Epo Grip

Submitted by Hoop on 3/13/02. ( WJTAXIDERM@aol.com )

I think it was George who recently mentioned using epo grip to set antler pins. Since I'm ready to do that I think I will use epo grip instead of bondo or dura glass. I was thinking of using Buckeye Supreme on most of the mount as I have on just about everything that I have mounted, but decided to try epo grip on the face, eyes,nose and lips. What is the average working time and how is the clean up on Epo Grip?

Thanks, Hoop

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Four real time hours.

This response submitted by JOhn C on 3/13/02. ( )

Room temp I get four real time hours. You can extend the working time by cooling either a or b. You can extend it futher by having the room cooler.

Did a deer in 2001 on Sunday, using EPO-GRIP hide adhesive. finishe about 2 in the afternoon, our temps were very cool that year and the overnite low dropped to 36.f about +2 C. everything was where I wanted it the next morning I did my final checks a little taxi work, checked the mount for air bubbles, Heated teh shop to 70f and by NOON it was set, finished the mount Wednesday Tuesday PM left for show Wednesday early am, less than 72 hours latter it was in a show, the mount still has not drummed.

Instructions come with it, they tell you to do the face and antler areas first. The mix another batch for the body.

The setting time can be excellerated by heating one part then mixing it.

One thing I love about this is you can clean ip up very easily with Lacquer thinner, its goes on like margarine. I use it on the face of small mammals. Have not tried it on fish yet but its going to happen.


This response submitted by George on 3/13/02. ( georoof@aol.com )

There are several different types of Epo-Grip. The antler pins should be set with #30 paste or Clear Paste. The earliners done with Liquid Fast-Set and the hide installed with Hide Adhesive. Each one has a particular and peculiar usage and for optimum results, you should use the right product for the intended purpose.

I get just about 6 good hours out of my hide paste, but I don't mix it until I already have the cape on the mannikin and the thread in the needles. Once the paste is painted on and it is removed from the mixing "pot", the cool hide seems to allow more working time. As John said, however, if it's heated or sits in the pot too long, it only gets quicker. Four hours would be a good standard to strive for.


This response submitted by Hoop on 3/14/02. ( )

for the help. I will give the hide paste and the #30 a try. It seems that a number of people like their products.

Thanks again, Hoop

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