Which airbrush is "best" has been hashed over a plenty and I'm not going there. I just have a question...eh? The Paasche "H" is a single action airbrush that has a dial to adjust the amount of paint released so all the user has to do is press the finger button for air. The Paasche VL is a double action airbrush, but also has a dial just in front of the finger button that will also allow the user to set the amount of paint released. That is a mighty handy feature. Iwata is considered by many to be a very fine airbrush, but to my knowledge all models are genuine double action. That is, the user must have an educated finger to press for air and pull for paint simultaneously. Question; Are there any other makes/models of airbrushes that have a dial to allow the user to set the amount of paint released?
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Has a dial so to sprat at the back or end of the handle that allows you to pre set the amount of pull back or paint flow. I have looked at an aztec and it has a roller in the handle toward the back. I would assume all do, but I now love the Iwata it does everything I can and more.
not sprat. Is that even a word LOL
I have bought 2 airbrushes since I started taxidermy. The first was an aztec which was highly reccomended by people in my area. To say the least it sucked. I felt like every time I painted something new was wrong. I recently switched to a badger and it has been great. The aztec was not very durable and couldn't take shop abuse.
Plug the airbrush you have... Say it's the best and call it a day.
Paasche VL! Best hundred bucks I ever spent!
In all honesty, MOST double action brushes have an adjustable device in them somewhere that gives the user the option to use the brush as a single action. Some are great! Some are bad! Most are just good.
Here is a plug. The VL is a ok brush, I have one and it works ok, but to use it I have to adjust the wheel so it is like a single action. Therefore, it is no worth to me. Infact, I tried to sell it on here at one time.
The Iwata I have is a real good brush. The control of the button is so smooth I don't have to try and set it up like a single action to use it. The angle of the button on the Iwata is a lot better then the rounded straight position of the paasche vl.
Now there is my honest opinion. For me and anyone willing to try one an Iwata can't be beat. I bought my first Iwata about 3 years ago and there is no comparsion between the H and the VL I have. Then none compair to the custom micron I have on order. I used a friends last week that is just unreal. It blows them all away.
I didn't mention the aztecs and the badgers I have tried. They all have sucked.
But to answer your question Doug, Yes all double actions have some type of adjuster on them. The reason I use a double action is simply to be able to blow it out when it clogs and quickly continue working. The right mixture in you paints will make some single actions spray just as fine a line, just not as long. You will be well pleased if you decide on the Iwata, its a very good brush.
then again, I have more than once wanted to take the B.F.H. to all of my brushes but, that was mostly my fault with bad mixing or a dirty brush. Take care of these two details and they all are the best. Badger makes a brush( atleast they used to) named WREN and it is a single action that works well.
As Joey mentioned the Iwata HP-BC has an adjustable knob on the barrel for paint flow. My 1st air brush was a Paasche VL, I bought 7 yrs. ago. I still use it, but not for detail. I was able to get much better control / detail with the Iwata HP-BC.
Also, I read of others using paint brush or Sharpie pen for spot detail, which is fine. I have found that I can paint much faster (spot detail), using the Iwata, with a "softer" affect. The address below shows a Rainbow trout that I recently finished this way.
For what its worth...
Try a RichPen. The VL, H, and 150 badger that I have already don't hold a candle to the single and double action RichPen that I just bought.
Bearair.com has a great little brush that has been abused my yours truly for a long time, and sprays great. They claim they are made in the orient as well. If you don't want to shell out for an Iwata, you might try Peak.
I can actually get much SMALLER spots than that with the soft edges with my cheapo Pasche H and a NUMBER 3 TIP! It all comes down to how comfy you are with the airbrush and how well you learn the little tricks. To get those tiny spots with a medium tip all I do is turn the PSI to about 30 (sometimes higher!) and nearly close the tip all the way. Thin the paint of course, but not that much (you don't want it to run) The goal is to push a ton of air thru there with very, very little paint. And you've got to keep the paint flowing otherwise clogging is an issue (many give up here). The tip is perpendicular to the fish and only a millimeter or two from the fish and I simply hit the plunger quickly to form the spot. Sometimes you'll get a "splash" mark and this would indicate that the paint is too thin. The paint (I believe) is actually hitting the fish almost dry. I get SO close to the fish I sometimes hit the fish with the tip. With replicas this can cause a scratch right down to the white. But, it is easily fixed with a SPOT - lol!
I use the artist's brush for spots like on a King salmon. Their edge is much sharper and I cannot imagine anybody replicating these with an airbrush. I'm sure there are some, but I don;t think I could do it. Maybe with a number 1 tip - but that is STILL in it's brand new package!
The greatest thing about this simple little reliable air brush is just that. It never breaks unless I drop it. And, with the open cup it's got to be the quickest as far as clean up goes. I'm still using the same tip/set up w/o taking apart and cleaning and I've probably got 10 fish painted with it. For COMMERCIAL taxidermy I cannot see a need for anything fancier. But again, I believe it all comes down to personal preference and ability. Stick a straw filled with paint in Gary Bruch's mouth and he could paint the Mona Lisa...
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