I have mounted 2 whitetails now and have had problems on both with the lower lip pulling slightly out of the slot. The mount dries and then the lip skin is either showing slightly in a spot along the side of the jaw or pulls out slightly next to the lower lip/nose pad area.
Any suggestions on how to lock the lip skin into the slot?
Thanks.
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Or, what are you cutting the lip slot with? Is it dp or tan? what kind of glue are you using? Are you using bank or T-pins to hold the lip in place as it dries? Let us know.
good glue and a tight lip slot, keep an eye on it as it dries also.
and am using apoxie smooth epoxy around mouth & eyes. Tried using pins on last mount. McKenzie tan being used,
Is there a way to get the glue in the slot? Thinking a medium set epoxy should lock the skin in place?
I started putting pins through the lower lip into the form, and crazy glueing the lip right to the nose pad. When dry just scrape off remaining crazy glue away, pull the pins and fill the holes with wax. Viola. Hope this works for you like it has me.
The epoxy I am using is not apoxie smooth. I am using a 2 part epoxy from Van Dykes that has a working time of 3 hours.
Any advice on the best adhesive to use for the lips?
First, when you prep your manikin, make your lip slot straight in about 1/4". Second, apply a very small roll of clay on the manikin's lower lip. Apply your glue and tuck and shape your lip line. After you are satisfied with the shape, taxi the entire jawline foreward to the point where the lower lip is totally closed up. Come back about 1" from the lower lip and place a pin dead center in the chin. Put two more, one on each side of that one about 1/2" apart. Periodically check it until it dries. If it pulls alittle, simply push it back as it dries. Make sure your lip line on the cape is very thin and split completely. When I follow this procedure, I don't have any problems with the lower lip pulling away. I use buckeye supreme as my adhesive. Hope this helps.
Matt
www.wildlifebydesign.net
The only time I use epoxy on a tanned skin is when instaling ear liners. Otherwise I use AFG hide paste on all my mounts. I don't use the McKenzie tan but I have heared that glue doesn't stick to the skin very well. Try to remember that epoxy sets via chemical reaction. It doesn't matter if it is wet or dry. Water based glue dries with the skin so you can still taxi it as it dries. I agree with Matt, except I cut my slot "up" rather than straight in. I then put a small amount of clay over the lip slot and I pin the piss out of the lip line. I also push the pins in all the way, this helps to keep the skin down tight. Just make sure you part the hair when you push the pins in all the way.
Hope this helps ya out some!
Joe
I feel the biggest reason for the lip to move is that the foam beneath it cant support the pull of shrinkage. Glue is one solution, but if the foam is weak, itll migrate...and take the lip with it...or the other way around. With that in mind, I dont like big slots and clay. Theres no adhesion, no support, and no control. Thats just my opinion. I start out with a tight, but very clean (smooth) slot. I also make sure the hide is thin, and the lips REAL thin. When tucking I adjust them well, which I can do easily with that smooth slot. I also tend to over tuck ever so slightly, to compensate for some pulling. From there its simply a good adhesive, making sure the rest of the chin/muzzle area is brought forward, and its a done deal. I dont use pins there either, unless theres damage.
That I use a jig saw blade to cut my lip slot with. It cuts a real thin slot and I can hear the foam squeeking when I push the lip into it's slot. Bill! NO PINS?! I like to get the lips just over paper thin and they still pull just a bit. What do you use to cut the lip slot? I have heard of people just using a sharp knife or lip tucking tool but when I try them, I cut right through the lip when tucking it in. C'mon Bill... own up!
Honest! Like I said, I use a lip tucking tool, the brass one with the wooden handle, and clean the slot up with a very thin semi coarse hand file. It only takes a second. I use an even thinner tool for tucking the lips, but its not sharp and doesnt cut the thin lip skin.
Most times areas pull because your leather is too thick. Also, with a lip it can certainly be because your slot is too big. I use a thin slot, with thin leather, and a good coating of Buckeye Supreme around the slot and in the slot. No problems with lips pulling.