A recently painted rainbow (painted in lacquers and glossed with Western Automotive SELECT RS6020 Clear Coat) developed a crack where the artificial head was epoxied to the skin, due to excessive heat where the fish hung overnight. The crack has been repaired with epoxy and the area will be repainted. We are not sure if we can re-gloss the area with out having visible overspray. The automotive clearcoat does not require a reducer or we assume the problen could be solved by spraying some reducer over the overspray area after applying the gloss. Could some other type of gloss be used (water base?). Does the fish have to be sanded (1500 grit?). Should the entire fish be sanded and re-glossed? HELP?
ANY PROVEN SOLUTIONS?
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I do a fair amount of repair jobs similar to the above situation. And yes, it is probably going to be difficult to re-gloss only a section w/o getting dull, adjacent areas from the gloss overspray. I use Triple Thick and since I rarely know what I'm dealing with (existing) materials, I always test-spray an area on the backside first and check it after a day or two to see if the results are what I'm looking for. You should be able to tell from the backside whether or not you can get away with just spraying the area. If not, just spray the whole fish. I don't think light sanding would be necessary as I've never sanded and I have yet to have anything flake off. But, there might be others that have had different experiences with your particular gloss. So my recommendation (if somebody else doesn't chime in stating otherwise) would be to spray the whole fish...
Brush on some Lustre Flex Fin Coating with a sponge brush just in the area you need to regloss. It will self level. The high gloss Lustre Flex will blend right in with the rest of the fish gloss. However make sure you thin the Lustre Flex by heating it a little and stirring it well with a tongue depressor first.
I did this on a caudal fin that had to reproduce for the Indiana State Record that was damaged by the customer. I didn't want to clear coat the entire fish again once I reproduced the fin so I brushed on the Lustre Flex only on the caudal fin and it blended right in with the rest of the fish.
I'm not doubting your method as I have not tried it. But, in the example you give above you have a distinct breaking point which will greatly aid in hiding any defects. I'd like to hear if you've ever had the same results in a scenario that is closer to the above problem. In your example you could've done the same thing with Triple Thick (it's also self leveling and oversray/splash could've been controlled via the clean break at the base of the body/tail). I just know how difficult (if not impossible) it is to match paint or do any type of spray work (gloss) on a car w/o having a clean break point (such as a car door to fender transition). Just my opinion...
Its not like your repairing and painting a 6 foot sailfish . Its a small fish , clear the whole thing . Rick
...Many ways to skin a cut but that's what I would do too...
there is some risk involved. If your application is not compatible you may have to strip and start all over.
Besides, what does he have to lose? He's got to fix the darn thing anyway so he's going to have to re-gloss with something. I don't mean to pick on you Cecil, but sometimes I think you were dropped on your head when you were a child!
Since you know the original gloss used, why not just use that again?