I just finished a whitetail and I am not happy with the mouth. It has already dried completely and I was wondering if I could somehow soften it up to re-sew it again. Any suggestions?
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Its been before I started learning that mouths were sewn. Even then the better taxidermist were using paper forms.
With todays foam forms cut a slot use sand paper to even it out, work Hide Adhesive into the slot and tuck the lips.
How did you preserve the hide? Tanning, Dp or what?
Take some Rittels Super Relaxer dilute it as recommended and soak it back. Next just undo the sewing. repair the lip slot with clay. Using Epo-Grip Hide adhesive 2 part. do the nose and muzzle, tuck upper lip. Then do the lower jaw and tuck the lips.
Thanks for your input. Sorry, how deep of a slot do you cut in the form? Just to make sure I do this right: I cut the slot, put hide paste in the slot, then put clay in the slot, then tuck the lips into the clay? Do I put the hide relaxer on the hair and let it soak through? One more question, what holds the lips in place when they are drying? Sorry for bothering you.
I would submerge the muzzle.
Cut the slor 1/2 inch deep, sand the slot with 120 grit wet or dry sand paper.
Use only as much clay as needed to help smooth up the slot. (DONT REBULD THE WHOLE LIP SLOT) not yelling just putting emphasis.
Apply Hide Adhesive to the muzzle of the form. nose lips etc.
Tuck the top lip.
Apply Hide Adhesive to the lower jaw and lip. Tuck as needed.
adjust the lips so there are not any puckers.
Retuck the nostrials.
You may want to pin the lips if not using Epo-Grip HIDE ADHESIVE.
The pressure of the lips slots will hold the skin.
If the skin is not thinned properly it can pull out.
Switching to E-G H A has stopped many problems in the ppulling and drumming area.