used two parallel screws to counter any problems that might arise from torsion due to the weight of the antler distal to the repair site. The threads on the screws set up and hold very well.