Hey, just wondering what tricks you all use to keep the hide nice and tight against the bases? I always test fit the hide in relation to the bases and trim the skull accordingly. And I use plenty of hide paste in that area, then nail it in place with masonary nails. But I still get the hide pulling back on some mounts. Any input?
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before mount dries carefully put super glue along the edge of the hide and hold in place until dry
I had the same problem, I now put a glob of epoxy right between the eyes, sew the hide up and work the glue around the bases, you might also put some Sculpt All around the bases
I use hide paste on the body and Epo-Grip on the face. Works great and keeps the hide snug at the base of the burrs. I just use an awl to keep snugging it into position while the adhesive is setting up. Jeff F.
I have used "Smooth Out" epoxy for years. I apply a small amount up and under the burrs. You have about a three to four hour working time which will allow you to press the leather into the epoxy and position as needed. I have NEVER had the hide pull away using this method. I of course use hide paste on the rest of the form.
As we all know, thin skin shrinks less. And because the skin has been thinned in this area I put a layer of critter clay around the bases under the burr and down the pedestal to regain the original thickness. Apply glue and when dry the skin will not pull away. And you don't even have to nail it. (The only glue I use is Derma-grip....and no pins are needed anywhere, including the face...........that is if you've thinned the skin properly and do not oversize the form)
Make sure the antlers really ARE in the right place. We can force the skin to look like it reaches, but good sound anatomy and placement is the key. If it actually fits, you dont even need glue, although, of course you still use it. I also build up whats lost from around the base on the skull, only I prefer a quick bondo build up as its stronger and fast. The fit, placement and size are the key.
Thanks for the input guys.
I have thought about coating the bone pedicles in glue, then dusting it with sand or something and letting it dry. Seems like the hide paste and hide would stick better since it would be rough. Bad idea?
I recall a seminar at the nationals or world show a few years. It was on mounting a deer head. The following tip I learned made sense to me when I saw it. And I've been doing it ever since. When bringing the skin to the antler base, pull it up past the bases. Then push it down under the bases compressing the skin to where it almost starts to bunch up. If you just pull the hide up to the bases you are stretching the hide and creating an area for the skin to contract and shrink. When it dries it will shrink pull away every time because it has tension on the skin from being streched. Try that tip along with a little hide paste and you will have no more problems. Good luck
When you do your mount and have applied a good hide paste to all pedicle areas (except up under the burrs), then drop a bit of zap-a-gap up under the antler burrs. Push the hide up under and the super glue sets immediately. I leave about 1 inch on each side of the Y cut un-zapped to start my stitching and the drop glue under that area when I pull those first few stiches tight. Then you can use hide nails to hold the hide until your hide paste sets. Your skin has to be thinned though or it may pull a bit if dried quickly. I like this method because I can use clay for rebuilding the muscles/pedicles/ear butts and use a water-based hide paste, which cleans up very nicely if I squish some out.
Thanks.