A client brought some really big sheds for me to mount (On a deer)
He said he took them to another taxidermist, and they had tried to mount them and couldn't. he said he went over ther to get them back, and they were damaged. I looked at the bottem of the sheds.... the guy has sawed or broke off about a 3/8 inch rod or bolt in the middle of the antler, and had some (2or3) reg sized screws broke off into the base as well, I said I would give it a try, but no guarantees! He said fine, but the guy that was going to mount it before owed him a favor and was going to do it for cost. I told him Sounds like the guy didn't know what he was doing, and may have ruined your sheds!
I am thinking the 3/8 inch rod or bolt is really hard steel, and drilling probably won't work.
So, I am asking you guys what you would do?
these are around 160 inch 6x6 typical whitetail antlers.
OH, This guy is a friend of mine, but I am charging for a cape, that I have to buy, the cost of the mount, and $30 to connect the sheds, because of the big job it will be!
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Tony, If you're sure its threaded rod that was used ,it can be drilled,HOWEVER,holding the antler's steady wont be fun.(clamp them in a vise wraped in cloth mayby?)Threaded rod is grade 2,Low tensil stregth, and fairly soft).Be patient,and make sure you hane the drill centered.It may be possible to only drill in 1/2 " or so and use an "easy out".If the other guy used apoxy on the rod,Ide be sceptical whether, it would turn out though.Also WASCO ,or McKenzie's offers a Shed mounting system that's extremely strong and has nearly unlimited posibilities for positioning the antlers.Around $35 if i remember correctly. Hope this helps . ED
to remove the treaded rod by this method.
If the rod has been epoxied/bondoed in then this should work.
Center punch in the center of the rod. Drill a small hole the size of an ez out. Go to hardware store and buy a set of ezouts if you dont have them. Now, heat a small rod that will fit into the hole. Heat it red hot and insert it into the hole. Let the heat transfer and heat the treaded rod. Do this a couple of times and eventually the glue holding the rod will bread down and the rod will turn out easy. This might help even if the rod is not glued in. This is something I used to do when rebuilding old golf clubs.
If it were me, I would leave the bases as is assuming you cant see the rod from above the crown. Then grind the rod/screws down flush with the antler. I would get the metal shed connector system from any supplier. there is a small brass looking plate that you are supposed to screw into the buttom of the sheds using small screws, then bolt the brass plate to the rest of the assembly. If you can get any of the screws in without hitting the rod or broken screws, good, but i would use 5-minute epoxy or another good glue and glue that brass plate on as good as you can. I would think that you could probably get at least 2 of the screws in, but the glue should hold it good enough. then put the assembly together and position antlers however or let the customer adjust them just right. there are good color pictures of the connectors and how they work on p154 of the newest Van Dykes catalog. Hope this helps
Good idea! I wasn't awake enough to think of heat transfer, sotening the epoxy, LOL
Yep. this is the process for stuck screws and shafts in a wood head golf club. One of my hobbies. In fact I used to have a transformer with 2 probes that I could short to screws and heat them up. They back right out. I would think in this case, if the rod is in the antler only, you could still get it hot enough to singe the bone and loosen the rod.
Doug I will try your Idea, And then I will Try sams on the connectors! Either way, friend or not, hes getting charged!
Thanks again guys!
Tony @ Johnson Taxidermy Studio, East Ky