Got a shop floor question here. I'm sure that someone out there has a taxidermy shop with a concrete floor in it. Did you put a concrete sealer on the floor? I just built a new shop and I'm wondering what salt will do it after a year or two if I don't seal it.I really don't want to seal it because sealer makes the floor slippery when it's wet.Anybody have experience with this type of situation?
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My floor is not sealed. It's holding up pretty good, but it has it's blemishes from over the years from staining and mishaps! Not bad though.
General spot clean up when blood etc find the floor will do. Now when it comes to salting. Well, I personally have put down some vinyl flooring and try and contain salting to this area only. I know in my mind the salt isn't the best thing for the floor and it'll definitely make the floor sweat real bad with temperature changes.
As for being slippery. That's an easy fix. I have "anti fatigue" mats all over the place. They provide a cushioned non slip footing. The beauty of the cement floor is breaking out the water hose for clean up. I assume your floor has a slight taper to floor drains? Works pretty good.
Gotta admit. I've considered sealing the surface but that's just one of the many things I haven't done yet!
When I had My shop built, I had them smooth the concrete well with a bull float. Before I ever did any work in the shop I painted the floor with gray deck paint. I have only had to repaint it once in 11 years. It is not slippery when wet, and cleans easily with a hose. The salt has not affected the concrete.
Appreciate the responses. When you spend $1,100 on concrete, it doesn't hurt to ask a few questions.
PS, and it has floor drains also.
I keep the salt right out of my shop. I have a seperate room, well, out building, for salt. Everything in your shop will soon have salt corrosion or sweating if you dont. Just a suggestion. Also, Im guilty of never having gotten around to sealing the floor.
I'm not a taxidermist but I am looking into attending a school. Anyways try truck box liner paint. It just paints on with a roller. It repells salt and all kinds of grim not to mention it is anti slip! hope this helps. If anyone knows of any good schools or is looking for a helper where i can learn please e-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org I live in Manitoba, Canada but am willing to go anywhere. Thanks all.
put down a vapor barrier between the ground and the concrete, it's gonna sweat anyway.
We didnt put plastic down, and mine doesnt sweat. The first year it was cold, but after it cured good I havent had a problem. Maybe climate matters? Some guys around here say NOT to put a vapor barrier down. Im confused, anyway.
As a concrete finisher for the last 20 years and a part time taxidermist for the last 6 years, call your local concrete ready mix plant. Ask them what they would recommend. I have talked to some 50 year veterans about this, and they said that you could use a paint and put sand in it, and roll it on. One other option--a shop vac.
What brand of paint did you use on your floor. I tried some, exactly as directions said and it only lasted a year.
That I used was purchased in 5 gallon buckets at a military surplus store. It is labeled Haze gray exterior deck paint, #55-10302=78 the guy at commando Joe's said it is what they use on Heilo pads on destroyers. I do Not know if that is a fact. But it is good quality. and reasonably priced. $35.00 for 5 gallons
Sealing it or painting it like tenbears did WILL be better, even if just the lesser amount of dust and wear and tear.
I got the same response as here, about 50/50. I have shopped the paint at Lowes and Home Depot, I am still confused as are many on floor coatings.
Etching with muratic acid is part of the directions on most. I too have tried the 2 part epoxies, single part enamels, etched, not etched, all have peeled over the years.
Maybe the newer stuff advertised for car garages is better, its available in several color and with color chips.
Priced commercial grade vinyal and that running arounf 700 bucks installed.
One option thats even pricier is urethane 2 part floor coverings. The company brings an etching machine in, machine blast the floor, then mixes their product spreads it and 24 hours later you have a 1/4 to 3/8th inch thick floor covering , acid proof, water proof, oil and gasoline proof. But $4000. for a 20 x 20 area.
Tear down your shop and possibly your house, and put down that sheet of plastic. Yeah, I think that's a good idea. ha ha
Possibly it is a "climate" thing. We don't do it here in Minnesota (the vapor barrier) either. Jeff turned his beloved attached garage into my shop, vented heat and air out to it, and I've had no sweaty floors. HOWever. I have oft wished my floors were painted/sealed for that finished neat look, but it's one of those expenses that are put at the bottom of my "least of our concern" list. (A new computer even came before that, lol.) I just regress to the memories the paint stains, epoxy droppings, bondo wads, and hide glue glop drops bring me of my previous lovelorn mounts. Dang. I've even TRIPPED over a big dried up gloop of bondo! Yes I sweep, but I think I'll get back to the stuck dried gop of bondo after I sweep and then forget.
Talk about digressing. No Bazie, mines not sealed.
Use spray booth coating on your floors.Pour it on the floor,use an extention handle and roll it on.It will stay for a long time.When it gets worn down,peal it off and re coat.I have been doing painting for 15 years and we use this all the time.