Boar questions...

Submitted by Darrell on 5/14/01. ( )

Doing my first boar shoulder mount and have a few questions on the process:

1) I have heard that boar hides are very stretchable, but what can I realistically expect to get stretch wise? I ask this because the particular form for the pose I want to use is 2 1/2" bigger than the actual hide neck measurement. Can I expect this to work?

2) On ordering the jawsets, I see with tusks and without tusks. Does this mean that the without tusks jawset can use the real tusks from the boar? If so, does the Mohr jawset have slots to insert the real tusks or do they have to be drilled?

3) I have not seen any reference pictures for boar eyes and the eyes I have seen in the catalogs appear to be round pupils. Is there a true way to set the eyes or does it matter since they are round?

4) Are there ear liners for the ears or do they just get bondo? (The tapes I have show bondo)

5) I see these replacement noses in the catalogs. Are these used instead on the actual nose or if the nose is damaged? If so, how are they attached to the hide skin?

Thanks for any responses.

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This response submitted by George on 5/14/01. ( )

I've never found hog hide to be any more stretchable than other hides and certainly not the 2 1/2 inches you are looking for.

As this is your first, I'd suggest that you go to people who specialize in boar forms. Rick Carter and supply Mike Noonkester Supply are as good as it gets and you can get them from WASCO or supply Mike Noonkester Supply Supply. Buy the eyes they sell and their jawsets. They will fit the forms like a glove and eliminate a lot of work. I like Noonkesters teeth as you can adjust their length to the hunters whims. Both suppliers supply the sets fully stained and painted to also help you out. The IQ Boar eyes almost set themselves, but you still need good reference pictures to build the eyebrows and construct the preorbital areas. Noonkester sells the pictures as well. Also the tongues in these two suppliers look more realistic than the rubber of Mohr. In the hands of the masters, the Mohr products may be great, but hackers like myself can find their work much easier if they use products designed by specialists.


This response submitted by Bill Gaither on 5/14/01. ( )


As usual, there is little I can add to a reply by George, but one thing to consider about boar tusks is that they are never as long as the Snuffy Smith hawgs. Boars, and sows, for that matter who live in swamp and other soft soil habitats have longer tusks than those who have do root in harder soils. The worst thing about the hundreds of boar mounts I have seen is a natural tusk set so that the gum/root line is exposed. You will notice, if you chop out the tusks, the root is hollow and quite thin at the base, and subject to breakage if you do not handle it carefully. Where the fully formed tusk is exposed above the gum line, there is a girdle, below which the tusks is slimmer. Artificial tusks do not display this feature and look more natural if three or four inch tusks are "natural". The actual tusks are much longer than the exposed tips. I used to cap them and mount them on a small placque, or hang them European style for my clients and throw that in as a bonus, since I always used artificial tusks.


This response submitted by George on 5/14/01. ( )

LOL Bill, Good one about Snuffy,
The nose jobs I missed. You attach them to the form and then epoxy the skin up to the edges and then meld them together with epoxy putty. Personally, I think the fake noses fit right up there with fake turkey heads as they have no hairs on them and I ain't into the transplanting business. Conversely, many people feel they are superior to the real ones. When you install it, you have to Dremel out a channel so that the teeth set can fit and make a smooth transition.

Shave that nose skin down......

This response submitted by Bill Gaither on 5/14/01. ( )

I shave the inside of the snout as thin as possible and then put a blob of english ball clay into it and form it until it looks right to me. Artificial noses look alright, but like silicone implants, the real McCoy puts em to shame everytime.

English ball clay is a water softened sculpting clay used to make fine porcelain clay more plastic. It is actually a fine blue clay from streambeds in England. "Blue rock", the blue-gray hard clay found in the beds of Kentucky streams is nearly the same. There is almost no shrinkage of ball clays from moist to dry......that is why I use it. I get mine from ceramic supply houses. EPK...(Edgar Plastic Kaolin) is just about as good if the supplier you contact doesn't have the English clay.

Dualing Curmudgeons

This response submitted by don't want it to count on 5/15/01. ( )

I love when you guys try to one-up the other. I'd personally pay for the opportunity to watch a curmudgeon live discussion. Any way we can get you in the same venue in a pay-per-view event.

The T.

Hey "T"

This response submitted by Bill Gaither on 5/15/01. ( )

I love it when someone throw a dig at others, rather than a suggestion. The man asked a question, George addressed it. I added a thread about the tusks. George picked up on the snout and replied to that. I told the guy how I did the snouts, not to one up George, but to, in my mind, re-inforce what George had said and to let the guy knows what works for me. One reply leads to another thought. I want to thank you for your valuable contribution


This response submitted by Leanna on 5/15/01. ( )

Just to be one up on BOTH George and Bill, I'm going to answer a few. LOL. The reference pics George speaks of show excellant detail on the wrinkles around a boars eyes. Make them wrinkly. The uglier the better. Make the eyes weep out that nasty fluid and make the nostrils drippy as well.

Also the Rick Carter earliners are very nice. WASCO and Noonie both sell them...I just wish when George and Bill answered this post they would have been more thorough in their responses!

And have fun Darrell, boar are pretty easy and I enjoy putting them together. The finishing work is a good time as well.

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