I haven't found the exact answer I'm looking for. I noted several ways that the cape is attached and sewn to the base of the antlers. The way I've done it is with regular 2 part quick set epoxy and then sewing it up. I've also seen that people use epoxy putty and this to me seems much less messy and I'm thinking about trying it. My question though is there are so many different types of adhesives on the market, what brand or type of epoxy putty should I use. Van Dykes has something called KEYpoxy Putty and I'm also looking at some of the Eco Grip brand and don't know which one to use. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Sure there Is nothing wrong with adding epoxie If you want
maybe It'll help keep hide from pulling away from burrs?
Putties are simply two part liquid epoxies with microballoons or fillers added to give them bulk. For every space a molecule of micoballoon or filler covers, that's an area where the adhesive quality of the epoxy is eliminated. I build up around my antler burrs with putty to give a berm for the hide to lie over. Then I tack the inside and bottom edges of the hide to the antler with superglue gel before I sew the burr opening closed on the hide. I push epoxy hide paste up under the hide as I'm working to insure the hide is tacked down completely.
One problem you will have with a deer cape, is the amount of fleshed removed from the antler pedical area.. I use Apoxie Sculpt around these, Epo-Grip 2 part is not a putty, but a very very good hide paste.
Lay your bead of Clay type epoxy around the and under the antler base. Place a big glob of Epo-Grip two part low on the forhead between the eyes, work the skin up and sew your cut from each antler burr, work a glob og glue on each side of the ears and infront of the ears. Finish sewin the cut or close it to about 4 inches. Now go back and work the skin into place around the burrstucking them in deeply at the antler skin union.
Set the ears, work your E-G hide paste around the ear butts and the E-G from between the eyes up and across the for head, around the lower area of the antler base and into your newley sewn seams, then complete the ret of the neck and shoulder.
This way is a lot less messy and once the epoxies set, the skin will never move!
I'm assuming that the Eco-Grip product you are speaking about is the Eco-Grip Hide Adhesive. What is the difference between that and Buckeye Hide Paste? and are you using the hide paste in place of the normal 2 part epoxy? I do understand what both you (John) and George are doing and it seems you both are recommending not to use the putty for the actual adhesive to bond the scull and antlers to the hide. George I understand that you are using a super glue under the antler burrs.
I use it to TACK the hide to the antlers and keep it from twisting. I'm doing the same thing John is in reality.
Buckeye is a refined carpet glue or "contact glue". Epo-Grip Epoxy Hide Paste is a two-part actual epoxy. Epo-Grip DOES sell a water base with similar qualities to Buckeye.
Thanks for the information!
I use Apoxie Sculpt around these, Epo-Grip 2 part is not a putty, but a very very good hide paste.
I put a small roll of Apoxie Sculpt around the burr where the skin will buttup against the antler burr.
After putting the 2 part hide paste where it needs to go on the forhead. Sew the y cut up.
Now work the skin into the putty with a modeling tool this actully tucks the skin into the putty that is used to replace missing meat. use a fine modeling tool for this.
Now work the hide paste up the face around the antler burr and into the seam. Groom the hair make any last minute adjustments to this area.
You will not have touch this are after this its done, no seam repair will ever be needed and you did not have to drive nails tacks or brads into the bone to hold it in place. You will not even have to card the seam or hair.
While this may take a total of ten minutes, which includes sewing. It really saves time and hassle from having to work it later.
I then do the eyes and tear ducts. I do place t pins around them until I am done with the mounting.
Once done and ready to set the head aside to dry, I remove the t pins.
By using the Epo-Grip 2 part, I dont have to go back and make any adjustments over the next week, I dont have to fill any pin holes when finishing as a mater of fact using oil paints for the eyes, nose and lip I can do my finish work three days later.