Bottom lip problems

Submitted by Chad Higgins on 02/04/2004. ( )

Why does my bottom lip on deer always seperate(when mounting) or pull down from the top after drying out for a couple of days? I'm a using a wet tan with Tecnaglu.

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This response submitted by g on 02/04/2004. ( )

look to your left ask the orange button

At the risk of my own peril

This response submitted by George on 02/04/2004. ( )

..I doubt the real cause will be found there this time. The REAL reason it separates is because you do what I do. You mount it and often forget about it. If you put a fine roll of Critter Clay in that lip pocket, the problem will be helped. It will be eliminated, however, if you check it EVERY DAY and insure that it's pushed up tightly until it dries. Many of us forget that last step and when we do, we end up having to jury rig it and fill the void with Apoxie.

Put a small roll of Apoxie Sculpt, and make sure hide paste

This response submitted by John C on 02/04/2004. ( )

I use Apoxie Sculpt, it will expand just a bit, also pin with 3-4 pins and lost of good hide paste.

Tend it daily if you use clay of any kind. Also you can use Apoxie Sculpt to repair the area when finsihing the deerhead.

what I do

This response submitted by Tom on 02/04/2004. ( )

I have been cutting the tucking skin off the inside portion of the lower bottom lip (just the inside portion of the lip that we will see) and when you tuck the rest of the lip skin it will pull the lip tight like a wedge to the form on both sides. The theory is less skin to shrink. I promise with a good hide paste and this trick the skin will not pull away.

Maybe not this week......

This response submitted by George on 02/04/2004. ( )

...but I, PERSONALLY, wouldn't recommend that trick. A good tanned hide has very little shrinkage when maintained or as John said, pinned in place. I save things like that one for those hides that someone got knife happy on.

A couple more suggestions....

This response submitted by Kenneth on 02/04/2004. ( )

The skin has to be paper thin to minimize shrinkage.
I over tuck just slightly to compensate for any movement. I use Buckeye Hidepaste Supreme only.
Once tucked, back groom your hair towards the lip/nose. This will cause the skin to lay properly. Most taxidermists do the opposite, and groom everything down and towards the throat/shoulders. This will improperly position the skin and when dry, it will move even more putting too much tension on the lip tuck. This is the same problem people have with tear ducts and briskets. The hair should flow and lay easily into the anatomical feature. Any tight spots or stretched spots to begin with, will drum. All should fit loosely. Good Luck

The only thing you need to do

This response submitted by Matt on 02/04/2004. ( )

OK this works every time without fail. When you tuck the bottom lip and get it set just the way you want it part it just alittle and run a thin bead of super glue between the upper and lower lip line. Then push the lower lip to the upper and let it set up. After you do this make sure you push up alittle extra skin around the chin and put three insect pins in the short hair of the chin, done no more pull away lip line. I have perfected this to the point of which there is no finish work other than a mist of the proper coloration. Good luck.

all those nice answers, but...

This response submitted by Bill Yox on 02/04/2004. ( )

You guys all had good answers, but missed an obvious one. With the softer foam we are using these last few years, many guys run into trouble when they over do the lip slot. Make it nice and tight, and not as deep, so the foam doesnt pull away along with the cape.


This response submitted by Tony H. on 02/05/2004. ( )

Mr. Yox hit it right, dead-nuts on. I've had trouble on my last five heads with that exact thing. I had changed nothing in my mount procedure and was puzzled. Then I pushed up on the "chin" and it moves about 1/4 inch. He's right, my lip slot was too big/deep and it compromises the strength of the new foam just enough.

What tool to use on the lip slot?

This response submitted by Steve Collins on 02/05/2004. ( )

If creating the lip slot then is really crucial and using a lip tucker or modeling tool to creat the slot in the form what tool then would be best used to make a thinnner slot to tuck the skin. I have been using my lip tucking tool to create the slot but it does seem that it might be a bit wide at around 1/8".

A Jigsaw Blade

This response submitted by Headhanger on 02/05/2004. ( )


A Jigsaw blade works well for this. Try it, you won't be disappointed. Good luck.


same tool, but...

This response submitted by Bill Yox on 02/06/2004. ( )

Just dont go so deep, my lip slots are tight. I use the Coombs lip tucking tool to make the slot. Just go in about an eighth deep.

deer lower lip problem

This response submitted by Aaron Honeycutt on 02/07/2004. ( )

Here are a lot of approaches to a problem we have all had at some point. Kenneth is right on -after mounting the face you can insure success by taxiing a bit of chin skin forward. This creates some loosness which takes all the stress off of that lip. Bill's point in not overdoing the lip slott is a vital point as well. Very thin skin, tight lip slott and a "comfortable" fit will beat this problem every time along with a quality adhessive. Enjoy, Aaron H.


This response submitted by Michael on 02/08/2004. ( )

Get you some Epo-Grip and take you some rubber gloves and rub this all through the lip line and over the face area and once tucked its there.I've been useing that for two years now and have never had a problem with the lips moving at all.

Home made tool

This response submitted by Tony on 02/08/2004. ( bidman27 )

I made a tucking tool out of a thin butcher knife. I ground it down on a bench grinder to shape, made the end blunt.The blade thickness is about 1/16 to 1/32. I use a rolling tuck to, tuck the lip. If you just tuck straight in with this thin tool, it will punch a hole in the lip. Hope this helps anyone that hasn't mounted many deer!


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