Submitted by SAM on 10/28/99. ( ) 184.108.40.206
I have mounted 20 deer! I want th get the muscle tone in my early archery mounts.
How do you get the muscle tone in the face do you build it up on the form? and if you do what do you use.
I understand thining down the face on the hide makes it easier.
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This response submitted by John C on 10/29/99. ( ) 220.127.116.11
Word of caution is you can over do it. Sand the form removing the smooth slick crust from the form, this opens up millions of pore in the foam. Take a modeling tool and depress the foam on the outside areas of the veins. Now assuming you have Tanned the hide, reason for a tanned hide its it will allow you to glue (dextrine glues are fine) it into place, match up your hair patterns once you are happy with the looks, use bird necking materials to pin down the depressions. Key it use plenty of glue. John C
This response submitted by Sam on 10/29/99. ( ) 18.104.22.168
Forgive me for being a little slow today.
Do you mean the roud necking material you use in the birds Necks?
This response submitted by Tony on 10/29/99. ( email@example.com ) 22.214.171.124
I use a small riffler rasp that I got from McKenzie. It has two different shaped ends on it and I use the small round end to rasp the areas next to the veins and muscles around the mouth and also all of the indentions and details in the form (neck, shoulder etc). I have had great success with this process, along with using my mini-flesher and skife knife to thin the facial area on the cape. As John said earlier, you can overdo it, so be careful. I like to be able to see the veins and muscles in the face, but I have seen some deer that have been taken a bit too far. Hope this helps!
This response submitted by John Bellucci on 10/29/99. ( ArtistExpr@aol.com ) 126.96.36.199
I must say, this has been great advice. Good show gents!
Sam, the neck material in question IS the soft/flexible long round foam used to recreate those bird necks.
You never want to build up a deers' face. Accentuate the detail that is already there as described. Remember, the photos you see of fine-haired deer, are living animals, under natural lighting conditions, that can accentuate the LIVING muscle structure of their faces.
Accentuate the facial muscle details of the mannikin VERY LITTLE ... IF AT ALL! Pasting down the face, and holding that skin in place with fine insect pins wiil allow the detail already sculpted in to show very well.
Good luck to you ... John B.
This response submitted by JimTucker on 10/30/99. ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) 188.8.131.52
All the above advice is correct but be aware that the shorter hair of a early kill will make the musculature of any mannikin more apparent. I find that is not necessary to accentuate the facial muscles at all. If you are not familiar with working on these short haired specimen you could really over do it. Just use an epoxy such as smooth out as a hide paste in the face and the detail will come through with no pinning. I say this because with short hair animals (african/summer deer) the pin holes that you put in are just one more thing to repair. Good luck!!
This response submitted by Tim on 11/8/99. ( email@example.com ) 184.108.40.206
I just last week mounted a short hair cape and found just by rasping the detail
in the face with a stout ruffer and refining it with a piece of sand paper works
great. I use the techni-glue for my whitetail mounts and it holds the detail in
the face great! I do not pin the detail or use necking material. Just work the skin
into the detail as you mount it and continue to do so over the next day or two. You
will be suprised at the results. I would be careful using the necking material on a
wet cap, this traps moisture and leaves yourself open to hair slippage. If you hide
is properly thinned,you rasp the form and have a form that is fitted properly,you
should not have to pin or use necking material to hold the detail on your mounts.
Do not get a bigger form then what the animal is, this is just asking for trouble
Martin's Taxidermy Studio
This response submitted by John C on 11/11/99. ( ) 220.127.116.11
Not properly tanned, Only times I have ever had this trouble is when I USED DRY PRES. years ago. OR did a short cut with LIUQA-TAN. Tan it right and no slpippage will occur
This response submitted by SAM on 11/13/99. ( ) 18.104.22.168
Thank You all
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