PVC Fleshing Beam Picture

Submitted by Matt McFarlane on 8/1/06 at 8:34 AM. ( mmcfa381@uwsp.edu ) 199.131.247.240

I am interested in making an 8" PVC fleshing beam and would like to see some pictures to give me an idea of how to construct one. Please send me pictures at the email address provided and add any comments or suggestions that you may have. Thanks, Matt.

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Matt, it's not THAT complicated

This response submitted by George on 8/1/06 at 11:51 AM. ( georoof@aol.com ) 205.188.116.130

I'll credit Ron Carter with the idea of using PVC. About 15 years ago, I did a layout for Fur Fish Game with pictures, but it's still very simple. I used 10 inch PVC sewer pipe. I put a 6 foot piece on a table saw and cut it in half (made two of them obviously). Then I marked back about 18 inches on both sides. I took a peanut can plastic lid and traced it out on the end in the center. Now connect the 18 inch marks to the edge of the circle you drew in the center. Cut it out with a band saw, sabre saw or a scroll saw. This give you a "rocket tip" silhouette of your PVC. I then built a tilted frame of 2x4s with sawhorse type legs attached to one end. I drilled two holes in the PVC and countersunk them. Using #12 screws, I attached it to the leg platform. Then I took Apoxie and filled the screw holes. When it hardened, I took a piece of emory paper and "buffed" the Apoxie so that it contoured the PVC beam. With the other piece, I put collapsible legs on it so I could fold it up and stand it in the corner until I needed it. I gave the rigid one away as that's a piece of furniture I could do without in my shop. I think that guy eventually put collapsible legs on his as well.


Just an added note

This response submitted by J Best on 8/1/06 at 12:56 PM. ( ) 207.118.200.252

I also used this plan on my fleshing beam and it works great! Once you use PVC, you'll probably never go back to the wooden beam.

The only thing I did differently was to add a heavy duty door hinge at the base of the beam, so I can fold it up against the wall when it is not being used. I have the bottom cut at an angle so when you fold the beam down away from the wall, the angled portion of the beam hits the wall, leaving the beam hanging out at the desired angle and height that I want.

You also will probably want to take a scalpel or some heavy sandpaper and cut in some crosshatches (x pattern scratches) so the beam will not be so slippery, keeping the skin from sliding around so much.


beam

This response submitted by wendell on 8/1/06 at 4:03 PM. ( ) 141.150.254.17

i will send you a picture of the one that i made.


pic please?

This response submitted by Big E on 8/2/06 at 8:40 AM. ( ecmbowhunter@msn.com ) 12.219.64.192

could you post a link to a pic or shoot me an email? Thanx, Eric


Pic

This response submitted by Mike on 8/2/06 at 12:57 PM. ( nybowhunter@msn.com ) 72.80.189.122

Wendell, would you mind sending me a pic also..

Thanks
Mike


Send me a pic if you would

This response submitted by Tim on 8/2/06 at 10:50 PM. ( tjtrostel@netins.net ) 167.142.253.101

Thanks


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