Boar Shoulder Mount

Submitted by J.L. Mooney on 9/2/00. ( roadwarrior@aol.com ) 205.188.209.202

Just finished skinning another boar. Is there an easier way. I use a beam, necker knife, blood sweat and tears.

I also have a foredom flesher, but it tends to get a little messy.
any Info will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, J.L. Mooney

Return to Category Menu


easer way

This response submitted by robin on 9/2/00. ( Flatwoodsman1 ) 152.163.189.105

hi ther no ther is no easy way to do boar heads i do them by hand and use dry preservative by [a supply company] taxidermy iv had no trouble with this method i use 3 inch scapel blades i get about 450 to 500 ahead but depends on size good luck email if any problems


Thanks

This response submitted by J.L. Mooney on 9/2/00. ( roadwarrior904@aol.com ) 152.163.188.195

Hey Robin,

Thanks for the response, take care J.L. Mooney




Try an Ulu

This response submitted by George Roof on 9/2/00. ( georoof@aol.com ) 205.188.209.141

JL,
I usually use my round knife to do all that callous forming work. I just put a splash shield in front of the blade and let the blade do the hard work. If you prefer to do it by hand, try an ulu knife. It's a quarter round blade that's handle is through the blade that the Eskimos use for muktuk. It is a super knife for bears and boars since only one side is sharpened. You can just scrape the fat off with it. John Rinehart has them in his catalog and they run around $15. Buy a good Arkansas stone and honing oil while you're at it though. Hog hair does a job on a keen edge.


sharp knife

This response submitted by Ron V. on 9/4/00. ( Ronmountone @cs.com ) 205.188.208.45

beamming knife, necker knife, ulu knife,anything will work good once you get used to it. Just make sure it is razer sharp. You will probably need to sharpen your knife 2 or 3 times before you finnish.If it takes you more than 45 minutes to do a large hog. then your knife is not sharp enough.


SCAPEL

This response submitted by Wayne S. on 9/6/00. ( stanjr@bcsnet.net ) 63.65.4.133

J.L.
I have found if you take a drywall screw and just catch the corner of the hide and drill into the table this will hold the hide in place so it won't move around. Then take a #22 scapel blade or larger and start at the corner with the drywall screw in it, this will allow you to remove this plateing all at one time. And it just takes a few minutes to remove. Hope this will help you.


Return to Category Menu