I will be ordering a Dakota V fleshing machine in the next day or so and need some information. What voltage is the machine? Is there any sort of warranty, and are there some good instructions included? Do I need to order tuning steels, or is there a set included? Would you suggest ordering the video showing how to use it? ( I have a fleshing and tanning video from McKenzie ) What is the shipping weight ? I know thats a lot of questions, but I am trying to cover all my bases before I order.. I'd love to get the Quebec Lite, but since this is only a part time ( Nov-Jan ) extra money job, I can't afford a more expensive machine right now...maybe in the future when I actually turn a profit LOL ! Thanks!
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and are pleased with it. It came with a turning steel, one year warranty, and a intructional video on how to use the fleshing machine. I'm not for sure about shipping weight, but it shouldn't cost much. I would assume the Quebec is a better machine from all the high praise it recieves from here, but when starting out you buy the best you can afford. Besides it's alot better than a razor blade and fleshing knive. For the price I would recomend it without hesitation.
Brandon Wildlife Studio/ Jerry
That is till Jerry interjected his financial advice. Fleshing machines do flesh and they sure beat hell out of a beam and a draw knife, but most taxidermist use it to SHAVE their hides. "Saving a few dollars" should always be a two edged sword. If you know you can't afford a "GOOD" machine, why bother spending nearly 75% as much on a "BAD" one. Doesn't make any sense to me regardless of the rationale. Deer hides don't HAVE to be shaved for taxidermy purposes and if you're throwing in a few elk, buffalo, and moose, then you're past a "beginner" level and certainly should be investing in quality machinery.
I can't afford a Rolex, and buying Timex's for life will still put me under the Rolex cost, so let's not make that comparison. But I do think that taxidermists should invest their money wisely like they should base their charges wisely. Scalpel blades are "throw away's" but I'd never buy a fleshing machine with that attitude.
Anybody agree that deer hides need to be fleshed and thinned for quality commercial work?
I do a upper end deer head, and can't see how anyone else can do the same quality work, with a hide tanned without proper prep.
George offers up his strong stance on alot of different issues, so I thought I'd get a debate going.
Quality deer heads REQUIRE, thinned hides. Period. Anyone agree?
Anyone else care to comment....
Bobbi, the Dakota V is a very fine machine.If you have never used a machine before,you will have to get use to it,you might cut a few holes, but thats part of the learning process.If you call Van Dykes they will answer all your questions.I am amazed at all of the so called experts telling which machine is better than the other,yes some machines might be inferior,but I can tell you I have both the Dakota IV and Dakota V and they are excellant machines end of story.
Bobbi,
the Van Dykes machine is fine. all of your questions about any Van Dykes equipment will and should be answered by ...Van Dykes. they will be glad to answer your questions and specifics.
The OPERATOR of the machine will have 90% of quality control. The rest is the machine. Practice, practice and do some more practice. In a short time you will learn how to be just as good as some of these "old farts" that spout off here on this forum. Everybody wants to buy the best. If you can afford to buy the "best", than by all means DO IT> the "best" is somewhat realitive anyway!
MOST OF THE WORK IS DONE BY SOMETHING "LESS THAN THE SO CALLED BEST" ANYWAY, SO JUST GET GOOD WITH YOUR TALENTS AND YOU CAN OUT DO SOME OF THE "UPPETY" TAXIDERMIST. Always trying to look more professional than the next person is funny to say the least. Personal talents and skill is something YOU learn. Good equipment is a must. But YOU are the deciding factor. Don't let the people fool you!
ASK Van Dykes OR ANY OTHER GROUP THAT MADE YOUR MACHINE AND THEY WILL STEER YOU IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
Mr. KIM
of the work I will be doing will be whitetail. I'm the only taxidermist in town, and would like to get my quality as high as possible while trying to shorten the time it takes me to prep the capes. After all time is money. I don't take short cuts as I fully pickle, thin the cape ( wire wheel right now...what a mess ) put back in the pickle, neutralize then TAN..I think for the equipement that I have that I turn out good mounts...but...I'm my own worst critic and I always strive to improve my work. Isn't that what all taxidermists should try to do? This year I've vowed to move exclusively to earliners, and get a fleshing machine so I can pick ALL the detail in the forms. Didn't mean to start a debate just wanted some facts on the machine..most of my questions were answered except is the motor a 110v or 220v?
It runs from your standard wall outlet. Take your time with the hides and learn the machine and you will be fine. I started with a Dakota IV but did not care much for it. I ended up buying a Quebec Lite. It was not much more than the Dakota machine.
Todd B
I just bought the IV V combo. I can't believe I waited so long to get a fleshing machine. I did my first deer cape in an hour, including the face. Sure I cut a few holes. Guess I'll get better with time. Go for it, best money I spent in a while. Have fun.
Ive used some of the best machines out there. I own one of the older ones out there, an old, old Quebec. Ill say this, shaving with ANY machine beats the old way, for sure, so if you havent tried others, yours will feel great to you. Im with Ken, they need to be thinned well. I do not flesh with my machine. I shave the skin. I flesh with a beam or knife. Bobbi, enjoy your investment, and RELAX, hon, all is well!
Never quite learned to trust anyone who wants to be addressed by a title instead of a name, but since you took a cheap shot, don't guess it'll hurt too much to get in a free one myself.
Us "old farts" are only passing along information that we've learned the hard way. I was born at night, just not LAST night and I had Dakota machines for years, so it's not exactly like I'm virgin meat here. I don't intentionally bad mouth any commercial product as there's obviously a niche for anything that's been around as long as some have. BUT, the discussion was on cost and the analogy was about difference. Call any commercial tannery and see what they use. There IS a difference in the machines, PERIOD, and we've had much bloodletting over this single issue if you'd bothered to check the archives. With my current machine, I've NEVER cut a hole unintentionally. Some of that may be from 30 years experience, but I'm usually not that lucky. The difference between a low end machine and a high end one is around $400. My statement remains. In for a dime, in for a dollar.
Now to Ken, I'm not sure what a "high end" commercial mount is as I suppose I'm in there someplace. I shave all my hides and I enjoy the look I get, BUT, the statement for a part timer or a beginner still remains valid. No whitetail HAS to be shaved to get a "good" commercial mount. If you are from the southern tier states, I know for a fact that you can actually see light through many of those deer hides when you hold them up to the light. I've done some Florida deer and some Texas deer that made fox skin look thick, so shaving was definitely an option I chose to pass up. And remember, some of us "old farts" were doing deer long before the fancy fleshers ever came about anyway, and museums across this country still have them as an example of what COULD be done without them.
So in defense of my statement, I'll remain adamant. For a part timer, new comer, or beginner, a fleshing machine is one of those things that should be thought hard and long about before investing and that investment should be for long term. If there's any doubt about that longevity, then the machine should probably be passed up and other, simpler options should be exercised. You might be able to use the $500 on more important things.
I'm an "old fart" myself. Mr. Kim is my name. Gee! Hello "Mr. George". Picky arn't we?
Damn, in the big scheme of life, does it really matter? Or must we search the archives for that too?
Tit for tat. One upmanship. If you say so George and all who agree.
Personal choice will still rule in the world and in taxidermy long after most of us are gone and regardless of what WE think everyone else should do.
For what its worth, dont single out George here, because I too wasnt too sure how to take your posting. The limits of the typed word.
Obviously if Kim IS your name, isn't Mr. a title preceding it? Hmmm. Guess I'm just more comfortable without adjectives and I think the only people who ever called me Mr. George were less than 10 years old.
To those that ANSWERED my questions, I appreciate it.
And to think I was going to invite you to a birthday party!
Glad to find out how you really are before such a gastly mistake.
I asked this same question not all that long ago and got beat up pretty bad by "Mr. George" (LMAO)among others. But he has got a point, especially about the archives on this one...there is a ton of info to be had there on these machines. I have to agree with him...now that I have had a chance to use several....sometimes quality gear can help you out and your going to pay some how...either time sewing up holes, constant re-adjusting guides or just a higher price for the machine..don't shoot me...just my thoughts.
Mike