Northern pike replica

Submitted by Luke on 02/19/2004 at 13:22. ( )

I am almost finished painting this big Pike, but before I gloss it, I thought I would ask you guys if The white vermiculations are a pure stark white?
I misted a little yellow ochre, and gold pearl over the top of the vermiculations on the lower and upper areas, and left the mid section ( just above & below) the lateral line a bright white.
I know they all vary and the references I am using also vary.
I have seen some mounts painted as a hard contrast from the green below with the white very brightly painted over it.
Is this realistic?

Return to Fish Taxidermy Category Menu

Two questions:

This response submitted by Cecil on 02/19/2004 at 21:28. ( )

1.) What do you mean by vermiculations? I'm aware of vermiculations on a brook trout's back, but not sure what you are talking about on a northern. Are you talking about the bean spots? I use an off white on all my fish. Looks more natural that bright white.

2.) You need to look at reference photos and attempt to duplicate them. We can't tell you if it's ok by not seeing the fish anyway. Honest not trying to be a smartass.


This response submitted by Frank E Kotula on 02/20/2004 at 04:58. ( )

Sorry Cecil but look at your reference on this on. Pike have plenty of worm markings or so called vemiculations on the top have of there backs.
When I do them it will depend on where the fish came from. Some waters there a nice green and others are more of a musky green. The markings are painted in first and then I follow back with the greens. It takes longer to do this but the out come is well worth the time. ALso don't foget the tipping of scales and you should enhance the scales with interference gold before you paint your greens. If you look at your reference you will see the gold under the greens.
For the white I usually use bass belly white.

Beans can vary too...

This response submitted by marty on 02/20/2004 at 09:14. ( )

From white to cream and some are silver. And everything in-between. Good reference is the key...

Thanks for the input!

This response submitted by Luke on 02/20/2004 at 10:40. ( )

This fish is definately not your typical Pike. The overall color is what you would see on a Smallie in tanic water.A dark fish. Seemed a bit malnourished as well. 48" length and very sleek. The fish was absolutely covered with what I would say was more like vermiculations as the markings were very large starting at the belly, and defining more narrow and wormlike as they went to the back finally looking just like brookie at the top.
Alot of gold,undertones and a darker green with almost a "paynes gray"
Anyways... I shot the whole fish with Dk. Brn, scrubbed with fine wool then, applied colors as visible in photo, then tipped with silver wax, and edged scales with florentine wax and misted the ochre & brn.
It looked great until I painted the (Bean spots/ vermiculations.) This is where The problem started. I now have a pike with bright white markings over my awesome paint.
I felt like I destroyed it.
My thought at this point, rather than stripping and repainting is to shoot some trans amber oxide, gold pearl,Bronze, and Dk. trans grn over the top of the whole fish concentrating on upper& lower. This will tone things down and blend.The marking were clearly defineable but not bright white.
If anyone can think of anything I may have missed hopefully you can help out. I am having a heck of a time with this fish.
I keep walking away from it, and I need to get it done.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Best regards

Tone down

This response submitted by Frank E Kotula on 02/20/2004 at 11:09. ( )

If there's no browns in the fish then tone it done with the amber and some green. Becareful of not going heavy fot it will ruin it. I wouldn't use gold pearl over it for that can really go to heavy to fast and that will ruin it all.

I see what you mean by the virmiculations now but...

This response submitted by Cecil on 02/20/2004 at 11:30. ( )

In the pike I see and even live ones I have caught in my area, the virmiculations are very subtle and not worth reproducing on commercial fish.

I have been told that "cutting" in the bean spots with a q-tip an acetone or lacquer thinner works on a repro. Haven't tried it yet.

I have

This response submitted by Luke on 02/20/2004 at 20:15. ( )

tried the laquer thinner on a q-tip. It worked okay on that particular fish because the bean spots were quite white. It does define the markings very brightly though, and on this one I need to soften them up alot.
I appreciate both of your help on this one. I will try it tomorrow and see what happens.
Hopefully this one wont end up with an m-80 in it's mouth! :0)
Take care...

Return to Fish Taxidermy Category Menu