rack from one deer...cape from another

Submitted by BIG JAKE on 03/16/2004 at 07:51. ( ) 67.32.38.226

hi guys.
im trying to do a full sneak WT mount with a cape from last year and an old rack, but the holes around the bases in the cape are about 1/2 inch farther apart than the bases on the old rack. what is the best way to fix this? i used the orange button, but didnt have any luck.

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Jake

This response submitted by George on 03/16/2004 at 08:24. ( georoof@aol.com ) 152.163.252.164

It's in there but a LONG time back so here goes.

The skin of a whitetail is quite resilient and will stretch or "scrunch" easily. As long as your other measurements are good (and that's VERY important), you need to start with the skull you're using. Build a small "dam" around the antler burrs so the hide will lock under them. Then sew the hide tightly under the burrs. Using a GOOD GLUE, make sure the face has a good thick coating. When the sewing is complete, arrange your anatomical markers properly and the hide will smooth itself out quite well. The temptation is probably to split the rack for you, and though it COULD be done easily enough, I don't think 1/2 inch is worth that effort.


thanks

This response submitted by BIG JAKE on 03/16/2004 at 10:33. ( ) 67.32.38.226

thanks for your help


Use some zap-a-gap under the burrs also...

This response submitted by Bill@Real Life on 03/16/2004 at 22:09. ( ) 24.69.255.237

I have had some luck with this, its like getting an extra hand. Apply a small bead to the antler pedicals under the burr and then push the hide way up and under. Use a probe to get it all the way under the burr. You can only do a small section (3/4 - 1 inch) of hide at a time to get it to sit right but once set, the zap-a-gap will hold it there while you stitch it and as it drys. Leave the seam sections (1/2 inch on either side) loose until the end. Then, just before you do these final sections on either side of the seam, start your stitches (do a few) but leave them loose. Then do the last section and draw up the stitches tight while pushing the hide up under the burr with a probe. From that point on your hide paste will keep things locked down. Hope this helps.


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