Deer nose question

Submitted by steve on 7/19/06 at 9:38 AM. ( ) 152.163.100.132

I'm new into taxidermy. I was looking at several of my mounts that my taxidermist has done for me and I'm wondering how he acomplished such a realistic look. HIS deer noses have pinkish tones showing between every nodule, and yet the rest of the nose is black/gray color. I'm assuming that he painted the pink first and must have hand painted each nodule black? Would that be a good assumption.
STEVE

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Probably not pink

This response submitted by Craig on 7/19/06 at 10:03 AM. ( ) 66.66.236.195

Flesh is the color. Yes, after the flesh the other color(s) can be airbrushed on. Very fine detail can be added if you prefer with this method. I like using Paynes Gray instead of black.


How

This response submitted by steve on 7/19/06 at 10:22 AM. ( ) 152.163.100.7

Ok this may seem dumb, but how do you airbrush the grey or black over the nose without covering the very thin flesh color between the nodules you just painted? You must be dang good with that airbrush.
steve


Angle spray

This response submitted by * on 7/19/06 at 10:26 AM. ( ) 66.112.58.120

You'll pick it up easy.


With A Good Aribrush...

This response submitted by Old Fart on 7/19/06 at 11:01 AM. ( ) 64.122.57.69

...Spraying each nodule is not a problem.


i use a brush

This response submitted by Ryan Olson on 7/19/06 at 11:16 AM. ( ryanolson72@yahoo.com ) 70.237.121.103

I go over the lower half of the nose with white, then follow it up with flesh. I paint the top half of the nose with a 75-25 black and raw umber. Then I gloss coat the nose pad with Gary Bowens super fish gloss. Let this dry. Once it is dry then i take a supper soft brush and put warm black on the brush. After you put it on the brush, try to take most of it out with a paper towel. Then go over the area that is flesh colored with the brush. There will only be a small amount of paint on the brush but it will blend very nicely and give you a nice looking nose! If you must, repeat those steps until it matches closely with your referance. Just my way of doing things...

Ryan Olson
Sportsmansdreamtaxidermy.com


paint

This response submitted by larry on 7/19/06 at 1:19 PM. ( gilestaxidermy@yahoo.com ) 68.233.116.234

ok wipe the nose with acetone.if u want spray a fine mist of black,thin a small amount of flesh with waterand brush on the nose pad to highlight the cracks.,remove excess by wiping off with palm of ur hand.
take raw umber and mist the nose pad from an extreme angle .so nt to paint the cracks..
use some hydro mist or top coat n do the entire nose.
using a small brush highlight the nose dimples with modge podge..


That's right, Steve...

This response submitted by Craig on 7/19/06 at 5:08 PM. ( ) 66.66.236.195

as mentioned above with a couple of different methods. I also white out the lower nose then apply flesh to all the cracks and crevices. Then I toothbrush any paint off the hairs. This also softens up the flesh a little. Angle spray the paynes gray but don't apply it straight on or the flesh in the lower areas will be covered up. With a Paasche H-1 you can do any spots you want as long as you thin your paint and keep the pressure at 30psi. I rarely do that as the pattern on the nose dictates how much paint it will accept from the angle spray. I also use a little black on the nostril wings or upper nose. Then it is also blended together with that toothbrush again. A coat of Liquid Crystal seals everything in and gives me a good surface to do the modge podge thing. After the MP is dry, it's another coat of Liquid Crystal and I'm done. That toothbrush works wonders in toning down and blending those colors as well as getting paint off the hairs.


Thanks everyone

This response submitted by steve on 7/19/06 at 9:34 PM. ( ) 64.12.116.7

That really helped to clarify things. You guy's are very helpful.
STEVE


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