sewing deer cape

Submitted by scott on 03/31/2003. ( )

i just finnished my first white tail(look's good to me)the only problem i had was sewing. it took me for ever and i broke at least 6 needles. i could not push the needles through without breaking it. is this normal or was there something wrong.

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This response submitted by Coyote on 03/31/2003. ( )

What kind of needle are you using. I use a 3 point needle that is around 4 inches long.



This response submitted by fred on 03/31/2003. ( )

you broke 6 needel's something aint wright,on a quiestion of
the time that will become faster with alittle more exsperiencand conffidence what i like doing is first around the antler's i use a
6 inch needel and i fold the skin almost flat inter the hide about
1/8 back & insert the needel at an angel &and exit right at the edge
of the hair,then my "V" shape is done, then on my tail i do the same thing exsept i change to a 14gauge 1/2 circle in the same matter,
as i sew 4 to5 stitches then i'll pull them tight and puch the stitch into a clay impression that i cut into the form first ok.

i hope this help's ok good luck


This response submitted by George on 03/31/2003. ( )

I agree with Coyote (I've been doing that a lot lately. I'd better watch out and so should Coyote. LOL) The tri-corner, sail , or cutting edge needle is best for me. Another thing that beginners sometimes do (NO, I didn't SAY you were a beginner)is that they try to push the needle across the grain of the leather instead of straight through it. If you squeeze the hide, it sometimes "slides" in your fingers and the needle has to cut against the grain instead of across it. Also, drag your needle tip across your fingernail. If it doesn't scratch the surface easily, can it and get a new one.

It's not the needle....

This response submitted by Rick Carter on 03/31/2003. ( WASCO )

Scott, The hide is WAY too thick if you are having that much trouble sewing. If you will thin the hide you can easily push practically any needle through with your fingers. If you don't have a fleshing machine it may be time to invest in one.

I like the

This response submitted by LH on 03/31/2003. ( )

tri-cornered S-needle in the 3-inch length on deer. Slip it through, roll the needle over and feed it the rest of the way. As far as sharpening, I keep a whetstone right next to me on one of those roll-away adjustable height trays that mechanics use for their tools. I re-sharpen the point on all three sides before I start each seam, and every 6 inches so it's always super sharp and goes right thru. My biggest problem is the occasional instance where the tannery shaves the hide too thin along the edges so I can't get a decent bite with the cape thread. There is, IMHO, the perfect thickness where too thin and the thread pulls right thru under tension, too thick and it's hard to get it hidden and not bunched up so the hair doesn't want to stand up even with carding. So, I just malletize the crap out of it, card it and forget it. Don't laugh,... it works.

another possibility

This response submitted by Roger E on 04/01/2003. ( )

I can remember when I began taxidermy and had the same problem with dry-preserved capes...are your capes tanned? Bet not...

needle sharpening

This response submitted by Jimmy on 04/01/2003. ( )

keep your three sided needle sharp! I use a diamond dust flat file that you will find at a good fishing store. Works better for me than a whetstone, after all a needle is a lot like a fishhook. Helps to hold it with needlenose pliers so it doesn't roll when sharpening.

Furthermore, like Rick said, its probably that thick tough home tanned, or, gasp, DP'ed hide.

leather punch

This response submitted by mike on 04/01/2003. ( )

i always use a leather punch unless it it a deer that was taken early season and has short thin hair . is there any disadvantage to this

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