I am still having problems with my airbrush. I kinda go rid of the run marks but now im getting to thick of lines. Its not that I'm letting out to much paint or air. I tried switching needles and it was almost like it was making 2 lines and it wasnt shooting straight forward out of the needle. It was really weird. I did the adjusting that that nice guy gave me and it helped it a little but its still not making a small line. I hold it probly an inch away from the paper and the line is about 1/4 an inch wide. I had the needle all the way out as far as it could go cause when I would bring it in a little bit it would let out way to much paint and way to big of a line. It is a double action paasche air brush. So I would appreciate any suggestions on what to do to help me out a bit. Thanks for everything.
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When you start painting with an air brush it will take some time to get it down. It sounds like your doing what your suppose to on paper to start. Practice makes perfect. Also make sure your thining your paints. This will help with clogging.
You have to learn a few things here if you want great results. First off I'm not really knocking down your air brush but I have three of them and they just hang or there thrown somewhere. Reason being is they can;t really do what I wanted them to do. Sorry but the only Paasche that's worth anything is their top of the line ones. For my personally their junk. I rather use an Aztec or Iwata's. I have two Aztec's and three Iwata's. There is no comparison to what they produce compared to what you have.
Any way what you have is good for the commercial work. Next you have to learn on how to thin your paints down. The next and one of the most important things is to strain your paints. Little particules can cause havic with your tip. You can use, flow aid, alcohol, or water. Next to that is air pressure. Yes most paint at 33 psi and I do also. On some detailed work I can work from anywhere 10 psi to 60 psi for detailed work. It depends on humidity, and what paint I'm using or what I'm doing. I have my air gauge next to me so I can adjust it at any time to what my needs are.
After you thin your paint down you need to pratice, pratice and then pratice more. If your learning it's nothing to try 2 hours or more a day on learning how to make small dots, fine lines etc.
One other thing I din't like about the bruch you use is that their brass nozzle wears out to fast or if you seat the needle to hard you over size it. If this happens you need to replace it. They just caused me way to much troubles.
Those brushes come standard with a VL 3 tip. I always had trouble over-painting with the VL 3 tip. Now I use a VL 1 on all my fish, except for the really big ones.
Kyle, get a magnifying glass and inspect the tips of the needles real good. Any slight bend in the needle tip will cause you a number of problems. Frank and Jon also gave you some good advice. Good Luck!
Kyle, You should make an investment into your airbrush work by purchasing Fish Taxidermy Manual by Tom Sexton. It is sold by WASCO. The manual gives detailed instruction on paints, proper thinning, how to disassemble, clean and re assemble a pasche VL. Tom teaches you how to produce any number of detail effects and more importantly you will always have a source to refer to when a problem occurs. No airbrush is perfect and all of them have to be tuned and adjusted at some point during their use. The keys I have learned over the years are to be patient, Have good reference materials, understand how paint is made and how the weather affects your paint, and most of all practice with your brush by experimenting on a practice blank. Good luck and BUY the manual, it is worth the money. David, MBT.
As Frank said, for commercial taxidermy your air brush will do the job, practice is the key. (Keep in mind, Frank is on the top of the high end fish taxidermy crowd having taken two 1st places at the World Show this year. Correct me if I'm wrong Frank)
Frank is probably correct in that the Paasche Air Brushes are NOT the best ones out there. But with practice they will perform perfectly fine for commercial taxidermy. The key is to practice and get confortable with one. If you seem to be fighting the air brush then switch.
Cecil uses the single action Paasche (I believe) like myself. And if you've seen Cecil's work then you'll see that the quality of the paint job is mainly due to the ability of the artist, not the air brush he/she is using.
Correction JK, "Practice makes better" never perfect. (Thanks Doug P. for that quote...)
Four first place ribbions with two BOC. Skin mounts and Reproductions. Thanks for the complement.