can someone please tell me how to build up a deer nose to look natural when completed? i tried the mod podge only it never looks natural when i'm done, looks lumpy, the hair on the nose gets ruined, any help please?
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Look in Breakthrough #63. There is a very good article by Ben Mears. He uses oil paints, but the results look great.
Josh
I use mod podge and it works great.paint your nose first,i use flesh on the inside of the nostrils fading out to the hairline,then mist with raw umber.when you apply mod podge use a very fine brush and dab it on one drop at a time,make sure not to get it on the hair pads,you may have to put on more than one coat to build up the bumps on the nose.also turn the head so the nose is pointed to the ceiling so the mod podge won't run.it's a time consuming process but the results are great.
good luck, Al
Like Al has already pointed out, don't try to do this in one sitting.
You might consider using an insulin syringe to apply the Mod Podge.
This is a place where magnification helps, I just use the $10 2x reading glasses
like you can get at a department store. On the first pass, tease the
Mod Podge into place with in the little nodules, don't "color out of
the lines". Second pass, after the first is dry, work on the shape with in
the individual nodules. Depending on the nose, that might have you there.
If need be, do a third application.
If the nodules have came out too high, or too dome shaped, there's some
stuff called Puzzle-Pro available at craft stores and departments that
is like a super thin Mod Podge. Apply this with a #2 liner brush, that's
one of those expensive little brushes with just a few hairs, work it quickly,
start at one point and keep working out from the wet line as to avoid
brush mark over laps.
I would suggest practicing on a block of wood, a piece of paste board, about
any thing until you get the feel of using the insulin syringe with the Mod
Podge. The same suggestion for the Puzzle-Pro, it's real thin and runs like
water.
The above described process can be used either under or over paint.
Another option. If the system you are using produces a nose pad that
dries black, you can seal the pad with Min-Wax Natural wood stain, using
the #2 liner brush. Allow this to dry over night before following up
with water base finishes. This makes a "quick" method when used with my
above description that yields decent results.
If you would like, send me your e-mail address, and I can send you jpegs
of finished noses done with variations of the above described process.
It might take me a day or two to dig 'em out of file, but I will get them there.
I came back to read what I wrote, and realized that once again, I did
not make my explanation clear.
Let me try this again.
When you apply the Puzzle-Pro, it gets brushed on over the Mod-Podge.
Actually over the whole nose pad. It will run off the high points of
the Mod Podge and give a nice transitional tie in to each of the nodules.
There's a reason I like pictures! Something about a thousand words!
thank you all for your responses, it takes time for you all to answer these forum questions and i for one appreciate it. THANK YOU