I'm looking for a more creative way to hide the stitching on my deer mounts. I normally use a short incision and hiding the stitching isn't as big an issue as capes split all the way. I am going to mount a deer caped by someone else that is split all the way down the back. I have mounted many like this but have not been happy with the seam showing somewhat. I have seen other mounts that had the long incision but unless you ran your hand down the back and felt the seam you coud not tell. What techniques do you guys use to hide the seam? I use a hammer to tap the seam down flush and then try to position the hair over the seam using hair gell but it is still noticable. Do you have any stitching techniques that pulls the seam together without the bunching up or pulling apart problems? I use waxed cape thread and my stitches are about 1/4" apart. Is this too far apart and should the incision be pinned after it is closed to prevent pulling? Thanks in advance.
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turn the cape inside out and stitch it up to a short Y insicon you are back to step one
I use a hidden stitch on my deer shoulder mounts. Start on one side of the incision. Take your needle and run it from the hair side down to the flesh side and back up out the hair side. Now go over to the other side of the incision and repeat this process. This is one of the tightest stitches and you will never see the seam.
Option #2 is to dremel out a 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep notch all the way down the neck of your form (where the stitches will lay). Next, fill this notch with critter clay and stitch up the cape. Now take a lip tucking tool and press the stitches into the clay and you're done!
On my stubborn capes I have used this tactic and the seam never shows.After you have sewn the seam with waxed thread and 1/4 inch stitches,position the skin and hair patterns to where they should be .Remember to slide the shoulders up and forward so the skin lies in its proper spot and you have some wrinkles on the back of the neck just fore of the withers.When you're happy with placement hammer the seam flat-take some 1/8 inch hardware cloth and cut strips 2-3 inches wide and the length of the seam ,center it ,and staple it to nthe seam area . Let the mount dry for at least 2 days depending on your humidity.Remove the mesh and brush out the area well,backbrushing a few spots and using gel only in the stubborn areas. I use Epo-Grip epoxies for my hide paste so I know it holds.
you can also use regular plastic or aluminum screening from an old screen door (no rust), fold it into an 18 X 1" strip and t-pin it down the centerline of your seam (after you push your seam down into the trough full of earbase or clay). dont forget to brush the hair somewhat to the centerline to cover.
fb up there sez to dremel a channel. That is mostly right but it is a messy job. Simply cut a shallow " V " down the center of the neck with a utility knife fill it with clay and stitch as usual. As you go along every couple inches put some T-pins in to help hold the stitching tight. When you are done use a small tack hammer to tap the stitching into the clay just a bit then card with T-pins for a time. Works great. Don't forget to comb or brush the hair before carding.
Thanx all for the help. I will try these tips on my next deer.