Hello All:
I was thinking about setting my deer eyes ahead of time in the form using Apoxie Sculpt, and letting it dry hard. I know most of you still use clay during the mounting process to get the right expression you are looking for. I believe you could set the expression of the deer with the Apoxie. I would be trimming the skin around the eye and pin when mounting (just like Eyes-Rite Final Generation mannikins by Rinehart). Let me know if anyone has tried this procedure, and if you have run into problems.
Thanks a ton!
Rob
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It does work. But if ever you have to rehydrate skin around eye to reposition things be warned: Sculpt will not rehydrate.
Especially when it come's to tucking the skin around the eyes. After the Apoxy Sculpt dries and if you didn't leave enough space to tuck in the skin, then your having to trim away the skin to fit. Also after the cape is on the form if there is any adjusting of the eye or reforming a brow to match the other eye, again after the Apoxy dries your stuck with it or will have to redo it over. I like the ability to work the eyes with the flexability that clay gives me.
Coyote
I would bet, based on your post, that you're having a little trouble with tucking the eye skin on soft clay. I did/do too. So try this.
Set your eyes in clay like normal. But instead of tucking just shave those eye areas really well, go right up to the roots of the eyelashes but NOT SO DEEP THAT THEY'LL FALL OUT. Just flesh and thin them as you would for using one of the Rinehart pre-set eye forms. Then apply Epo-Grip hide paste to the clayed eye are as well as the hide itself around the eyes and tearduct area. Then mount as usual. I use ONE PIN in the front corner of the eye and that's usually it. When it comes time to do the eyes just get them in the "general" shape and position and keep checking and adjusting every hour or so. How fast the adhesive "sets" depends on too many variables so check often. I think you'll find that a little easier and still have all the advantages of a soft-clay set.
I wouldn't do this with any other adhesive than Epo-Grip however. I know it's going to hold and I know it will cure slowly enough to allow for adjustment yet "grab" enough to keep things in place.
I have been setting all of my eyes in Apoxie Sculpt for a while now, but not ahead of time. I get the cape up over the form, pull it down the face some, and set my eyes in the Apoxie. Then I GENTLY pull the cape up over the face and align my face details. Pin the incision and go to work on tucking the lips, nose, etc. I wait till the Apoxie starts to set up so its not as mushy then I work on the eyes. Once the eyes are tucked and pinned, then I sew the mount up.
Once that Apoxie sets up with the eyelid skin under it, your eyes are not going to shrink or pull anywhere..
I have used it a while now. Just do your eye work after you put the first few stitches in the seam.
I do things a little different. I prep usually 4 manikins at a time. Rough them up, set antlers, septums, and set the eyes with apoxie BUT I only set the eyes in for position. I do not build the eye lids until just before adding the cape and I use Critter Clay for that. Presetting the eyes w/apoxie guarantees that they do not move during the tucking step and I like having the manikin fully ready to mount once I get to it. Of course apoxie cannot be adjusted once set so it's vital that the position be correct. I use a level to level the manikin and also to check that the backboard is plumb- my floor is not exactly level nor are my mounting stands......are yours? Enjoy, Aaron H.
Rob, yes this method will work. I have done it this way many times. Just make sure that you thin the hide around the eyes very well. I use Epo-Grip and pin the front corner only much like the rinehart method. Watch it closely and make adjustments if needed as it dries.
with good results - i completely set and model eye and then glue with Epo-Grip - Epo-Grip #30 works the best but have used both