I can:
- peel it right off my clothes
- peel it right off my bare fingers
I observed:
- anything that gets stuck to the mannequin will peel the stuff right off the mannequin - and the mannequin has been scraped completely free of "mould release"
- it feels like Elmer's "professional" white glue, but it's pink and smells good and is a little more viscous
Am I doing something wrong here? Shouldn't this stuff actually bond things? Like, at least paper or skin?
It is a brand new container, just opened this morning, which was never frozen or otherwise abused.
Or is this stuff just seriously weak?
I mean should I trust mounting animals with this stuff (I do NOT want drumming) or should I get a new hide paste?
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Why would you peel it off? Are you allowing it to dry on the form before mounting?
I have used it, the glue works well for tanned skins, its reactive to DP's and spray tan.
Do you have a clue how water based hide paste works? Wanna try some real space age glue? Try dextrine. The idea is to LET IT DRY, Hotshot.
Fur,
Call me at 800-888-2467 we will be glad to address any concern about our products. Our waterbase hide adhesive has had very good success in the industry, including success in national and world competitions. We appreciate your concerns, and will gladly supply you with the information you need.
I used it on a black bear rug shell, and saw it pulled away from it. Not trying to bash anyone, but want to tell it like it is.
Buckeye is far superior in my book, even dextrine works better.
Jim
I'm not trying to bash anyone either, but that last remark of yours HAS to have some reply as it will be archived. That's the DUMBEST remark I've heard in years. Buckeye is certainly a good product, but to say that dextrine is better than anything INCLUDING spit is about as dumb as dirt can get.
Go to wally world and pick up some latex caulk for $.88
a tube,pump several into old gallon container,stir with
electric drill while adding small amount of water to
thin consistancy a little.This works just as good as
anything and also makes mounting easier because it gives
you more time to move the skin around.After all it only
has to hold it until the skin dries,then its not going
no where.It won't drum .You still have to watch for a
couple days but thats par for doing a good mount.
The Epo-Grip water based hide paste works great for me every time I use it. Water based paste takes a while to absorb into the hide and if the mannikin is scratched well you shouldn't have a problem. Epo-Grip water paste is not designed for making rugs. That application will not give you an accurate assessment of how the product works. I used Epo-Grip water-based adhesive on the deer that won at the Nationals this year.
Epo-Grip hide paste is one of the finest water based products on the market. I've used it for two years now and never had any problems. I use it on my comercial work as well as my competion work. If your having a problem it is your doing something wrong and you should be calling Steve for answers to those problems.
with it also. I used a tanned hide. It was setting up before I could even get it the hide on the form. Maybe humidity and temp play a factor in it? Don't know. I'll stick with the two-part Epo-Grip. BP
Well I can remember when Steve first contacted me about a hide paste he was working on. I told him then that I would try anything unless it bet Buckeye's supreme's hide paste. I was a firm beliver in the product. Well after a year of testing Steve called me and said they have this pretty well done and would you now like to try it out.
He explained to me that I won't need any pinning, nothing just mount it. Now for one thing if your planing on doing any kind of mount that has curls and rolls you do need a lose skin but usually you need to pin. So I took the bait and got a gallon of it.
I mount a bear that was the second largest cinammon bear in Pa. The client wanted to have an open mouth and snarling. So after altering the form and giving it so great muscle texture I painted on this great smelling milkshake stuff on the form. Now I didn't pin a thing at all. I left it as is, didn't even check it to see if it was drumming or pulled away. After a week and a half I check out the mount. Not a one thing pulled or moved.
So what does this prove, nothing in some folks eyes but in mine when I don't have to pin and relly check on a mount every day, I can a heck of a lot more done knowing a product will hold.
I will agree that it will pull away from the manikin, ofcouse I take half of it with the hide and glue.
Sorry to say but if you don't follow directions or not sure what to do, just give Steve a call and he can give advise on whatever your problem is. There are time where something can go wrong but if we don't let Steve know what's happening he can't fix it. So call him.
I used this stuff on some custom made forms and once dry, the stuff is like a shield. Very strong. I suspect it will give a great result once used to mount skins.
I was following the directions, and all my skins are tanned.
I was peeling it off my clothes and skin because it was dry.
The only negative I can say so far is, it is sold in wide mouth screw top containers, and if ANY glue gets in the threads... no way to get it open again without cutting the top off the bottle. What a pain in the arse. I had an empty flip-top container available so I just poured the cut-open containers' worth into that. Sell it in squeeze bottles maybe?
Will post an update once skins are mounted.
Here's an unrelated tip for all you fellow hot-shots:
Gorilla Glue is a type of UA foam. Similar to that used in forms and packing materials. You can mix Gorilla Glue with a few drops of water inside a container, stir very vigorously, and come back in about 6 hours and have some great foam waiting, to repair your mannikins with - and NO FUMES, non-hazardous.
Fur you can get the product in gallon units with snap down lid. The quart size is mostly for hobbiest and those who want to sample the product.
Heres a tip when using Epo-Grip Waterbase adhesive. Take an old bondo squeegee and pink the flexible edge and dog ear one corner for detail areas. Use this tool to apply the waterbase glue. It will give you an even layer of product and the proper amount with little waste. If the product starts to dry to quickly, it wants to work. Spritz a little water on the glue and mannikin. Its best not to apply the glue until its ready to accept the cape. Using a fan the glue should pretty much set in about 24 hours or with no fan about 3 days. Bag the mount if you need more time for adjustments.
I had to remount the deer as the E-G Water base set like right now! I have never seen anything set that fast. So I did peel the hide off, and it was not easy. Then rethink how to mount the deer with DP (Bessmaid, I like the smell) anyway I mounted the deer four inches at a time, using the EPO-Grio Strawberry Milkshake Glue, IT stuck the hide immediatly again, but I worked a little slower with less glue/hide exposure until I had the four inches of hide ready, it worked very well, no drumming and its still fine.
I got the animal mounted.
The pH of the skin was high neutral, probably 6.5 to 7, not acid.
The glue wanted to work immediately. I could only slide the skin around for about an hour.
The skin was soaking wet when mounted so I know it wasn't a water or lack thereof issue.
I got the glue in the fur, but it groomed out once dry.
There was a serious need to pin. Lots of pins. The only part on the animal that did not need to be pinned was that little spot right under the nose.
I had to pin all the valleys and all the hills.
Now that the animal is half dry though I do not see any drumming.
So, all is well, the fur isn't all gluey, and the skin isn't all drummed, the animal does not look retarded, and I'll get my pins back eventually.
Hi Steve,
Was wondering where to buy Ear Magic,I called McKenzie's the other day they said they didn't carry it,looked in some other catalogs and couldn't find it,I here great things about this stuff and would like to try it, thanks, Jeff S.,Ps Fred,How's Vacation?LOL!