Week 27! Lots of great answers last week! Good Sunday Morning to one and all! Lots of really cool changes coming down the old line with the forums Pictures and a new look! Maybe we will be able to incorporate questions with pictures! It is all good for sure!
I thank you and WASCO for letting me share in my passion "FISH! As long as you keep answering the questions, I will keep writing them.
So with out further ado! Lets Get the morning stared to a new week with some fish/ taxidermy talk! The good people at WASCO give us the free opportunity here to share information so we can be better-informed taxidermist! So in the spirit of WASCO generosity we share freely with each other!
1. How much should you go up in price and when should you do it? How do you determine how much and how do you introduce it?
2. How do you know when a fish is dry, Bass and salmon?
3. How do you go about making your vermiculation on your brookies and Lakers? How do you determine what they will look like and how to make the colors look real to you?
4. One or the other...as a beginner what would you really want to ask a pro? As a Pro what would you like to tell a beginner?
5. How do you make teeth on a fish or a reproduction look real? How do you do it and what do you use?
6. What color yellow do you use the most and why?
7. Do you paint with other mediums of color other than traditional airbrush paint? If yes what are they and how do you use them?
8. What is the purpose of each fin on a fish? Describe what they do and why? How does it apply to taxidermy?
9. Do you tip your fish? How do you go about this part of painting?
Bonus Question
10. You just got your first really big salmon or Muskie size fish in. It is the biggest fish you have ever had brought to you. Remember this day? Tell us what you felt and how you feel now about it? What are some things that may help some one who will get a big fish in some day?
Uncle Daves Extra bonus question. If you were to go to a county fair and have your work judges what kind of a scone would you bring the Judge? LOL I couldn't help it Dave! LOL! How was the Sockeye Fishing BTW?
I would hope it goes without saying that I may not have a an answer your looking for but some one on here will! Feel free to write me or call if you have a question and maybe it will end up here to others who want to know the same information as you.
Give it a shot!
Any one who emails me personally with the answers will get a few free reference photos from my personal collection. I still want you to answer here so other can benefit form your input on this topic line.
It is all because of you and your awesome replies this has become so successful!
From beginners to the seasoned pro's every one contributes and all benefit from your great experiences! Let see if I we can get more responses on the forum as well as in my email. I will give you some free fish reference photos for the asking just for contributing! As always I just think your answers are so good more and more contribute on here for all see!
My Best and have fun with this!
Rick Krane
Anglers Artistry
312 Chesterfield Rd
Hinsdale, NH 03451
603.336.7296
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Rick, the Sockeye fishing was great, and the catching wasn't too bad either. We ended up with 14 fish between 5 and 7 pounds, which was 3 1/2 limits for 4 guys. Most were pretty bright with one slightly darker buck. Fresh Sockeye fillets on the grill are gooooood - LOL!
1) I see raising prices from two different perspectives, the first of which everyone needs to do periodically which I'll call a "maintenance" price increase and the second type of increase which I'll call a "quality" increase. In regards to the first type of increase, one should annually survey their potential increase in operating costs and slightly raise prices to at least match inflation, which is roughly going to be in the 3% range, but your unique situation may be slightly different. Most all of your customers should understand the slight increase and they will also generally accept the increase with maybe a little grumbling and overall minimal to no loss of your client base. The second increase is very different and is based upon your desire to incorporate new techniques and experience into your work which will increase your per unit production cost (i.e., more time spent per piece on increased detail). There is no set time to do this other than your desire and seat-of-the-pants feel for the marketplace, although if you are running a longer than average backlog this will give you a little cushion to let the price increase take hold and give you some time to market the new quality and price without a detrimental drop in workload. I have continually increased the time I spend per fish on detail over the years and my price has continually increased correspondingly, so I know it works. If you do this sort of increase, you have to believe that there is value in what you produce in regards to your time; you have to be willing to be on the cutting edge and have the fortitude to take risks in the marketplace; and you have to understand that with a larger than typical price increase you will lose a number of your old clients but will earn a number of new clients through proper marketing of your "now higner quality" work. How much you go up is based upon your own calculations of how much more time you spend per piece, although I have increased prices upwards of $2-$4 at a time (as a footnote for a baseline gauge, I started out full-time at $9 per inch for a basic wall mount in 1987 and am now at $35 pi and looking to go up). Marketing for your established clientele is a reasonable task if they value the work you do for them already and you can point out why your work is now better than it was before (they have to think that you do "great" work rather than just "good" work), while new clients arriving at the new prices will come through word-of-mouth and types of advertising where you can get both your fish and yourself in front of potential clients so that you can personally sell your work and your passion for what you do.
2) I can usually tell a Bass is dry by the lack of coolness/dampness of the gullet area if using the real head, or the heaviest bone structure (collar area) and fin bases if using an artificial head. On Salmon I always use cast heads so the fins (if not using cast fins) will be the last thing to finish drying so I let that be the indicator. With salmon, though, I guage whether or not it is ready to finish by any potential oil seepage which can take place even several weeks after the skin is already dry - so I let them sit/hang longer than just until they are dry.
3) Uh, yeah...I've only done one Brook Trout and two small Lake Trout long ago, although I do some Dolly Varden and Arctic Char. To answer the question though, from someone who tends to be a painter rather than a tinter, I would develop a high contrast between the light and dark areas early on in the process (using an airbrush) and then work to tone and blend them as the painting process continued towards completion. It is kind of hard to explain, but I also think that darker hues should be layered to soften the harshness of light colors, and lighter hues should be layered to soften the harshness of dark colors. In between the layering of said colors I'd also detail the light areas with maybe even lighter colors, and the darker areas with maybe even darker colors, all the while trying to pay attention to reference of course. Some of that detailing may also be done by hand brush, but most of it could be done with an airbrush.
4) As a pro I would like to convey to the beginner that by working with fish you are working with something that has an endless number of flowing lines to its form/structure. If you don't work with a respect for these curvatures, you will detract from the naturalness of your work.
5) For teeth, depending upon the species, I will use either sand, clear silicone, polyester resin thickened with cabosil, shaped polystyrene plastic stock, real teeth and/or teeth patches, casts of teeth, and sometimes a combination of these. Rough, short teeth patches are handled by spreading white glue in the shape of the patch and then sprinkling sand into the glue. Teeth made from silicone or catalyzed thickened resin are formed by touching a gob of material to the tooth base location with a flat instrument and pulling it away, then further teased into shape and length until set (if necessary). The bigger or wider the flat instrument (I use screwdriver blades), the bigger the tooth you can make. For teeth that I shape out of styrene stock or use the natural teeth (like Muskie/Pike mandible teeth) I'll just super glue them in or set them into sculpting epoxy. The coloration of the teeth can be even more important than the material they are made from. With smaller teeth I like to paint them a base color, and then give them a dark wash in the recesses and dry brush the high spots with a lighter color. With larger teeth I paint them their neutral color and then use an airbrush to paint the base a different color and the tip a little different color (again, according to reference).
6) I mostly use Cadmium Yellow since it is kind of a neutral yellow. I will then darken, brighten, or intensify it on the fish with other colors.
7) I use silver Treasure Gold wax applied with a hand brush to lay down my first layer of scales on bright fish; irridescent powders applied wet for scaling and dry for zones of shimmer; and Liquitex acrylics for hand painting on scales, as washes, for dry brushing, and for creating surface texture. This is for my basic commercial fish, but that doesn't stop me from experimenting with other things and eventually either adding them to the process or writing them off. I'll also rarely use some plastic model acrylic colors for hand painting scales (Dorado spots also come to mind as well as darker scales on a lighter background for spawning salmonids) and some of the rub-on paints for creating mottling.
8) Fins such as the dorsal which are placed near or on the center of gravity of the fish are used as keels to prevent rolling (tipping side to side) and yawing (sliding sideways). Fins at the rear of the center of gravity such as a soft dorsal and anal fin are used as stabilizers and rudders to stabilize movement and to aid in change and control of direction of movement. The caudal fin at the rear most part of the fish is used in a locomotory role to efficiently transfer thrust. Those fins at the front of the center of gravity such as the pelvics and pectorals are likewise considered rudders to change or control direction of movement. The paired fins also control pitching (tipping up or down) of the fish during locomotion and play a part in braking. The paired fins of more advanced fishes such as a Bass work together for precise movements within a small area of the aquatic environment and are therefore placed near each other in the thoracic region. With less advanced fish such as trout and pike, the pelvic fins are placed near the center of gravity so that they also serve a purpose as a keel in additon to their role in braking. Notice also the near vertical placement of the base of the pectoral fin in Bass and the near horizontal placement of the base of the pectoral fin in Trout. These differences, along with the pelvic fin placement location difference, signal that the Bass is a fish that fills a role of being able to make small precise movements while the Trout has its paired fins placed for use in long range swimming or constant current environments. On a Pike, the far rearward location of the dorsal and anal fins allow them to also be used for thrust in addition to their stabilization and rudder roles since they are specialists at quick acceleration as lie-in-wait predators. Fins are not decorations on fish - they are role-based appendages and it is a must for the fish taxidermist to understand their use if one is to create fish mounts that are naturally believable. This also goes back to my answer to question #4, since a fin extended or relaxed inconsistent with the movement portrayed by the body position will stick out like a sore thumb and will not have the flowing lines that we are looking for.
9) Yes, I tip the majority of the scales at least twice, and some three times on brighter (silvery) fish. For end stage spawners I might only tip them once, some twice. The first layer of scales is with silver wax just after the fish has been airbrushed with base colors (if it is a bright fish, otherwise with a darker acrylic color on lighter base colors for end stage spawners). On the final layers on a brighter fish I'll tip with iridescent powders suspended in clear acrylic gloss and with some acrylic-based shimmers and iridescents.
10) The first time I received a very large specimen, I was overwhelmed by the sheer "awesome-ness" of such a remarkable specimen. That turned into a concern that I would be able to succeed in a manner that would do the fish justice. If I had any advice for someone who will be faced with the job of working on a large specimen, I'd tell them to remember that they will be getting more money for this project just by its size alone, so that will give them some freedom to take their time and think about the steps that will need to be taken to deal with an extreme case that regular techniques may be limited on, as well as to relax and enjoy the process. You don't get the true "dandies" in every day, so make it worth the effort.
Extra Bonus) I'd give the judge a scone that had real thin jelly so that if he dripped it on the fish while judging, the jelly would slide off easier without leaving too much residue. LOL!
1. How much should you go up in price and when should you do it? How do you determine how much and how do you introduce it?
That depends on some factors. Quality is number one. THe next is your overhead. In reality that is the main one on price. You have to figure that in to make ends meet, The other is profit. As gas prices go up so should our work, if you don't than your making less money. That's one way to explain it to your clients.
2. How do you know when a fish is dry, Bass and salmon? I touch it and if it's dry ok LOL. No I hang my skins near my oil furance which dries my skin for me. The temp is around 80* and I know I let them hang there for about a week or two before I begin any work. One week for smaller fish and a min of two for the larger ones.
3. How do you go about making your vermiculation on your brookies and Lakers? How do you determine what they will look like and how to make the colors look real to you?
Thin paints and the process begins with making them first, not the whole color but my base. This is very inportant to get the depth and life like look. I start with the bottom colors and work out that way. I learned this from Ciril Smith of Colorado.
4. One or the other...as a beginner what would you really want to ask a pro? As a Pro what would you like to tell a beginner?
Learn your air brush inside and out. Paint on pratice sheets for two weeks straight before you begin to paint a fish with detail. Also learn how to thin your paints to get that detail plus work with different air pressures. I paint fish from 20 psi to 45 psi. It all depends on what paint I working with to get what I'm looking for.
5. How do you make teeth on a fish or a reproduction look real? How do you do it and what do you use?
I do use Epo-Grips fish tooth on my commercial work. It works great and using a pin to recreate the teeth by presssing in the epoxy and then pulling it up and in to curve the tooth.
For competition I use clear resin and mix it with cabosil and apply it the same.
6. What color yellow do you use the most and why?
I can't really say I use them all to get different tones.
7. Do you paint with other mediums of color other than traditional airbrush paint? If yes what are they and how do you use them?
Yes, pencils, dry and wet metalics, make-up, dry pigments.
Pencils,and wet metalics are used in one of the first steps pior to painting and then through out the process I use the other mediums.
8. What is the purpose of each fin on a fish? Describe what they do and why? How does it apply to taxidermy?
Dave said it best
9. Do you tip your fish? How do you go about this part of painting?
Could be with pencils and or wet or dry metalics. It goes through out the whole process .
Bonus Question
10. You just got your first really big salmon or Muskie size fish in. It is the biggest fish you have ever had brought to you. Remember this day? Tell us what you felt and how you feel now about it? What are some things that may help some one who will get a big fish in some day?
I was very excited but you can't show that to your client. You show them how happy you are for them and how your going to process this fish to make it look good for them. I explain the whole process to them on how I carve the body and cast the head and fins to make it as actuall size to the fish with out having that much shrinkage.
Uncle Daves Extra bonus question. If you were to go to a county fair and have your work judges what kind of a scone would you bring the Judge? LOL I couldn't help it Dave! LOL! How was the Sockeye Fishing BTW?
Rasberry...
1. I go up almost yearly and I do so using a profit margin calculation I was taught in a business course.
2. I usually watch the throat area in my fish that use natural heads and I use art heads on alot of fish so they are dry in 2 to 3 days.
3. I follow the natural markings and lighten them before I seal them. I airbrush them in.
4. Tough question. If I was paying the pro we would get into the weeds. otherwise, with the few "Pros" that I know personally, we would talk about fishing, archery, world events or our faith.
5. Epo-Grip tooth epoxy that I precolor. Sometimes I go back to cabosil and resign with a plastic bag.
6. Cadmium Yellow - good intense yellow that can be tinted and changed without getting too muddy.
7. Createx is my personal favorite with Wildlife Colors coming in 2nd. I still like the bleeders polytranspar puts out. I use a ton of different media to include eye shadow colors. If I see something while looking around I try it.
8. Difficult question. Most fins are used for directional steering with the tail being the source of propulsion. The adipose usually just catches a ride. Dave Campbell did a terrific article on fin function a few years back. He knows more about fish then any one person I know.
9. Yes, on wholesale once, on retail and comp I tip some fish 3 times. I use waxes, paints and some eye shadow colors.
Bonus Question
10. I would replicate it... if the customer insists I would skin mount but only with a cast head and fins/tail. I do have a special process that I use to degrease the big oil buckets. Seems like any more most of my work comes in from word of mouth.
DaveT
Good morning Rick,
I just got my internet access back after a series of heavy storms last night. These questions are my first action for the morning.
1) I go up about 5-10% every year. I guess that covers the increased costs of materials and shipping. "Introduce it"
I'm the boss and I just do it.
2) Bass...when the inner mouth and throat are dry.
Trout... when the leading edges of the fins and tail are
hard and shrunken.
3) I can't hold an airbrush steady enough to use it for them so I have adapted a few other tools for the job. I use cosmetic applicators a lot.. Sometimes I mist on a darker color and then remove it over the vermiculations with rubbing alcohol(I use water based paints) or an electric eraser. What they look like is determined by what it already there. Layering of colors punctuated by gloss to get depth is extremely important.
4) Well, I'm not a beginner or a pro. I guess I'd ask them both..." Are you having fun?"
5) Dob on the tooth material with a toothpick and draw it rearwards. Nothing looks worse than teeth that point up/down or just slightly so. And the angle needs to be similar on all of the teeth. Several commercial "teeth"epoxies turn yellow in short order and so the teeth must be painted. I think I will be changing to straight silicone caulk.(Cecil's recommendation).
6) Golden yellow. Some amount of yellow is found on most freshwater fishes.
7) I use ball point pens(gell rollers) in lots of metallic sparkle colors for scale detailing. I use irridescent powders(pearl-ex) for scale detailing too. I also use embossing powders(super fine glitter) for scale detail work. IMHO "scale tipping" is a complex procedure, not just painting the rear edges.
8) Pectoral = balance and steering. pelvic = balance.
Dorsal = balance and protection. anal = balance.
Caudal = propulsion, steering, and balance. Adipose =?
One might want to curve the rear edges of the anal, pectoral, posterior dorsal, and caudal fins to create the illusion of turning. Fully flared flat fins are most common on customer mounts. Flagged fins are frowned on by taxidermists, but you do see them that way on live fish at times...eh?
9) Absolutely. I usually paint all of the scales on the top half of a fish.The entire scale gets paints a suitable dark color. Then the rear half gets a lighter shade of the same tone, fading into the dark tone at the front. Finally, the rear edge is given a bright metallic/irridescent application which is blended toward the front. We all know what scales look like and if a fish is not tipped, it turrns out to be rather BLAH and bland looking. Scale painting takes lots of time, but most customers appreciate the look. My prices cover my extra time.
10) My first feeling? "Wow. I hope Cecil will agree to do this for me!"(LOL) If I tackled it myself I'd advise anyone else to be sure you can carve in case a form that big is unavailable. I'd advise them to know how to degrease a giant specimen, and I'd tell them they need some kind of mounting stand or base to help hold such a big fish while they are working on it. IMHO a huge salmon would be a lot easier to work with than a huge muskie. That immense head is a real issue, and with a salmon an artificial head would be used.
Man Rick, that's all my finger can handle for a spell. Have a great day.
Doug
Rick...
Here is my take...The fin question was a good one! I might do a future article in Focus for that...I might even get Dave to do it!
Thanks for everything!
Ken Darville
International Wildlife Design
1. How much should you go up in price and when should you do it? How do you determine how much and how do you introduce it?
I periodically re evaluate direct and indirect costs associated with my work. When There are more than one element that make up each of these cost categories and when there is a spike in one, I determine the percentage of increase and adjust accordingly. I classify labor separately and adjust it with an annual cost of living increase that is inline with or just above the rate of inflation year to year.
2. How do you know when a fish is dry, Bass and salmon?
When the throat is dry on a bass or any fish where I use the real head. Salmon and trout I use artificial heads. I just give them enough time and circulation of air and its usually pretty easy to tell if they are dry.
3. How do you go about making your vermiculation on your brookies and Lakers? How do you determine what they will look like and how to make the colors look real to you?
I don't do a lot of those anymore. Used to and I would study the reference very carefully, study the markings on the fresh fish (if possible) and when it came to execution time I would lighten those markings first and then come back with the correct colors at the appropriate time in the process.
4. One or the other...as a beginner what would you really want to ask a pro? As a Pro what would you like to tell a beginner?
I come in contact with a lot of beginners...on the internet, phone calls, email and those who come down to our courses. I may not always give them the best advice, though I try, but one thing I do try and convey to new taxidermists is to learn to interpret what your looking at and I use geometry for that purpose a lot. You should try to establish a relative comparison of what you are looking at to something else that you are familiar with and with that develop for yourself a measureable standard. Without this type or a similar approach, it is possible that there are things that you may never see. If you cant see it, you cant replicate it accurately.
5. How do you make teeth on a fish or a reproduction look real? How do you do it and what do you use?
I have always used a thick clear silicone caulk. I lay them in one by one with a wire, touching the spot and carefully puling it up to create the peak.
6. What color yellow do you use the most and why?
I usually only buy candy bright yellow. I do a lot of mixing of paints to achieve the basic shade that I use. I can opaque it out and go from there.
7. Do you paint with other mediums of color other than traditional airbrush paint? If yes what are they and how do you use them?
Occasionally I use different mediums as a vehicle with dry pigment or maybe treasure gold to detail. I sometimes just use dry pigment as a rub to highlight scales.
8. What is the purpose of each fin on a fish? Describe what they do and why? How does it apply to taxidermy?
For sake of time and space, I think I will defer to Daves answer on this. Sounds like a good subject for an article.
9. Do you tip your fish? How do you go about this part of painting?
Honestly , on commercial warmwater fish, no other than as a dry rub prior to the final color that I would use to slightly darken and blend the side with. Competition fish or special jobs...yes. I would use treasure gold or develop a medium using an appropriate vehicle and dry pigment.
Bonus Question
10. You just got your first really big salmon or Muskie size fish in. It is the biggest fish you have ever had brought to you. Remember this day? Tell us what you felt and how you feel now about it? What are some things that may help some one who will get a big fish in some day?
Ive taken in a lot of really big stripers, redfish and salmon in the past. Honestly, I don't know how I felt the first time I got one of these brutes. I imagine I was pretty impressed. The only thing I think I would tell folks any different is to charge accordingly...it is a much bigger and dirtier job and make sure you stick with what you know...if you screw it up, you are going to have a hard time facing the customer or replacing it.
Uncle Daves Extra bonus question. If you were to go to a county fair and have your work judges what kind of a scone would you bring the Judge?
A good one!
1.I usually will go up every year or 2. This has been always the way we have done it over the years.
2.I determine when a fish is dry by making sure the throat is rock hard and the fish has no odor to it. If it smells kinda fishy its not dry. I don't do skin mount salmon anymore so it doesn't apply here.
3.The vermiculations on Lake trout and brook trout I try and do mostly with the airbrush when I can because its faster but I do some hand painting with brushes also.
4.I would want to tell a begginer to always be patient especially when your doing fish. Speed is not a good element starting out. Take the time to study before you go about doing things.
5.On reproduction fish I use a Bondo/Gelcoat mix. I add the gelcoat to a small amount of bondo mix in some hardner and apply to the jaws of the fish with a pencil to desired length.
6. Medium yellow because of its versatility that you can add or blend into most fish species.
7. I have used nail polish on fish before believe it or not and i usully stick with the airbrush paints now unless Im in a pinch my friend works at a paint store so sometimes if I need a big quantity of pigment such as for a sailfish or something I will mix my own.
8.I would say all the fins have a purpose in Balance, steering a propulsion I guess it would vary from species the exact purpose of each. But what the heck is with the adipose fin on trout and salmon? Anyone give me a clue on what purpose it serves?
9.I do tip sometimes with paintbrushes and marker pens.
10.Don't really remember the first big fish I did was probably a pike as we used to do a ton of them. You can't let the big ones overpower you. Just take your time when skinnnig them out as their just bigger not different.
1. How much should you go up in price and when should you do it? How do you determine how much and how do you introduce it?
Ideally your prices should gradually go up over a period of time so it's not a shock to your repeat customers. Howvever I haven't increased my prices in at least 10 years at $11.00 per inch. I believe too many taxidermists increase prices as a kneejerk reaction to too much work or they don't think they're making enough at some point. I have found many of us are not as efficient as we could be and I firmly believe we can increase our efficiency (not cut corners), and make more that way. Although I haven't increased my prices in at least 10 years I am still higher than many in my area on fish.
2. How do you know when a fish is dry, Bass and salmon?
I typically check the throat area a bass but since I use artifical heads on my salmon I have learned from experience how long it takes for the skin to dry.
3. How do you go about making your vermiculation on your brookies and Lakers? How do you determine what they will look like and how to make the colors look real to you?
I use a reverse pattern on my brook trout back yellow vermiculatons as most of the vermiculations I see out there look painted or too harsh -- expecially the repros. I lighten the dorsal area with yellow ochre with a slight gold base and paint in the black borders of the yellow vermiculations. This then creates the illusion of the yellow vermiculations inside the black markings and the fish looks much more natural. Looks just like the real McCoy IMHO. Sometimes I get lucky and all I have to due is enhance the yellow vermiculations instead of painting over them. One thing I see a lot of on brook trout which bugs me is people think they have to repaint every i.e. one of the yellow spots on the side of the fish. If they are still there I would rather enhance them by shading vs. repainting each spot. I've always been a believer is enchancing what's there reather than repainting everything. I guess I'm more of tinter than a painter.
On lake trout as in a crappie I prefer to paint as little as possible. If I have to recreate the spots I use retarder with a #1 tip and go real easy.
4. One or the other...as a beginner what would you really want to ask a pro? Ask a Pro what would you like to tell a beginner?
I don't know what your definiton of a pro is but if it's someone that has paid his dues and has his skill level high enough to do quality work than I would tell a beginner to hang in there and keep plugging away. Also don't be intimidated by those who fell they are the "elite" that tell you that you have to be supremely artistically talented to achieve a high level of success in taxidermy. I may be wrong but I believe like everything else taxidermy is 90 percent inspiration and 10 percent talent. It can be learned absolutely.
5. How do you make teeth on a fish or a reproduction look real? How do you do it and what do you use?
Believe it or not I've used clear silicone with good results. They are initially rubbery but after I put on my automotive clear coat on they stiffen up as much as resin made teeth. I'm leary of some of the mixes out there as some of them can yellow over time. I've used them all, along with making my own mix with resin and cabosil, and the silicone I'm happiest with. However on my commerical fish if I order a head I have the Bill Leech of Caribou supply put the teeth in for me. He does it for a couple of bucks and it's another thing I dont' have to waste time on.
6. What color yellow do you use the most and why? I use bright yellow alot but copiously. I also use Yellow Ocre at times too. I used to use Candy Bright Yellow a lot but found due to the fine pigment it's not as long lasting as the Bright Yellow. I've actually had it disappear on a fish after the clear coat or had it fade over time.
7. Do you paint with other mediums of color other than traditional airbrush paint? If yes, what are they, and how do you use them? Not too much unless I am competing other than silver and gold scale tipping waxes. Then I do a lot of experimenting.
8. What is the purpose of each fin on a fish? Describe what they do and why? How does it apply to taxidermy? I too lazy to answer this one. I can tell you I've actually caught bluegills that have had their caudal fins bitten off my muskies and the area healed up and the fish compensated just fine. Of course the knowledge of what fins do and their purposes is important to recreate them naturally but from my experience from watching fish they seem to be able to do just about anything with their fins. If you would reproduce some of these things they probably wouldn't look pleasing though.
9. Do you tip your fish? How do you go about this part of painting?
I tip my largemouth and smallmouth with gold scale wax above the lateral line with an fine artist brush. I do it before I even paint the fish due subdue it a litte. I alse scale tip chromish salmonids with silver wax.
Bonus Question
10. You just got your first really big salmon or Muskie size fish in. It is the biggest fish you have ever had brought to you. Remember this day? Tell us what you felt and how you feel now about it? What are some things that may help some one who will get a big fish in some day?
That was 24 years ago. I can't even remember what I had for lunch yesterday! Sorry!
Uncle Daves Extra bonus question. If you were to go to a county fair and have your work judges what kind of a scone would you bring the Judge? LOL I couldn't help it Dave! LOL! How was the Sockeye Fishing BTW?
Probably a splash scene of a bass jumping out of the water complete with lily pads. That always intrigues people. Or my 6 lb. 4 oz. brook trout in a shadow box or my "unoffical state record perch."
Sorry,Cecil...I couldnt resist!
Just remember I was repeating what the crayfish guy said. LOL
Gee whiz, guys, thanks for the vote of confidence on the fin explanations! It sure is enjoyable reading everyone's answers here every week because I always pick up a new way of doing something or a new perspective that is beneficial to my career as a dead fish handler.
Anyway, I forgot to mention something about adipose fins:
Adipose fins, being that they are at the rear of the center of gravity, would theoretically serve a purpose as a rudder or stabilizer. Since the fish has no effective means of contolling them (i.e., no ray or muscle/tendon supported rays) they would not be used as a rudder. However, they can be used to provide increased surface area at that region and therefore can be theorized to function as a stabilizer. You could actually say that the water environment has more control of the fin than the fish does, but just being there on the fish provides some degree of stabilization during locomotion.
If you look at the adipose fin from the perspective of ichthyological classification, you'd see that they appear on those fish that are certainly not the least advanced and certainly not the most advanced. They are on fish that tend to have a longer than deeper body profile ratio and that are considered to have a hit-and-run feeding style. One could almost theorize that it is the precursor to a soft rayed dorsal fin that show up in more advanced bony fishes.
The advantage of a fish to have rays in its fins and supporting tendon and muscle structure is beneficial for coordinated movement of those rays so that the fish can make precise movements in slow water. It is kind of cool to watch them make subtle movements in slow water by fanning the rearmost rays of the anal and soft dorsal fin way to opposite sides and for those fin movements to be coordinated with the movements of the stabilizers at the front of the fish (pelvics and pectorals).
I just spit my hot coco out of my mouth! I just was watchimhg the vidoe we took out in the MT and WY I have to get you a copy this week!
MAn it has been a world win as of late! So Uncle F'n Dave My hats off to you sir! You alsway make me a better taxidermist!
Rick
Uncle Dave can you come out more and play? That was some great info that really makes for what the questions are all about. I'm still learning too much to jump into this as I really feel that I'm not worthy. In time. But boy that was some great stuff and think about it, he's already did the trail and error so just give his methods a try and you should end up with a better fish. Thanks Rick and Dave. P.S. I like bagels better.
I just had to poke at you!Im from the deep south...I didnt even know what a scone was!LOL...a good Sunday morning question...dont ya think?
Scones! We doin't need no stinken Scones! LOL!
Rick Krane
1. How much should you go up in price and when should you do it? How do you determine how much and how do you introduce it?
I go up every other year. I some times go up in 50 cent or 1 dollar amounts.
2. How do you know when a fish is dry, Bass and salmon?
When the bass has a hard tongue. When the salmon stops feeling tacky for a week.
3. How do you go about making your vermiculation on your brookies and Lakers? How do you determine what they will look like and how to make the colors look real to you?
Don't do a lot I would like to hear you do them Rick so send me your answer ok.
4. One or the other...as a beginner what would you really want to ask a pro? As a Pro what would you like to tell a beginner?
I'm no pro but I have been doing this for 8years. I would say stay at it for a while it gets easier.
5. How do you make teeth on a fish or a reproduction look real? How do you do it and what do you use?
With silicone
6. What color yellow do you use the most and why?
Candy yellow. I like that it can be bright and semi dark if you put enough on.
7. Do you paint with other mediums of color other than traditional airbrush paint? If yes what are they and how do you use them?
I have used charcoals before to make shadows. I have tried your powders but I still need to get use to when to use them. Maybe you can write me and tell me more.
8. What is the purpose of each fin on a fish? Describe what they do and why? How does it apply to taxidermy?
To help it swim? With out them on the fish it doesn't look right? I really don't know Rick! I'm glad you and Uncle Dave are out there.
9. Do you tip your fish? How do you go about this part of painting?
Only if I get good service! LOL I really do tipping and I do it with a fine brush and I like the treasure gold wax I know you don't but I have so much of it.
Bonus Question
10. You just got your first really big salmon or Muskie size fish in. It is the biggest fish you have ever had brought to you. Remember this day? Tell us what you felt and how you feel now about it? What are some things that may help some one who will get a big fish in some day? I remember I was scared to do it. I ended up buying a body because I didn't think I could carve it on my own. I have since learned it is all about the same just bigger.
Extra bonus question. If you were to go to a county fair and have your work judges what kind of a scone would you bring the Judge? I think raspberry if he didn't like my fish and blueberry if he did that way I can eat what ever he didn't like. How's that?
I really mean it thank you Rick and I don't know who Uncle Dave is but thank you too! Man you guys really now your stuff.
If you look to the great North west and find the light shinning on a shop in Tacoma you will find a mad fisherman who can master the head the tail the whole dame thing (sorry al little bit of Capt Qwint) Dave Campbell is a real gift to fish taxidermy and one of the most knowledgeable people and a good friend you could ever know! Make soem pretty darn great fish repros too!
Rick Krane
Anglers Artistry
1) I usually raise my prices in January because fish business is slow. It picks up early spring. I raise rates in even dollar amounts about every other year, sooner if I start getting customers who tell me that the reason they chose me is I was the cheapest one they found. I try to be average or high in price, never low.
2) Bass are dry in my shop in about 10 days after they pass the odor test. Salmons about the same. Muskies and Pike I allow 3 weeks. I keep the shop dehumidifier running or air conditioner throughout the year and also utilize a fan.
3) I thin the paint and cut air pressure down and paint very lightly over the visible patterns, maybe two or three times till I get the desired color/effect that I want.
4) I would tell a beginner that patience is truly a vertue that you cannot afford to be without.
5) I like Epo-Grip. I have also used tooth picks for Pike.
6) I use golden yellow and bright yellow the most for the type fish that I do.
7) I use powder paints, pencils, markers, gold,silver,copper waxes.
9) I tip after fish is painted with finger waxes.
10) The first big fish was a state record hybrid striper. I remember feeling a little nervous because I knew that the fish would be seen and scrutinized a lot more than average. My first Muskie was a bit of a challenge skinning and mounting. Now I get excited to do big fish because of the challenge. Now I have the right sized tools for big fish as well as mounting stands and painting stands. The bigger the better. Size matters!
Guys, thanks again for the vote of confidence, and again I always look forward to getting wiser by reading everything all of you write. Being amongst a bunch of fellow fish afficianados is an enjoyable proposition.
Hey Rick, was that hot cocoa tasty enough to lick up after you spit it out? LOL!
1. When I started the norm was UNDER $1 per inch. You actually didn't find much variation in prices for a long time. SinceI was part time for many years I just tried to keep even. Now I try to keep myself at least $2 an inch above my nearest competator. It keeps the "riff raff" out of the shop!
2. If the fish feels cool to the touch, moisture is still evaporating. When the fish feels the same as my benches or the wall I'm pretty sure it's dry.
3. I've never seen a laker with vermiculations. Lots of spots that are even visable on the belly, but no vermiculations. On brookies the lighter colored background is put on first and the darker pattern is applied over it. Maybe I'm not doing it right, but I've never had a complaint from a client. The pattern is usually still on the skin and I "wing it" on the ones that fade out, that's where REFERENCE is invaluable.
4. For beginners. Learn your airbrush so you can paint in your sleep.
5. Resin and cabasil seems to be the main one I use. But I relaly don't have a real preference, whatever is on hand will do the job.
6. Golden yellow(Lifetone). I've used it as my main yellow for so long I really don't know why. I guess it has a little more life to it than cadmium yellow.
7. I use some of the rub on waxes, but since I don't do many trout where they are more applicable, I've never messed with the other mediums other than some bronzing powders. The current selections of paints incorporate so many of the metalic and irridescent colors into them they're all I really need, so the bronzing powders are in a drawer somewhere.
8.It's pretty much been covered above. For my mounts I like to have all the fins with a gentle curve rather than a FLAT fin. Fish have a very fluid feel to them and the curved fins give a mount life and motion.
9. Where applicable I tip them. primarily the salmonids. I usually do it with a small artists brush and fairly early in the painting process.
10. Someone gave me a huge salmon back around 1970 and I did it with the "sand fill" method. I'll never forget that disaster.
Bonus At a county fair the judge wouldn't know a nice fish mount from his &%$, A small bottle of Jim Beam would be more effective.