I didn't search the archives because I thought this would be different. Yesterday I mounted my third Deer. Everything was going great before I dropped an eye, and it chipped the back corner. I was gone to far to go back, so I finished the deer. (I had no other eyes to fit it). I thought/hoped the eye would be be un noticable. But I was wrong. It was worse that I thought.
Does anyone have any Ideas on an approach to fix it . I'm pretty sure it cann't be fixed tottally, but any ideas on patch that would make it bearable would be great.
Also, I re-hydrated the cape the tanned cape (dry tanned), then test fitted the manikin to set the antlers and such. Then I froze trhe cape. Then after about a week, I unthawed it. Put in on the manikin. I had the alter the manakin, but could get it to look right, to I re froze it again. (then ordered another manakin).
then Yesterday I had some sever hair slippage. I first noticed at the back of the cape, But I knew I could not use it , so I did not worry. Then when I finished. I had two more places on the neck. I had been given a spray for this, so I soaked the deer, and today it seems to have corrected the problem.
Did re-freezing twice cause this? This was hyrdated, and frozen and then unthawed twice after the fact. Is this a bad Idea?
Any help would be great
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The multiple freeze is most likely the cause. Look at it this way it was great practice and a learning experience! There is no way I know of to fix a broken eye that will look good. I scratched an eye on a deer before you can spray some gloss on it that will fix a scratch no problem. Another thing I did on a deer once was make a blind eye. I shoot a buck that was blind in one eye. The real eye was all messed up. So I mounted it that way I covered the eye with gloss and painted it to look blind and bluish gray. I think it is one of the best deer I ever did. If I where you I would patch the crack with apoxie sculpt and paint the eye dead. Bet you will get a lot of conversation from your friends when they see it like that. Make up a big story to go with the eye! Hunting is all about tall tails anyway. Better luck in the future and don't drop any more eyes! Oh ya and the hair will stop slipping when the mount is totaly dry. Don't pull at it or groom it until the cape is set hard.
most likely you got a bad tan. With a good tan, you can thaw and refreeze many times with out a problem. If you let the hide sit for days on the table in the bag, it could mold and cause hairslippage. Keep it in the fridge. Call a good tannery and they will tell you the same thing. As far as your eye, don't make a dead eye. Take your clear gloss paint and a small fine tip brush and build up the chip. Do not over fill the chip, polish the eye with a Q-tip after it dries. You can't entirely fix the chip to where it is not visable, but when you hang it on the wall it will be hard to notice it, unless you point it out to someone. Keep your deer as natural as possible and you will be alot happier with it. Take your time with it and you will be able to make it look fine.
I filled it with epoxy, and then took a paint brush with paint thinner on it. It there, but not too noticable.
Thank you for your help.
this cape was ( I will bet you ) tanned (lutan f ) most tanneries use it,remember a tannery and methods of tanning was desined for garment use ONLY. Once the skin is dry tanned and completed,that is itthen sow the skins together and make a coat.Gary you rehydrated a Lutan tanned skin and you wash out all the tanning,so your skin is now " only pickeled " and socking in water or wet to long and yes hair will come out,it will build up heat.I all types of test with my skins,Mike mold all over the skin,and no hair slippage. I will say it again ( EZ - 100 ) and the tanning will not wash out.Do your own tanning.
I dont know of any tanneries that use Lutan, and it darn sure aint most! As for EZ100, it might be a fine product, I dont know. I dont know where you got all your facts in your statement, but someone has been blowing some serious smoke [expletive deleted]! A Taxidermist of any size doesnt have time to play tanner, or perform tests on skins, they are too busy getting mounts out the door! Their time would be much better spent honing his or her craft, rather than worrying about tanning. Who tanned that cape, and what it was tanned with, we might never know.
you guys are great, and I am just a amature. Is it a bad practice to hydrate then Freeze, then thaw, then re-freeze a tanned Cape
thats way you will always be an amature. I don't mean to be harsh, but measuring the cape, ordering your form, getting supplier to get it to you the same day, test fitting, altering and test fitting, prepping the skin, doing ear liners and getting every other thing done right. If you can do that in one step with out refreezing you are a GOD. I guess every national and world champion taxidermist have bad practice skills and not good taxidermy skills.
nothing wrong with being harsh if you are reading before you type.