detail help

Submitted by skinner on 12/31/99. ( ) 152.163.188.166

I specialize in details and do things on my comercial mounts most guys wouldnt do unless it was on a competition piece or one of there own animals. I was wondering if you can tell me a better way to get muscle detail in the face and neck of a gamehead. The method i use works great but its backfired a few times. I use strips of cardboard and staple them in the details untill the hide paste dries. This was beter than plain hide nails because as the hide dried it would pull against the nails and cause rises between the nails. UGLY. What im doing now works beter but on some older deer with thined out hair the staple holes are easily seen and imposible to hide.UGLYER. I use sally dahmes hide paste,and i mix it thick not runy. Is there a beter paste or am i the problem? I know the staples are a bit much, what would be your devine enlightenment>

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KILLER GLUE

This response submitted by Tom K. on 12/31/99. ( dianne98@alltel.net ) 166.102.152.85

I


KILLER GLUE

This response submitted by Tom K. on 12/31/99. ( dianne98@alltel.net ) 166.102.152.85

I show alot of detail on my commercial work too. I also use Bess Maid D.P. so I need Something strong to hold.First of all the cape needs to be shaved thin ,then I use Killer Glue (2 parts)and work my details on the mount right after mounting,the glue will harden overnight so be sure it,s where you need it before you stop.The glue tacks after 4-6 hours and holds better so I work the details thru-out the day ,till Quitin time.If the hide wants to pull ,then I use Bird neck material with T-pins to hold it in place.(aprox. 1" size)..........Also I add my glue to the form after the cape is placed on the form useing large tongue depresors adding glue to each area as I go. Hope this helps L.O.L...........Tom....P.S. WASCO sells Killer glue and so does McKenzie.


A couple things come to mind, read about your problems

This response submitted by John C on 12/31/99. ( taxidermist118@hotmail.com ) 204.180.103.73

What is your skin prep method? Tanning, dry pres. spray tan, what?

Sounds like you are getting a bit of shrinkage.


1. Sounds like you need to prep your skins a little better. Maybe fleshing some what thinner. Are you leaving the hide to thick?

2. Not using enough glue? DEXTRIN WORKS FINE, KILLER GLUE IS GOOD BUT IT IS NOT A CURE ALL FOR PISS POOR FLESHING and TANNING. If using dextrin are you adding fillers? I dont have any drumming with straight dextrin. So adding Elmer glue will not help only cost you money, it is dextrin based and does not have the adhesion quality of a good dextrin, therefore adding nothing to the adhesion of it.

3. Are you using a form thats a size to big? I try to use a form that is fitted to the tanned cape, for me it must over lap at lest 1/2 inch, at a location behind the ears.

4. Are you pulling to much cape over and off the back of the deer? Try sliding more cape onto the form and trowing less of it away. Slide it up to the ears and work it up the form instead of down. When you have slack you will get less pulling and shrinking. Hope this has helped. John C


Detail problems.....

This response submitted by Kenneth on 12/31/99. ( bauman@caddoelectric ) 206.103.97.177

John C. made some vital points that must be done first. I have tried ever hide paste imaginable and have had the most luck with Buckeye Hide Paste Supreme. I do not use any pins or nails, it just holds well. One other thing to remember, you must separate your commercial time/jobs from competition techniques/peices that take hours or even days. It is one of the hardest things to learn about commercial taxidermy, but I believe you must figure out good methods of separation or it could be hard to survive in the commercial world of taxidermy. This is only a suggestion from past experience, if you are seasoned and this time consumption works well, keep up the good work. Good Luck.


Detail Help

This response submitted by Larry on 12/31/99. ( hidebeak@cpimtermet.com ) 204.220.140.226

Instead of cardboard, try using neck foam material. It doesn't absorb liquids, it is rounded so you don't have any sharp edges like you have with cardboard. pins go through it easily, you can use it over and over, and it's very inexpensive. If you'd like a copy of our catalog, visit our website at www.hidebeak.com (guest book), or call 1-800-777-7916 and ask for one. Happy New Year!


Magic smooth

This response submitted by Todd B on 1/1/00. ( trigger@indy.net ) 209.183.94.74

I use Magic smooth on the face of deer.(not to be mistaken with its
brother magic sculp) I use this on the face and Buckeye supreme on
the rest of the form. I have never had any problem with it. I also
use the Magic Smooth to glue in earliners. Good luck and hope someones
suggestion here helps you.

Todd B


Supreme will do...

This response submitted by Bill on 1/2/00. ( yoxtax@aol.com ) 205.188.209.139

...except for TomK, he is using powder, and Supreme isnt used with that stuff. I find that if the hide wont go into those over done shapes, it might be because it wasnt meant to be that shape. But you can add the detail by moving the skin around, and push it into those areas, it will stay there if it fits. If the hide is too tight, glue wont hold for very long.


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